Ann The Gran Community

I have embroideried a design for my grandson and he wants me to make it into a patch that he can put on one garment and remove it so he can put it on another.

I need information on how and what to use for the backing.

 

THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME.

Hi,

 I am not sure if this will work. but recently I had to sew a patch made of poly-twill, as far as I know this is a fabric with a special glue in it and is used it sport's uniforms (the techinique is called Tackle twill) But its premanent.

If he wants to remove it to put it in another... well... I think he should consider velcro :)

 It would be easier to help if you are more specific of what is he trying to do ;)

 Take care and enjoy your day

Happy easter.. :)

 K

I do some data entry work for a sewing and embroidery machine sales and repair shop.  The owner grew up in his dad's sewing machine shop and he himself has been successfully running his own sewing machine and embroidery machine business for over 23 years. 

I wanted to make some little patches that resemble each girl in her uniform.  You know, like having the same hair style and color for each girl.  We are doing a community service project for Project Pet and since these shirts will probably only be worn for one or two days, I didn't want the girls to "lose" the embroidered look-alikes.  So I asked the guru what he would use to make patches.  His advice was to embroider the design on a material like denim and just to use the tear away stableizer.

 As far as getting them to stick and unstick and then restick - kind of like a Post-It note, you will need to get a special glue made by Aleene's.  I can't remember right off the top of my head what the name of the glue is, something like "stick and restick".  I learned about it at the tatting demonstration at the state fair. You cover the back side of whatever item  you are going to restick with plenty of the restick glue and let it dry for the recommended time. Then  it works just like a heavy duty sticky note.  I bought mine at either Hobby Lobby or Michael's. 

Good Luck!

Angie

His advice was to embroider the design on a material like denim and just to use the tear away stableizer

 

I am new to most of this but if you use tear away would it not be cut by the needle by the time you went around with

final outline  satin stitch?  If so would this not distort?

I too am trying to do a patch for grand daughter and am having trouble with getting the outside edge to look nice.I am using two layers of wash away and cutaway on top.  Not sure of the rest of the order of stitching.

any help would be appreciated. Judit

I have made a few patches using one layer of a (thick, like Sulky brand) water soluble stabilizer (bottom) and two layers (top) of bridal tuille. Embroidery should not have open spaces for patches. After washing off the stabilizer, clip the excess tuille for a clean and perfect patch. I add "Heat 'N BondLite" to my patch to make into an iron-on patch. However, since you want to be able to remove it, consider this: the 'sticks again and again' stuff is like sticky notes, but the patch will fall off if he is wearing this on his clothing. Better to attach the patch on with needle and thread with a quick whip-stitch and remove it later for another use.

Thank you so much for your reply I will definetely try it out. I have done one on heavy water soluable with organza and found the organza freyed and left little whiskers even after a close trim..... thanks again. Judit

I think that the bottom line here is the stabilizer needs to adhere to the fabric you are sewing upon.   I would use a heavy adhesive in this case so that the outside satin stitches will land exactly where they should.  Heavy adhesive  is about as stable as you can get.  Make sure there is no slack between the fabric and stabilizer, which can happen. 

 When you did your 'test sew out,' did you have any movement of the fabric/design?  It is possible for the design to have problems which you would have found during this test.  A design like that would be unsuitable for a patch because of the nature of the patch.  In fact, I would consider that design to be a discard and unusable for anything. 

You will be adding some sort of backing for the patch.  You would probably not want to have a patch with stitches on the back for various reasons, not the least of which would be visibility of those stitches.  If the patch is eventually attached via adhesive, sitches do not allow for a secure and even distribution of the glue and therefore not a good attachment. 

Back the design with a heavy canvas type of fabric.  Let us all know how this is coming along.  Patches that are transferable would be an interesting accomplishment.  I don't think I have ever seen one like that in the market place.  Perhaps you need to consider doing several patches to be attached to those multiple places.

Pat

BTW: My latest blog does cover stabilizers and I hope you will check it out and let me know if you have further questions.  Constructive critique is always welcome!

I have made many iron-on patches using the bridal tuille, and sell them in my store. I can see the organza would fall apart, but the tuille is very stable in two layers, and I can get it in different colors to match darks or reds. I use the Sulky Heavy water soluble-it's pretty thick. After I rinse the stabilizer off, I blot with a paper towel, place it face down and iron it. Then I apply the Heat-n-Bond Lite, remove the paper, cut it out and it's ready to go. If you don't want an iron-on, omit the Heat-n-Bond and use four layers of tuille, rinse and trim.

I used two layers of heavy stabalizer with a layer of organza on top,I sewed out the back part that is the block( like an abc block) then the letter, after that I trimmed off all the backing accept the organza to do the last outside satin stitch border.  Yes I suppose there was movement of fabric.  I guess I probably should have used some water soluble backing under the organza that would still be attached after I trimmed off the heavy stabalizer from the back.  I will have to try it that way maybe.  I am super reluctant to use the adhesive since just using a little bit made my needle gum up an shred the thread several times .... I finally had to stop.  There was too many stops an shreds of thread to make it look good.
Suggestion of course welcome ... will continue to try till I get it right.
Read somewhere to use something called a Badge maker.... what is that does anyone know?   Judit

HH, (Hello Hello ) It's Chatty Cathy here from The Adventures of Crash Course Cathy. I can ACTUALLY contribute an answer for once instead of just asking questions!! Yeah... I'm so excited!!! Ta Da...drum roll please..... I have used "badge master' stabilizer!!!! I know what it looks like and feels like!!! This is a mile stone....I can answer a question!!!! I am so happy!!!. I actually feel like I am contributing something finally!!! I used it for my LACE designs I did for the 1st time last week!!! Which I TOTALLY LOVE to do!!! Badge master is a SUPER duper sturdy wash away and I will be 'blogging" about it ( LACE - a 1st project) for my 3rd blog ( hopefully this weekend.) I ME'd on it...only needed 1 layer for the lace design....I'll be washing it out shortly...and will tell you more about it then. Hope this helps!!! Your question made my day!!!! :) Adventures of Crash Course Cathy

Cathy - I look forward to hearing about the stabilizer - Badge Master.  I wonder where you might get it and its general properties. 

 I am wondering about the lace you talking about.  Is it free standing lace (fsl), or something else?  FSL is one of my favorite ME methods.  It is really fun and interesting to do. 

Pat

I have been making patches for years for Harley-Davidson Bikers and this is my way. The patches usually are just wording surrounded by a satin stitch edging. Example: Loud Pipes Save Lives  It could be a logo or name it really doesn't matter.

When you first try this method, you might want to start with a name.  Like a 1" X 4" just to test this method. I use mostly black felt but this works with any color.  I use a 5" X 7" hoop so I cut my felt to just lay inside the hoop. I iron the piece of felt that I have sprayed with heavy steam until dry. Be sure to watch the temperature of your iron. You need it hot, but not so hot that you melt the felt.  (You can also wet the felt and iron until dry.)  This process will pre shrink your felt. The second step is to cut iron on interfacing the same as the felt and iron that to the felt to give it body. How you are ready to hoop.  I hoop cut-a-way stabilizer.  The I spray adhesive on the interfacing side of the felt and place it on the top of the cut-a-way stabilizer(not hooping the felt).  If you try to use a tear-a-way stabilizer when you stitch out the satin stitch outline it might tear. I sew out my design.  After sewing out the design you will want to iron on a sewable bond. This will seal your stitching and give your patch more body. This does not make your patch a iron on patch. I sew on all my patches.  If you try to iron on a patch, you will probably ruin the stitching and maybe even the material you are trying to iron it to. By sewing it on if you change your mind or want to put it on something else it is easily removed. Trim around you patch as close as you can with out cutting the satin stitches. After cutting my patches out I like to use a permanent marker to color the interfacing so it will blend when it is sew on. If you are using a design you want to make a patch out of, just sew the design on the felt and cut close around the edge to make it a patch. I use this to put my kids name in jackets or you make a design into a key chain by backing it with additional felt and putting an eyelet in it. A monogram work really cute for a keychain.

Good luck!!!

 

Wow, what great timing!  I just sat down at my computer to see if I can find some information on making patches.  I decided to look at the email I received from Ann the Gran first and you can just imagine how excited I was to see one of the topics was on making patches.  It appears that I need to pick up a few supplies but then I am going to reread this thread and take advice of those of you who have done this before.  I will let you know how it goes!

 Thanks for all of the great information!

If I remember, the name to the Aleene's glue is call "Stick It Again"  I used it back in the 80's for small material dolls to stick on to a wall hanging of a house w/ different rooms.  I think I had to put some interfacing on the back of the material dolls then put the glue on that & let it dry.  I personally need to find more of this glue or whatever is being used today for that same wallhanging/dolls as today its the granddaughter playing with it.  I was pleased with the results years ago, but my item wasn't worn out in the public.  I'd recommend checking often to make sure it hasn't fallen off!   Should there be another product out there, please share the fact.   Good Luck!

Judit, I think I would maybe use the cut away for the main bottom stabilizer & use one layer of wash away on top????? Not sure what type of trouble w/ the outside edge you're having  might help to descibe it as accurate as possicle as might help w/ the advice you get.  Can't say I've ever heard anyone use cut away on top!?!?!  Good Luck!

Judit, just reading Jeannettes  quote made me remember something that I did....My daughter wanted a green clover for my ganddaughter to wear to school.  I had a floppy w/ minatures & I used a thick stabilizer that I got @ Walmart it looked like a paper but it was about 1/16" thick, I hooped it then put a green felt on top but not in the hoop then I embroidered the little shamrock.  I then removed from the hoop & trimmed the stabilizer out w/ scissors them trimmed the felt to close to the stitching but left a bit as a outline.  I then used my hot glue gun & glued a pin on the back.  I liked it soooo much that I ended up making a bunch & giving them to all my sewing friends.  thought that might be an idea for your removable patch.

Stitch the design with one layer of heavy water soluble and two layers of poly organza, cut approximately 1/8" away from the design.  Then use a soldering iron or craft heat iron to seal the edges - the organza melts and seals the stitches - no fraying and it gives the "patch" more body on the edges.  Also works great for designs to be added to barettes, flips flops, etc. for embelishment.  Good Luck!

I made several patches for my daughters choir members.  I hoop one layer of heavy water soluble stabilizer, stitch out the outline, then add two precut layers of heavy cutaway spray glued together to the outline.  The entire piece is 'all-over' stitched, then the choir name and music design is stitched on top.  The satin stitch outline is last.  When finished, I only need to break away the excess water soluble stabilizer and wipe the edges of the patch with a damp sponge.  Several members still have their original from many  years ago and are moving it to which ever garment they are currently wearing.

"Aleen's Tack-It over & Over" tacky glue works great.  Works on fabric, wool, paper, glass, plastic...I first used it to attach a beautiful Christmas applique to a sweater that I didn't want to permantely sew anything on.

Nikki

Stitches n' Stuff

These responses are really great!  I am so impressed by what I am reading and appreciative of all the information.

 Pat