Ann The Gran Community

My husband got me a Brother PC-8500D a couple of years ago for an anniversary gift, and I LOVE that it comes with Disney images already loaded on to it, but I do not use it for embroidery as much as I would like because everything seems to "sink" into the fabric, unless I embroider on a lightweight fabric (like a t-shirt).  When I got it, I thought that I would embroider things like towels or blankets (for wedding and baby shower gifts) but everytime that I do, the images/lettering seems to "sink" into the fabric.  I use a stabilizer on the back, and I have even tried using a topping but I still think that they just do not look very good, so I do not use the embroidery features as often as I would like to.

I am ready to just give up on the idea if ever using my machince for embroidery and just use it for normal sewing. 

Any suggestions?

Shawn

Hi, Shawn.

Do a few samples on terry or fleece using a topper of WSS.  I think you will see a big difference.  

Pattiann

PS:  Here is a great tutorial - http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=PR1256

There is no good reason why the designs should 'shrink into the fabric'.  I would try a different stablizer, make sure both the stablizer and the fabric are hooped well.  Make sure your machine is on the right settings for embroidery.  Try messing with the tensions.  On towels or any fabric with a nap use a topper. 

Try a design on scrap materail and adjust the tensions as you go as see if you get a better result.  If these don't work take it to a Brother Dealer and it may cost a little but whatever the cost is you will get it back ten fold in the pleasure of doing ME.

Marge

Shawn - You have a really great machine and I hope you will keep working toward the results you desire.

I was at a class on Monday with a embroidery machine master technician who owns two embroidery shops here in San Diego.  Mike has over 30 years of sewing/embroidery machine workings, repair and products.  He is very knowledgeable!

The discussion came on to the subject of sinking designs and he said "I would use up to 3 layers of water soluble stabilizer (wss) on a towel or blanket."  A gasp was heard from the crowd.  Someone said "won't that make the stitches floppy?"  His answer was so wise.  He said that in wss, most of the wss is disolved but some will be absorbed by the thread and keeps them set. 

I plan to try this soon because there is no present like a personalized towel or blanket.  Mike and his wife, Paula are really great, client oriented people who enjoy helping us all have terrific projects.

Pat

Thank you EVERYONE for your comments and suggestions!

3 layers . . . really!?!?!?  WOW!  Currently I am using the Brother tear-away stabilizer on the bottom, and a Floriani Water Soluble topping (one layer of each) . . . do you think I should try increasing the topping and stabilizer, or just one at a time?

I LOVE doing personalized baby blankets as gifts when someone I know has a baby . . . the blankets I used to get were not as plush so it all worked out fine, but now the blankets are thicker (which I acutally like better for a gift) but it just has made sewing on them harder.

I do want to find a place locally that does classes.  I have been sewing since I was 10 years old, but embroidery is an totally different world and I have only been playing with it for a few years, and I want to get better at it.

Shawn

Check the blogs for a stabilizer guideline.  While it does not cover all issues possible - - - - it does have some good hints for assisting you with your issue.

Tear away is the least strong stabilizer.  At minimum, go to a cut away.  When you have them side by side, look through them (at a light) and you will see that tear away is really 'pressed' fragments of material and the cut away is more - well - stable.  Go to at least a medium cut away, but I recommend a heavy cut away. 

Stabilizers are among the least expensive items for ME.  It still pays to get the very best you can afford.  The ATG Club price for stabilizers cannot be beaten anywhere on the Internet or in a store. 

I also don't recommend patching the scraps together.  A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.  Use your scraps as 'floating' pieces under the hoop, not attached to the hoop.  Water soluble scraps can be great for this purpose.

Pat

I did check out the links posted (thank you!) and I do see that the cut away gives the best look.  I don't mind using cut away on shirts or other items where no one will see the back side, but I really like the benifits of a tear-away or WS when doing work on a blanket or towel (where the back side will be seen more often) . . . especially on baby blankets . . . no one wants to wrap up their baby in a blanket with pieces of stiff, scratchy stabilizer still on the back of it.

I think I am going to have to play with some options and see what works out best.  I always get the same style of blanket for gifts, so once I get it right on one, I will know that I have it right for all of them going forward.

I hope that I can get the right combination to make these blankets look as nice as I would like them to!

There are 'soft' stabilizers on the market.  The Mesh No shows are among them (usually, but check the label).

Water soluble is also a great method.  You have the right idea, check out some options and use the one that works best for your particular project.  Let us know what you selected for us to learn.

Pat

Pat, I've heard about "floating" pieces under the hoop and think I'll try it.

Deb

Deb-Give it a try, you may find it to be a good method for puckering issues.   Of course you must have the hooped stabilizer that is the foundation for your design.  But adding  little 'meat' to the mix may assist you to have a better project.  Others may have more ideas and I hope they add them here for us to use.  My way is not the only avenue, it is one of the methods that works for me, and I hope it does for you as well.

I was just reading an article about 'roadblocks' in our lives.  It went something like this:

If I came to a roadblock in my life, such as contiuous puckering on my projects, I could just say "well, that is how it is" and accept it as part of the process. 

However, if I were driving to an important event and encountered a roadblock, like a downed tree, you can bet that I would be thinking of alternative methods to get where I want to go.  I would be leafing through a map and on my cell phone trying to overcome my issue.

That is how the Forum and Blogs are here at ATG.  They are the maps and lifelines to find other methods and I love hearing a new idea from all of you.  A failed design is an opportunity to learn.  I hope that the failure is not on an expensive fabric or garment, but we are all learning all the time.

Seasoned or newbie, we can have that lightbulb moment and I am glad to have somewhere to share my thoughts and read about yours!

Pat

I was just reading about using three layers of wss on towels and blankets.  I might have missed something but are these three layers put on the top or on the back?  If on the top, what goes on the back of the towel or blanket?  I too have trouble with stitches getting lost in the fabric. 

I was reading some of the older posts and this one popped out at me.  I too have trouble with stitches disappearing in the towels or blankets.  When using three layers of wss, is this put on the bottom or the top?  If on the top, what would work best on the bottom?  It is comforting to know that other people have the same problems that I have. 

It was recommended 3 layers of WSS on top and a soft cut away on the back.

WSS does come in more than one weight and is it possible the 3 layers referred to were the lighter weight or a medium weight.

If I were using the heavy WSS, I would try just one layer.

The thicker the WSS the longer it will have to soak to remove it.

Some design were not meant to be stitched on a heavy napped fabric.  The best ones to use are those designed especially for fleece or open designs and not a dense design.

I don't use wwe on the top of anything.  I use either a plastic sheet that was developed for commerical embroidery or tulle.  If you use any kind of wwe it does what it says, it washes away and then you are back to the design sinking again.

With either the plastic sheet or the tulle it is there under the design forever.  I have towels I did 3 years ago and the design is sitting prettly on top.

Marge

There are many ideas about stabilizers and the really best way to determine your requirements is to do your test sew out on a fabric as nearly like your destination towels or blankets as you can find.

For myself, I use Badgemaster on the bottom and a light weight water soluble on the top.  I was surprised that the light weight was enough for the top, but it is.  The top is not really a stabilizer, it is more like a lifter of threads and holds down the nap at the same time. 

Play with old towels, but remember that the nap will not be the same as a fluffy new towel.  I had fun with some old beach towels!

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer