Ann The Gran Community

Hi Marlene

Thanks for that.  I have now had a really good read and understand the topic much better!  What I find so difficult is the fact that I live in the UK and some of the products vary so much.  I have never used the spray adhesive yet - but I plan to give them a try. (See No More Sticky Hoops discussion - http://www.annthegran.com/cs/forums/t/871.aspx ).

At the moment, I am trying to find stabilisers that work - I so wish there was one thing that suited all!  I have had a bad experience using polyester Duchess Satin - possibly because the stitching was too dense.  I see everyone recommending ATG stabiliser but have no idea if there is a UK equivalent.  I read that it is impossible to over stabilise then read to use less stabiliser on light fabrics and more on heavy fabrics!  I have tried sewing this fabric with one, two and three layers of tearaway and even added water soluable to the top but still haven't go to grips with it.  Removing stabiliser is something else again!  Non of it seems easy to remove from around the stitching - tear away or adhesive, particularly without cutting or breaking jump stitches.  I have lost count of the number of ruined projects because the embrodiery has started to unravel when I disturbed the underneath stitches, removing stabiliser.  I agree with Pat when she says that this is one of the most frustrating/challenging things about ME.  Is there a stabiliser than can be left in place without it altering the appearence of the work, does anyone know?  Sorry, if I digress - I just hoped to be able to draw on your experience.

Thanks Angela 

Hi Angela, There are water soluble sticky stabilizers on the market also. I like the I like the Aqua-Magic Plus. I buy mine from my Husqvarna Viking Dealer. It is great because you can use it on terry cloth and when you remove it, it does not pull the terry.. What is left, you just soak and it dissolves. I only use it on washable items. As for the tear away stabilizer, use lightweight for lightweight fabrics. Maybe use 2 layers. You don't want to use a heavy stabilizer on lightweight fabrics. It will distort the design when you remove it. The rule of thumb is "the denser a design is the more stabilizer you need. As for cutting the bobbin threads, I have never had a problem with that. I have hand towels that I embroidered 14 yrs. ago that are still in tact. Just leave about 1/4 inch of the bobbin thread and it should be fine. You haven't said what machine you own. That could make a difference regarding the bobbin threads. (underneath stitches). I hope you aren't using sticky on everything. Acutally, I hoop most of my designs.

Hope this helps a little,  Marlene

Hi Marlene

Thank you for your help and taking the time to reply.  I have two machines, both of them Brother - The Innovis and the PR650.  I have just done a piece of work on the Innovis and removing the stabiliser resulted in unravelled stitches on a piece of text.  Very frustrating - I had stitched the item three times to get the stabilising right (a full mornings work)! Yesterday I tried the Satin again.  This time I used a less dense design and no stabilser - I just placed a piece of cotton fabric under the work.  I am now going to try the original design using this method.  I am frustrated because I have spent a small fortune buying some designs specifically to make ring and celebratory cushions and I may not be able to use them now.  I did look at altering stitch density in PE design (on my pc) but dont have much idea about doing this - I am not able to do this once it is downloaded to my sewing machines (this feature is unavailable/greyed out).  I think I may need to go back to the digitiser and seek advice.  I am not even sure if I should be altering density or tension - back to the drawing board, I think!

I have to say, stabilisers are a real pain - largely the removal of them.  It makes no difference if they are the sticky type, or not.  I use the adhesive type on fabrics that will be subject to hoop burn or are difficult to hoop.  The rest of the time, I have been using a tearaway.  Now I learn I should be looking for something that tears in both directions - I thought all of it did, anyway!  I rarely use the water soluble (I haven't ventured into terry cloth or lace yet)!

When I studied at university, I always had the feeling that there was just one more piece of knowledge lurking in a book I hadn't found yet and, if I could just find it, it would pull the scales from my eyes.  I have to say, ME makes me feel exactly the same.  There must be someone out there who can tell me the secret of perfect ME, every time.  Sadly, as I found with my degree, there are too many variables and not everything is available to everyone!  Will I ever get to the point where I can just sew, with a reasonable degree of confidence that everything will stitch out OK?  One of the things that does keep me going is the information and help I get from this site and from it's users.  Again, many thanks for your support. 

Regards Angela 

Hi,

I really don't understand why you are using so much sticky stablizer.  The ONLY time I ever use it is when I am hooping something difficult, like a collar, cuffs or a dog collar.

Use a medium weight tear-away in the hoop, don't hoop anything else. Float another peice of stablizer, lay whatever you are doing on the hoop, use a topping and go. I have found that hooping any fabric will distort it, by just laying it down and then use a basting stitch I do not have any distortion at all. 

When you are tearing away a sticky it will rip stitches and distort your fabric, that is why only use it when you have to.

Marge

Angela, from reading your posts I believe you are trying to remove too much of the stabilizer and this is why the threads are getting cut that should be left alone.

A stabilizer does not have to be a commercial product.  You can use a firm weave of fabric.

Try those designs in question on a different type of fabric.

Use a fresh embroidery needle when you begin your project.

Although there are plenty of ideas and suggestions at ATG, I still check out Embroidery Library's Techniques & Tips for tutorials.  http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=techniques

Recommended Stabilizers

 When decorative stitches are sewn into fabric, it is necessary to stabilize that fabric to prevent puckering. For example, when sewing satin stitches (appliqué), the stitching pulls the fabric in at the sides and pushes it out at the ends. Placing stabilizer under the fabric (backing) reduces the distortion. This distortion is especially evident in Machine Embroidery because of the dense stitching involved. Therefore, it is especially important to ensure the fabric is properly stabilized whenever you embroider. Generally the stabilizer goes into the hoop with the fabric. The stabilizer should be very tight- like a drum. The fabric should be neutral- not pulled tight but not soft spots either.

Backings- Stabilizers that are placed under the fabric so they don’t pucker.

Toppings- Stabilizers that are placed on top of the fabric to keep the stitches from sinking into the fabric.

Cut Aways- Backing—This soft stabilizer will always stay with the garment. It keeps embroidery looking good through many wearings. Hoop up with the cut away under the fabric, sew, then trim the extra stabilizer away leaving ¼” around the embroidery. Use with garments and designs with a large stitch count. Use cut aways with garments (sweatshirts, t-shirts, blouses, etc), Sulky Soft’n Sheer (light weight, use under transparent fabrics), Husqvarna Cut-A-Way or Sulky Cut Away Plus (midweight, use under almost everthing).

Tear Aways- Backing—This stabilizer tears away after stitching. Good under fabrics that are already quite stable (not much stretch). Medium weights are good for towels, coats, etc. Use light weight types under sheer fragile fabrics like batiste. Use 1 to 2 layers in the hoop with the fabric. Use tear aways with items where the back will show (towels, coats, dress shirt pockets, etc.) This stabilizer comes in many varieties. Stiffy- medium weight, Husqvarna Tear-Away- medium weight. Stitch-n-Ditch by Thread Pro- light weight. Sulky Tear Easy- light weight.

Solubles- Backing or topping – These stabilizers dissolve in warm water.

As a Topping – lay some on top of fabrics to be embellished to keep stitches from sinking into the nap of fabrics like terry cloth, velvet, etc. It can also be used as a transfer medium by tracing pattern onto soluble stabilizer, then laying it onto fabric and sewing on drawn lines. If the fabric can’t get wet, just tear the soluble away.

To  make lace appliqués, sandwich a piece of tulle or organza between two layers of soluble. Sew the design, remove the stabilizer and excess fabric. Sulky Solvy topping, Super Solvy  (twice the thickness) topping or backing, Husqvarna Dissolve-A-Way topping or backing.

                Tip: If solubles curl up, tack the corners to the fabric by getting your finger damp and then touching a corner of the soluble. Press the soluble to the fabric. Store your soluble in a plastic bag to prevent it from drying up. Save your left over pieces to make a fabric stiffener solution for other projects.

Heat Aways- Backing or topping – These are stabilizers that are removed with the heat of an iron. Only use if fabric can handle heat. Sulky Heat Away.

Iron Ons-  Backing- This is an iron on tear away. It is used to hold knits and other stretchy fabrics while stitching. It is great under sweaters, sweatshirts or anything a tear away is used for. Iron to wrong side of fabric, lay a tear away underneath and hoop all together, embroider, tear off. Firm Hold, Sulky Totally Stable.

Adhesives- Backing – These stabilizers stick to the fabric. They are great for fabrics or garments that cannot be hooped. Hoop adhesive stabilizer into the hoop. Remove the protective paper. Stick the fabric to it. You must use another tear away stabilizer under the hoop (or in the hoop layered under the adhesive) as the sticky type will perforate when sewn through. Husqvarna Stick-On, Sulky Sticky.

StickyBack Adhesives- Backing – These stabilizers stick to the back (bottom) of your hoop. (Make sure the two hoop parts of the hoop a tightened together). Tear away the protective paper and place sticky side up on your workplace then lay hoop on top. Stick the fabric to it. You must use another tear away stabilizer under the hoop as the sticky type will perforate when sewn through. Sulky Sticky-Back Tear Away.

Spray Adhesive-  Lightly spray a mist of this adhesive onto the stabilizer and then stick the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the fabric, then hoop up. This method keeps the fabric from shifting. (Can also hoop the stabilizer, spray it lightly and stick the fabric to the stabilizer without hooping the fabric. If the fabric won’t stick, lightly spray again. Avoid heavy sprayings as this will gum up the needle when sewing.) Sulky KK2000, 505.

Tip: If you have puckering while stitching, add more stabilizer under hoop. Also, make sure fabric is held firmly in the hoop.

Tip: Use cut aways under garment.

Tip: Use tear away stabilizers whenever you will see the back of the design (like towels and coats).

Tip: Use cut aways under dense designs.

Tip: Use Sewers Aid when using adhesives to prevent needle gum ups.

Note: These are just a basic touch of the stabilizers used for Machine Embroidery. There is an introduction of many new stabilizers on the market for you to try. This should give you a good start to help you understand the basics of why they are being used, where, and for what fabrics.

I hope this will help. Nancy

WOW!

That is the easiest, most succinct information I have ever seen regarding stabilizers.

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer

Just A Beginning:

Using the right stabilizer could mean having a good looking design that lays flat to different types of materials. Making a sample test is a must using the same type of material as your project. The right needle can play a role in this also. This is why I stick to embroidery needles only. Your bobbin thread can affect the design also. Also the right weight of thread for that particular embroidery design, for example a 40 wt and a 12 wt. This is why I like to purchase my designs from a well known supplier like Brother, Janome, husqvarna, etc. Or, I will digitize a design myself. I am using PE-Design vs. 7 at the moment. Purchasing a design on the internet made from someone that digitized it themselves might not stitch out for you the same way as when they stitched it. You notice this mostly from the way the outline stitches and there are so many jump stitches. Different machines (brother, janome, singer, husqvarna, babylock, etc) when converting the design (pes, hus, etc ) could change the design a little when trying to suit your machine. For these last two you might have to turn to your computer software to try and edit the stitches to go where you want it.

Everyone including myself had nightmares about which stabilizers, needles, designs, etc when they first started doing machine embroidery. I still remember back in 1990 when I purchased my first machine embroidery (brother 8200) and stitched out my first design, one of the designs that was built into the machine. I was proud of it even though I didn’t use the proper bobbin thread and it was only on sample material. But then the fun started. I took so many classes and made so many samples that soon enough I started teaching myself. It was a lot of fun for me, something that I really enjoyed doing. For me learning and teaching the computer part was the best. Now I am using the ULT2500D embroidery machine along with my old 8200.

If you are just starting out learning about machine embroidery, my suggestion would be to practice on good stable not too much stretch materials until you are used to doing different hooping and non-hooping methods. Materials like: 100% quilting cottons, medium weight terry cloth (towels) etc. Purchasing a 100% cotton flat sheet that is on sale would be a good start. As they say practice makes perfect.

Angela, what kind of material are you trying to stitch on? Maybe I could at least try and help you figure out which stabilizer you should be trying it on.

Nancy G

Here’s a tip that just came to my mind that beginners might want to know:

Because there are so many different weights of stabilizers out there for the tear aways you can get away with just purchasing the light weight and double up if in need of a medium or heavy weight.

Keep in mind though that if you find that you are using more medium weight it might be better to purchase both, depending on which way is cheaper.

If using two or more: hoop the first one and place the others underneath the hoop. This way when tearing away from the material you can tear one at a time. If the stabilizer is still too thick, wet it to make it easier to tear and pull outwards from the design so you don’t distort the stitches. Tweezers come in handy for tight areas.

Nancy G