Search results matching tags 'quilting' and 'binding'

LaRueSews-Quilts-Be Your Own Judge

LaRueJ — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:00:00 GMT

This has been a busy month. We recently went to Nashville again to sign a contract on a Motor Home that we saw last month. It’s like new, though used, and really beautiful. We will get it the first week of December.

Also, my sewing machine has been back to the factory, or wherever disobedient sewing machines go. It has had ongoing problems for a long time. It is only a year and a half old, so it shouldn’t have given me so much trouble. It was gone for three or four weeks. I haven’t used it yet, but I hope it is OK now.

I have been thinking that I should talk about hand stitching and finishing a quilt. Some time ago, I had a lesson on the things that judges look for when they are judging a quilt show. It was really interesting and taught me how to finish my own quilt to make them the best I know how. A few months ago, I found a list of rules on a forum. A member of the Colorado Quilt Commission posted it. It was helpful to me, I hope it is helpful to you.

- Piecing: Precise general construction; comers and points match; stitches do not show; thread color is appropriate - Applique: Securely attached without puckers; curves are smooth and points are sharp; stitching is even; dark fabrics don't shadow under light

- Hand quilting: Stitches are even and consistent, front and back; no visible knots or backstitches; no pleats or bubbles on front or back - Machine quilting: Tension is balanced; stitches are even and consistent; stops and starts are not obvious; no pleats or bubbles or distortion of top

- Amount of quilting: Sufficient and appropriate for design of top and batting type; consistency maintained throughout.

- Borders: Construction well executed with straight seams; no ripples, puckers, or stretching; comers precise.

- Finishing: Binding is well executed and consistent width; stitching is secure; comers are square; edges are straight; batting extends to outer edge of binding - Special techniques: (Embroidery, tying, embellishments, beading, overlays, trapunto, photos, etc.) Secure, neat, and effectively executed - Visual impact: Line, shape, color, texture, and value effectively used to produce an interesting, balanced, and well-proportioned design.

- Quilting pattern: Complements the top design, fills the spaces well.

- General appearance: Neat and clean; no visible markings, lint, soil, pet hair, odor, or stains; no obvious distortion or sewing problems.

In learning what judges are interested in finding while judging, it has made me more aware of the things that I do with my quilts. It is especially important to me to see that my hand stitching is done well. In applying the binding, it is also important to make the seam allowance big enough that it fills the space of the binding, not leaving a dead space at the edge of the binding. Not everyone wants to enter a quilt show, but it's nice to know the rules, so you can make your own quilts that will please you now and others for years to come.

One thing that is a bit hard to learn is how to make the binding fit the quilt so that the quilt lays flat and doesn’t’ have rippley edges. The amount of tension of the binding strip while you apply the binding is the secret. If you apply a slight tension to the binding as you sew it along the edge of the quilt, the binding and the edge of the quilt will lie flat. After applying the binding, it is a good idea to pin the binding before stitching and then lay the quilt out on the floor or other flat surface. If the edges are bumpy or rippley, it is not too late to go back and correct the problem. I know, I know, you are saying “THAT MEANS FROG STITCHES!” Yup, Frog Stitches are those little buggers that just have to be RIPPED OUT and replaced. ”Rip-it, rip-it". It’s worthwhile in the long run, when it’s all finished and you know you have Done it well. Be your OWN judge. If your quilt pleases you, it will please anyone who sees it.

Now, on to the continuing saga of LaRueSews, Block of the Month this time the block is the Log Cabin Block. I am giving you the patterns with very little instruction. Just be sure that each of your blocks measure 12 ½ inches, each. In the finished quilt, each block will measure 12 inches, because of the construction of the quilt.

This picture is another of the finished blocks from my current project, Not anywhere Near Baltimore, A Prairie Version.

I just thought of a question to get you commenting on LaRueSews. Just a little curiosity on my part. If you have been following LaRueSews-Quilts for some time, what keeps you coming back for more.

Happy Thanksgiving

Stitches To You,

LaRue

LaRueSews-Quilts-Binding Isn’t the End

LaRueJ — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 15:30:00 GMT

The subject matter this time is probably one of the “testiest” that I have approached. We are nearing the end of making a quilt from start to finish. Adding the bind is the best part, right up to stitching down the binding on the back. The photos I am using were made while I was finishing this quilt for my grand daughter. She plays the piano, and the wall hanging was a gift for her 8th grade graduation. That quilt is shown here.

First, decide the width of the binding you like. It is common to make a 1/4inch or ½ inch binding. Next, decide between a very durable, double layer of fabric on the edge, called French or double binding. Or choose to make a single binding which has only one layer of fabric on the edge of the binding. Since I have been making quilts regularly, I have used the double binding, simply because it will last a long time with much use and many washings. As a general rule, you can plan to cut your binding strips about six times the width of the finished binding, plus 1/8th in. That extra 1/8th inch is just a little extra assurance that the binding will cover the entire seam. I nearly always use a ½ inch binding. I just like the look of a generous binding on the edge of my quilts. Many people prefer a 1/4 inch binding. It is entirely personal preference. As an example of cutting strips for ½ inch binding, you would cut strips 3 1/8 inches wide. It is also personal preference whether you cut the binding strips on the straight grain or on the bias grain of the fabric. However, If you decide to cut strips on the straight grain, be sure to cut the strips crosswise of the fabric, or from selvage to selvage. The reason is that there is a very slight stretch in the crosswise grain and that leaves just a bit of ease when applying the binding. I wanted a ½ inch finished binding.

In the photos I am using for this blog, I have cut fabric on the bias of the fabric because I like the look of the diagonal printed dots of the fabric better than the straight-line dots. Borders are not normally cut on the bias because of the stretching that occurs with bias. In this case, the bias border is strictly a design choice. Thinking ahead in all aspects of quilting proves to turn out a better product. Visualizing the end product is very helpful. Cutting the border is shown in photo

Note: If you are interested in learning more about cutting borders on the bias, contact me by email and I will help you, or make a note in comments.

The book All In One Quilter’s Reference Tool* I recommended in an earlier blog is very clear about helping to determine the amount of fabric needed for the size of your quilt. After cutting the correct amount of strips, it is time to join all the strips into a long continuous strip of fabric. I recommend joining the strips on the bias to reduce bulk at the joining seamlines. Layer the strips perpendicular to each other, right sides together. Sew the seam across the diagonal. Trim the seam to 1/4 inch. Next, go to the iron, and press the strip in the lengthwise center. This bias strip is normally several yards long.

Square up the quilt, and trim edges. If you own a walking foot, it’s a great tool for sewing binding. Because of the kind of hopping motion of a walking foot, the top binding layers are not pushed forward against the quilt body as you sew. Sew the cut edge of the binding to the quilt edge, using ½ in. seam allowance. Sew the binding to the front of the quilt. It will be turned to the back for finishing. Lay the binding evenly along the cut edge of the quilt. Begin stitching in the center on one side of the quilt. Mark the center point of the side where you want to begin and end. I usually begin at the center of the bottom edge. Start sewing about 6 inches from the center and leaving a 12 to 18 inch “tail” of binding strip before you begin. Sew with ½ inch seam, evenly. To make miter corners, sew toward the corner, stopping at ½ inch before the end of the seam. Pivot the quilt one quarter turn to the left and backstitch off the edge of the quilt. Continue sewing all the way around the quilt, mitering corners and stopping about 12 inches from where you began. That will leave a space of about 12 inches between and beginning and ending of the strips.

At this point, I’m going to be brutally honest with you and tell you that making a mitered seam at the joining point of the binding is TRICKY. If you are not a mathematician or engineer, you may need a lot of practice. Hang in there . . . It is one of the most satisfying parts of making a quilt. The first time you make a really nice a mitered joining of a quilt binding is great. I checked some of my quilts, looking for a joining that would show up in a photo, but I couldn’t find one that isn’t invisible. (No brag, just fact). The older quilts were sewn in any way I could figure out at the time, with marginal success. BTW. *The book mentioned above has good instruction for joining the binding.

Note: I try to remember some of the things that I have heard that quilt judges look for when judging quilts in a show. One important one that they do check is that they look at the binding carefully to see if the seam allowance inside of the binding “fills” the binding. In other words, make sure that you have made the seam so that when the binding is turned to the back, there is no empty space in the edge of the binding. It’s not very visible until you look close or feel the edge with your fingers, but it is one of the signs of a quality quilt. The details make a difference.

At the end fold each piece of binding strip toward the center of the side, meeting with folds at the center mark. Place a pin at each fold to mark the meeting point. Don’t cut the strip ends yet! Open out the folded strip ends and mark a 45 degree angle on the inside of the binding, centering the 45 degree angle at the pin-marked strip. Pin the seam lines together and check to make sure that your mitered ending fits together nicely. Marking in the right direction on poth ends can be confusing. Make any adjustment to the seamlines now, if needed. Sew the seamline together. When you are sure it’s all fitting well, now you can use the scissors and trim to 1/4 inch.

Now that you have sewn the binding to the quilt, check the seam all the way around to see if there any visible places that you need to change or adjust (what is mean here is mistakes) Giggles here are allowed. When you are satisfied with the results, it’s time to stitch down the binding on the back of the quilt. Turn the binding to the back of the quilt. In the past I have used pins to hold the binding down while I stitch. However, a really neat and easy tricks is to use spring hair clips to hold the binding in place while stitching.

This brings us to the end of the quilt we’ve worked on all these months. This is assuming that you HAVE been making a quilt. In the future, I have a few other things
to talk about, like a neat way to make half square triangles, some applique, and making a quilt label. Last time I asked for your input about topics for future LaRueSews subjects. I didn’t get any response. I would really like to continue writing, but without some feedback from you I will not know what interests you.

Last time I said I would include a photo of the quilt I gave to Kasey, my oldest granddaughter to take with her to college. It began as a retreat mystery quilt, last September and turned into her college quilt. It is proof that I can make a whole quilt from my stash. She liked it a lot.

I would also like to tell you some great places to get good quilt fabric. Check out this link one. IMHO it is the best fabric web site I know. eQuilter.com

Keep quilting and meet me here in two weeks.

Stitches to you,
LaRue