Charlie207:

Hi again Pattiann and everyone who has been following the progress with my Brother Innovis 4000D. It arrived back last week 7th December - complete with modified part (threading mechanism). I have uploaded some pictures to show the results of this three month wait! I have done the same design twice - once without automatic trimming of the top jump stitch (best result) and once with the auto trimmer working. It seems to me that there is no good reason to have an automatic trimmer if this is what it does to the work! I would be interested to know if other users of this machine have the same issues, please?
I dont know if there is a blog about how to deal with removing tearaway/trimmed stabilisers but can those of you with any experience let me know how you deal with this on items like towels and hankys where the back of the work is very visible, please? The same goes for the jump stitch thread at the back of the work. Should it be trimmed or will the work unravel? Is there any domestic machine that does leave a reasonably/acceptable finish to the back of the work (without loops and jump threads)?
My frustration with this has led me to begin looking at other machines, even semi industrial. Does anyone have recommendations, please? I have been told to look at Janome 1100 (though it has a smaller embroidery field) and a Bernina 8 series 830. However, I have been told that the change from the rotary hook type spool system has resulted in some problems with this machine. I would appreciate any input.
Am I being too sensitive about all of this? Is this how I should expect my work to look and just choose to embroider items that enable me to conceal the back of the work?
Any help will be most appreciated. Merry Christmas and a happy, healthy new year to everyone.

Angela
Just a little FYI, when you insert a photo, grab the handles (click on the photo to get the handles) and make it a bit smaller so we can see it better.
I am really hard pressed to understand how Brother would let a machine be returned to a client when it has not been checked out thoroughly, but I suppose stranger things have happened. I also cannot see a lot because the jump stitches need to be clipped to clarify what is a problem and what is left over from the design. Hopefully this does not show where you have clipped jump and finish stitching!!! You might want to try this - There is a small screw on your bobbin that can be adjusted CAREFULLY! I would sew a small sample on a piece of denim. Then I would adjust that screw no more than 3 to 5 degrees (of a 360 degree circle) clockwise and move the design or fabric away from the first sew out and do it again. Compare and decide what you think. DO NOT MOVE IT ANY MORE THAN THAT.
Jump stitches have a (assuming it was properly digitized) 'set' stitch that is meant to hold the ending stitch and beginning stitch both. I usually do cut them depending on their length. For instance, I would cut short stitches, half way, because sometimes they will cause puckering at that spot. I cut longer stitches about mm (.5 inches) from the stop/start positions. If it is something like a tote, a long stitch could be a problem by getting a fingernail or ring caught. I also trim my start and stop stitches for a single color, but just enough for them not to be lengthy. I have never had a machine that did automatic jump trim, but it seems to me that you should be able to adjust the 'tail' that is left over. I can adjust my end of color trim and frankly, they seem totally similar to me.
For the stabilizer, I have had a lot of challenges with my stabilizers over time. One think I have determined for me, your results may be different, I use an adhesive water soluble for hankies and pashminas. I run tepid water over them for about 60 seconds and then let them soak (the whole hankie or just the corner of the pashmina) in warm water for about 2 hours. My latest blog goes over the issues with my pashminas which would 'pull' the threads askew (different from the "pull" issues of digitizing) ruining my projects. That might help you.
Stabilizers are complex and I try to use tear away as often as possible and my favorites are by Ann by my own choice, not for any other reason.
Lastly, I swear by my Baby Lock, I had an Elageo and loved it - then came the 10 Needle BN10 Enterprise and I was hooked. I love my machine. I cannot say enough about it. Baby Lock was founded by some engineers from Brother who thought they had a better idea.
I agree with them.
Pat, The Avid Embroiderer
If you are interested in selling your projects, you can determine your costs and profits quickly with my Spreadsheet.
If you want a lot of great information on working easier, faster and more confidently on your computer, check out my Tips and Tricks.
If you want to see my pashminas (that I successfully sell retail) check them out here. I also wholesale them.