Hello Happy Stitcher's!

I am going to cut right to the chase here today, as I have been wading through 35 pages of information on thread!  Yes 35 pages!  I understand, Wow! So I am going to give you some things you will likely want to print out and keep. I am so excited to be able to share with all of you this information!

I am first going to be discussing thread weight. Weight is actually a length measurement. As I talked about before thread comes in various weights, the most commonly used are 30wt, 40 wt, and 50 wt. The smaller the number, the heavier the thread is. The most commonly used for Embroidery is 40 wt. If the designs are too dense you can try using a lighter 50 wt. thread. Bobbin threads are usually finer and often are a 60 wt thread.

It also comes in three different measurements, those being, Weight, Denier Weight, and Tex. Weight. Weight: is as described above, the smaller the number the heavier the thread.

 Denier Weight: (in grams) A larger number indicates heavier thread. Comparative note here: that a 40 wt. thread is approximately equal to 240 Denier.

 Tex Weight: (in grams), of 1000 meters of thread. Comparative note here: 40 wt. = 240 Denier = Tex 25.

 Alrighty then, now is everyone totally confused? I hope this is easy for you all to understand, I tried to simplify it as much as possible.

  Madeira Rayon Thread             Gutermann,Madeira,Isafil,Mettler

Most computerized embroidery designs are digitized for 40 wt. rayon thread, and this does not mean you have to use that type of thread specifically. There are many times when a different weight or type of thread will be more suitable for your needs. There are times when you may want to use both a 30 and 40 weight thread in a design. If you have a large fill area, and you are using a light colored thread on a dark fabric, you may want to consider using 30 wt because it will have better coverage. On smaller sections a 40 wt would be more appropriate.

If you have a re-sizing software and increase the size of the design, you may be happier with the results using a 30 wt as it is thicker and will give you better coverage on a now larger area. It may also be necessary to reduce the tension of your machine as it is a more dense thread.

Polyester Thread, Mettler, Isafil

Rayon: is a synthetic fiber, has great sheen, is soft, relatively heat resistant, and is the standard for machine embroidery. The thing to remember with rayon is that it is not colorfast,not as durable as poly and not as strong as poly.

 Polyester: is produced by pressing polymer resins through small holes and solidifying in the form of filaments. It is colorfast,has more tensile strength than rayon, retains its shape better, and recovers stretch.Not as shiny as rayon but is much more durable and would be used for items that are to be laundered many times.

 Metallics: are made of thin, flat ribbon like fibers that is metalized with aluminum. They do not provide good coverage and are not as resilient. They can fray and break(as many of you know).

Glazed thread: is thread put through a process to create a glossy, high luster finish. It is not recommended for ME.

 Mercerized Thread: is thread that has been through a process treated in a caustic solution under controlled tension,that cause the fibers to swell. It also adds luster and strength.

Nylon: is a synthetic, and is most commonly used in the form as a monofilament clear thread or as a textured fuzzy thread. It is not heat resistant,or colorfast, has a low melting temperature, and becomes brittle after laundering.It is also considered a general purpose thread along with cotton, and a cotton wrapped polyester.

Silk: thread absorbs dye more brilliantly than any other fiber, and is really the top of the line in specialty threads. It sews without breaking,has strength of a poly,while having the stability of cotton. It has a distinct sheen to it the cannot be matched by any other thread, coming in 30 to 50 wts. and a wide variety of colors. It is also very expensive, but may be worth considering for formal wear, such as a bridal gown.

Metallic, Robison-Anton, Madeira, Sulky         

        Cotton thread, Madeira, Mettler

You should also consider these factors when buying thread:

 Tensile Strength, a quick test for you to do to evaluate the strength of different embroidery threads is to ask for someone to help you,suspend a piece of thread, then using a second piece of the same thread saw back and forth along the first. Look to see how much abuse the thread takes before breaking.

Elongation, is the amount of stretch a thread has. In other words pull on it to see how much it can stretch before breaking. Too much elasticity can cause puckering, and too little can cause it to break. Sheen, is the color saturation and the luster of the thread. thread looks different on the spool than it does on the design. Compare stitch outs with different threads for the best evaluation of a certain product.

Remember also that the higher the quality of thread, the less special handling will be necessary and less breakage and waste. Look for a guarantee, if you are not satisfies with a thread can you return it? Make sure the thread you have selected is intended for your application. Ask yourself some basic questions when buying, such as, what fabric am I using,what is the content and the weight of the thread,what needle type and size should I use,what stabilizer, and do I need to adjust the tension of my machine? Each type and brand of thread has specific characteristics and will behave differently.

Now looking at the thread, cones, and spools, check for uniform wind. Lack of uniformity results from improper winding and can indicate damaged threads. Look for uniform color, any non standard appearance is caused from too high winding tensions and the thread is damaged.

 Look for bruises and flat spots,damage can occur in handling and will result in breaks. It can be defective because of improper construction, in this case, either return it to where you purchased it or toss it. It can cause severe damage to your machine and Will save you a lot of headaches.

Now last but not least, do not store metallic threads with adhesive tape to prevent unwinding, It can rub off onto the thread then accumulate in the tension disks of your machine and the eye of the needle. This can result in severe machine damage as well.

I do also recommend a thread delivery system like the Thread Pilot, as the trend for the future is larger thread spools. This is because of the savings to you. A lot of the cost on a spool of thread is the winding process, so the larger the spool, the bigger the savings. Thread stands help to alleviate the issue of delivery. Larger spools do not work well on a vertical pin delivery, as they are much too heavy and put too much "drag" on the thread and prevents smooth rotation. It also lifts the thread to a higher position which helps facilitate an even feed without added tension. Thread on a king or mini king spool is cross wound and putting it on a thread stand is beneficial in its delivery, as cross wound thread is meant to come off the top of the spool while sitting flat on the on the thread stand. Thread stands work well as they can accommodate any size spool, and often come with adapters to perform this function.

Now comes the question of how much should I buy? This is a simple solution to aide in that process:

 5,M cone= approx. 1,250,000 MM stitches.

The average length of an embroidery stitch is approx. 3 millimeters.

 A 1,000 M cone= approx. 250,000 MM stitches.

I hope this will help you in determining how much.  To me, I just buy an extra spool, I will use is at some point!

Next, we get into the bobbins,which also come in different weights, the most common among those is 50wt and 60wt. There are two types of bobbins, L size and M size. Over 75% of home machines use the L size bobbins. The trend is shifting so that home machines are becoming more compatible as far as bobbins are concerned. The M size is a larger bobbin used in some long arm machines.

Now comes the question of whether you should use pre-wound or wind your own? It is personal preference. However it has been proved time over, that the pre-wound tend to have more thread on them than you can wind yourself. If I was doing this for a business, I would defiantly go with pre-wound, for the ease of use. The cost isn't that great on them verses ones you wind yourself. The down side is matching color with the top threads. Bobbins do come in colors now but they are very expensive in relation to self wound.

Madeira Bobbins

Plastic? Or Paper? No, this is not the grocery store! Bobbins come in plastic or cardboard. Again, personal preference and machine type. Some say that the plastic sided ones are so smooth that they may continue to spin even after your machine stops and can cause backlash.some machines seem to work better with cardboard sided as the cardboard sides provide more friction and backlash is not a problem. If it is then the tension may need to be tightened.

Polyester or cotton bobbins, which should you use? Again, that is personal preference, keep in mind though that cotton does throw off quite a lot of lint and usually requires more diligent cleaning routine than using polyester. They have little or no lint to them. As far as someones saying that you can not use them because your dealer told you not to, or someone said it will void your warranty, not true!

Almost every major manufacturer sells pre-wound bobbins. Cotton bobbins are the ones that most quilters go for as it keeps the fiber content consistent with the fabric, batting, and top thread. For embroidery, it is ok but on dense fill designs it will result in a stiff design. Polyester or spun-poly and cotton wrapped poly, are stronger than cotton. A lot of people like it for its strength. The issue is that it does not have a slick surface and can grab the top thread too tight creating uneven stitches and breakage. Filament poly is thin and lightweight, yet strong. Embroiderers like it as it creates a soft backing, even on dense fills. Unfortunately, the bobbin is not always considered a factor when trying to find answers to thread issues. It is widely known that there are fewer problems with bobbin thread than with top threads.

These are some common issues with threads and needles:

Thread breaks: can be cause by many things, the most common being a burr on your needle, in the needle eye itself, tension, bent needle, lint buildup, incorrect digitizing causing design to be too dense in a fill area, thick fabrics, pooling of thread that causes portions of the spool to wind off improperly.

 Thread Pileups: on the back of the fabric is caused when tension adjustment is needed.

Stitching not following the pattern: are caused by bent needles,loose hoop in the frame.

Flat Stitching: is caused from tension tightness, use a topping film on fabrics with a pile such as towels.

Looping: is cause by needing a tension adjustment for tight fabric weaves, or has been digitized with too many stitches.

Skipped Stitches: are caused by using the wrong bobbin or incorrect needle size.

Puckering: is caused from having the tension too tight, having the backing not hooped with the same tension as the fabric, fabric is hooped too tightly, needles are not sharp enough, density of the design is too thick and needs to be increased in size a little bit.

Whew! Alright now, I am giving a test on Monday so you better print this one off! Just kidding! I don't expect anyone to remember all of this so I hope you will print it off so you will have it for future reference.

So that's it for me until next time!  As Always.....................Happy Stitchin'! 

    Remember to K.I.S.S someone close to you today!

Suzy's Tip Of The Week!: When sewing like items or multiple items such as quilt squares, sew all of them on one side, leaving a 1/2" or so of thread between them. When done, go through and clip them, stack them accordingly, then go through and sew all of the other side doing the same thing. Big time saver! Just follow throughout the entire square, then stack according to your quilt layout. By doing this, you are saving the time it would take you to cut each piece separately. Once you get the hang of doing this, you will each figure out which stacking method works best for you. Good Luck!

Take care until the next time folks, Happy Fall!

For those of you who would like to help the Wee Care Program, here is a link that will take you to information about them as well as some patterns for the little clothes.

Thanks to all that e-mailed me about this!  http://www.smocking.org:80/

 Photo's courtesy of Madeira,Mettler,Isafil,Sulky,Guttermann official web sites.

 Hello all of you Happy Stitcher's!

Wow, can you believe it? This is the 5th edition of this blog! It is hard for me to imagine that I have written 5 already! It sure doesn't seem like it at all. I guess that must mean I enjoy what I do and sharing this wonderful craft with everyone! This will be part 1 of a series about thread. I say part 1 because when I first started to do research for this post, I thought to myself, "How much can I say about thread"? As I was getting into it, I realized that there is more to thread than meets the "eye"! (yeah, well, we have to get our laughs where we can!)

I know it is probably not high on your priority list of things to read, but it should be! With what we do it is one of the most important items of our wonderful craft, whether Sewing, Quilting, or Embroidery. I realize that right now you are thinking what is so exciting about thread, am I correct? Without it, we would not be able to enjoy many of the things that we do today, such as clothing, furniture, bed linens, and so on. The list is huge!

I can sometime imagine what the Eskimos must have had to do just to sew one simple garment to wear. They first had to either grind sections of fish bones into a very simple needle, called an "Awl", to use to attach their garments together. It was usually 2 to 6 inches in length. Or sometimes they may use a sharpened splinter of hardwood or a polished piece of ivory. Needles were prized possessions, with a hole chipped into one end and were as fine as the ones we use today.Using the large tendons of a deer, elk, or moose, then drying it. Once dried, they would either chew it or pound it to get it soft enough to use, then shred it. This was called "Sinew". The most common stitch used then was the running stitch. It is hard to imagine that today as now we simply go to the local fabric shop and choose from many varieties of needles. I imagine it was likely about the same for the American Indians also.

I have had a lot of people ask me how they can ensure they are getting a good spool of thread. The best way to tell is pull some off the spool, then hold it up to the light. Really look at it, if it appears to be what I call " thick and thin" then it is not a good spool. If it appears to look frayed in any way, I would go to another spool. Just because it is a name brand thread, does not mean that every spool that comes off the assembly line is a good spool. When you get a spool like this chances are it will be constantly breaking or fraying during use. Here are some microscopic photo's of some common embroidery threads.

   Isacord          

   Mettler Metrosene

                       Sulky Rayon

  Photo's courtesy of about.com

 Madeira Metallic

It is easy once you really look at the different types of thread the differences between them. A good buy on thread sometimes is always not a "good buy". I have a whole box of thread I purchased on the INTERNET very cheap. Needless to say that is exactly what I received, a box of cheap thread! You get what you pay for and in this case I should have run away from the site! If the price is too good to be true, that is likely what it is, not true! This stuff was so bad that I actually pull it off the spools, cut it up and let the neighborhood birds use for nest construction, along with the hair I chop off hubby's head! That is really all it is good for. At least the neighborhood is colorful! So if you go to the fabric store and see some spools of thread with a few inches of thread pulled off, you will know why.

As far as how long a spool of thread is good for? Until you use it up! For me that usually isn't long enough to worry about it going bad! I have had some of it for quite a while, maybe 4 or more years (Thread Sale!), they are colors that you wouldn't use that often. However, thread can rot over a long period of time and when exposed to direct sunlight. I like to keep mine covered with some old towels I have for that reason. It also helps in keeping any dust off of it as well. Dust Can build up on it and cause problems for not only your sewing machine but it can cause it to break a lot also, at least until the dusty part is used up. Sometimes if I have left it out in the open for a period of time, I will pull off several inches of the thread and get rid of it.

The best I have used is Madeira(of course, I wish I could afford more of it),Sulky,Isafil, Isacord, Robison Anton, and Janome. Sometimes if I am looking for a specific color that I cannot find in the brands I like I will use Mettler, or Gutterman.Of course you all know that thread also comes in many different weights,as does bobbin thread as well.Ranging from 30,40,50,60 and many more different weights. A lot of the weight measurement depends on the manufacturer. They all seem to have their own weight system as well as their own color system.

Then of course you have the option of Rayon, Poly, Metallic,Cotton, Monofiliment, Neon, Silk, Solar Active, Glow In The Dark, Shrinking Thread, Variegated, Hologram, and Maxi Lock for sergers. This doesn't include all that is out there. Cotton thread is generally used for quilting. I have used monofiliment, but really don't like it that much. Each has it's own Characteristics for use. We haven't even gotten into the bobbin threads yet, which they also have different weights and grades like sewing threads.I have a certain bobbin thread I like and works very well in my particular machine, as I am sure most of you have found also. The one I use comes in three colors, black, tan, and white. This is another case where I strongly recommend that you go to your manual and see what the manufacturer says to use. Sometimes if I have issues with thread it is usually related to the type of thread being used.

Now we get into the Metallic threads, of which there are many different brands. The best way I have used metallic is by placing it in a coffee cup behind my machine, then running it over the top of my Thread Pilot, so it has a chance to relax a bit while using it. I also lower the speed of my machine to the slowest I have. (around 400) It is one of the most difficult to use for many folks. Patience is the key when using metallic thread! This for me has by far been the best method. Everyone generally comes up with a method that works for them and their brand of machine,I say stick with what you know works for you and your equipment! I always prefer to pay the extra money to buy a good Metallic thread as well. It is worth the extra money you pay for it, for ease of use and less breakage. I have used the less expensive brands, without much sauces. I will also pay the extra money for a good poly or rayon either one. It just makes sense to use the ones that give you the best results, with the least amount of breakage. It is also the best way I know of to guarantee success and a professional looking item.

I will say though, for you to stop and think about how many different places that the thread passes through before it gets to your needle. Back in the old days, you could actually see these parts and your tension disks. Now they are housed inside a covering to protect them from dust and dirt collecting on them. The down side to this is that you cannot see what is happening either. If you are not buying a good quality thread you may even be causing damage to the tension disks, eventually causing it not to maintain the proper tension. Are you really willing to risk the investment you have involved in your machine to save a few bucks on cheap thread? It can be an extremely costly repair bill, or worse yet, have to buy a new machine.

The next issue will go into more detail of the different types of threads and their uses,and there are many! I have just "scratched" the surface of it.

At this point I could go on and on, but I see you are starting to doze off on me so, instead I would like to introduce you to another one of our Central Florida ladies.

Meet Kathlene Bradford! She has recently had an article published in the SAGA (Smocking Arts Guild Of America) magazine's recent issue. If you click on her name it will take you to the media section where you can see a photo of her and what she does. If you go here, you can read the article about her, and the charity that is near and dear to her heart! It will not only bring a tear to your eyes, but will introduce you to someone who knows the meaning of giving, and how to get it done! Congratulations Kath, I am so proud to call you "Friend".

That's it for me, so until next time>>>>>>>>>>>> Happy Stitchin!

Judy

   Remember to Kiss someone you love today!

Suzy's Tip Of The Week:   When sewing slippery fabrics, pinning it is still the best method to hold it in place. it does take a lot of time but it is still faster than tearing out the seams and starting over. another method I have used and works quite well, is use a fusible tape along the seam allowance, then basting it. I really prefer the pinning method, i know it is the old fashioned approach, but that is what I have had the best luck with.

Fuse:>>>>> To fuse; means to glue two layers of fabric together, usually with an iron

Interfacing:>>> Is a non visible addition to fabric that adds body to an item, that the fabric alone doesn't have.

Appliqué':>>>> Is attaching a small piece of fabric to a larger piece of fabric to form a specific design or art.

You had all better put on a pot of coffee and grab a couple of danish for this folks!It is going to be a long one this time, I have so much to share with you! First I would like to start with a brief history lesson.

Did you know that the first commercially successful sewing machine was built in the 1850's? Before that there were a few others that had patents, some did not on similar types, but it was Issac Singer who really brought it to fruition. He also invented the up and down motion of the needle, while others had it moving side to side. He also copied the idea of Elias Howe by using the lock stitch and the eye pointed needle, and lost a lawsuit against him by Howe and had to pay him royalties for patent infringement. We still use these methods today.

In 1863 Ebenezer and Augusta Butterick invented the idea of using tissue paper for patterns, and in 1867 formed a company to get them into every home in America. They changed sewing forever with their first graded pattern. These are just a few fun facts that I thought you would enjoy!

This is a clothing label from one of the first mass produced articles of clothing in the 1860's.

Now I can move on to the real reason for the history lesson, and that is I am going to be discussing sewing machines and their parts. Parts is Parts, as they say! Another reason for the lesson is to show how far we have come since the first sewing machines were invented. We went from deciding whether a needle should move side to side or up and down to computerized machines. Back in the early days when I first began sewing, you could actually see the working parts of the machines, which really made them easier to take care of than the ones we have now. However since they still need some care, but for the most part we cannot do much of the repair work ourselves. It has to be done by an experienced technician. We can make sure that the working parts we can see are well cared for, such as the bobbin casing area.

I like to take it apart and clean it out once in a while, of course it will depend on how much you use your machine as to how often you should do this. When you do take it apart, Do Not Blow it out with any type of air hose or Duster! All that does is is push it further into the inner workings of your machine and can cause problems. I like to take a 1" paint brush and sweep away as much as I can out of the casing area. Then I take an artists brush( less than1/2"one) and put the tiniest bit of sewing machine oil on it and lightly brush the inner workings of it, and any visible moving parts. I also take my paint brush and clean off around the needle area, then take the needle out and use the other oiled brush to very lightly brush around that area. I also move the hand wheel a little so it moves then I can oil all the moving parts. Keep in mind that the machines of today use far less oil than even a few years ago, so very ,very lightly with it please.

Now lets talk about the feed dog! No I don't mean go and feed the dog! The feed dog on your sewing machine, and how important it is to Not force anything through it. By forcing fabric through it you can bend the needle without even realizing it, until it is too late. The operator must let the machine do it's work. That means letting the feed dog pull the fabric through the machine. We are there to serve as the machines guide. A bent needle can cause so may problems with your machines, so if you think you may have bent the needle in any way, Change it! If you hear something like a "hitting" sound when you sew, stop the machine immediately and change the needle, even if your thread keeps breaking for no apparent reason, change it! If you don't it can become a costly repair bill in a hurry!

  These are my two machines. (see my sticky notes Ha!)

To learn the parts of your particular machine, look inside your manual and you will see a drawing with numbers on it, each number is representative of a part for your machine. You should always take the time to read through this, so you know where all the parts are. I can show you mine, but it won't do you much good for your brand of machine, even though they are basically the same, they are different.

Alright , enough with the history lesson and the machines for a bit! I have had the opportunity the last few weeks to use some new tools. One of them, get this, is called"Squissors" or squeeze snips, and are the ones I have heard some chatter about lately,so I had to try them! Oh My Stitches!! I am here to tell you that even if you have the slightest bit of arthritis or carpel tunnel, you have got to get a pair of these! They are light weight, and extremely easy to use and are very easy on your hands! I got two pair, one with pointed ends and one with rounded ends.

The pointed end ones were Wonderful, and very sharp, ( I know they shouldn't have given me any sharp objects!) They are really wonderful for trimming those pesky jump threads and get really close when you are trimming anything from the embroidery at all. I defiantly give those a thumbs up ! You have to put these on your list of must have gizmo's! They are very nicely priced as well!

The rounded ones I thought would be excellent for cut work, and they did exactly what I thought they would do. They are also very sharp and are really designed for appliqué but they are also wonderful for cut work, being rounded you don't have to worry about them catching on any of the threads and accidental pulling them up. You can get really close to the embroidery again, without having to worry too much. I give these a thumbs up as well! These should also go on your list of gizmo must haves as well! They are also very nicely priced!

Now, LaRue you are going to love this one!! It is called a "Hera Marker."       

  Before "Hera Marker"     After "Hera Marker"

 As you can see by the photo's that there is a definite crease in the fabric. I tried to use it on one that was a bit darker so it was visible for you. I tried it on several different types of fabric, as well as different colors. While it won't work for fabrics like fleece, it did work on everything else I tried it on. The mark really stays on the fabrics, so I am thinking it would be great to mark out the fabric and use this to get a straight cutting line. You could actually mark all of your fabric then cut it out later. I am also thinking that it would work for tracing around the outline for placement of designs onto items. I tried and it worked pretty good for placement. Rather than pinning paper to the garment you could use this marker and not have to worry about it leaving some sort of residue behind on your garment. I think it would be wonderful for endless hooping projects as well as for Quilting! I found it easy to use and hang onto as well, with the arthritic hands. This product also gets a big thumbs up!! Kudos to the inventor on this one! I highly recommend this product! Very inexpensive item to add to the list of gizmos!

So stay tuned folks! I will let you know when I try new products and will also let you know that if they make a claim as to what it will do, I will let you know if it really does! Sort of like the Ralph Nader of sewing!!

Now on to the fun stuff, Sewing and ME, my two favorite combinations!! I have had a lot of folks ask me about the Flour Sack Towels, so here they are!! All I do when doing them is first to find the center.  Then I stabilize the hoop with Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer with adhesive.   Then I center it on the hoop,using the marking on my hoop as a guide. Smoothing out with my hands gently to set the adhesive and get out all the wrinkles.

  I then set it on my machine and add the top layer of Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer for the topping.

 Then I just let it sew out the designs, I used Ann The Gran Floral Butterfly Redwork Design Pack for this one,I love the way it sewed out and I also added lettering( thanks Cathy for this idea) with Alphabet Xpress,then hit the 3D feature on it, it turned out really nice.

 I love Ann's Redwork, it sews out beautifully for flour sack towels. For the second set I did I used Ann's Jacobean Style Design Pack, and it turned out fabulous,the colors are spectacular as well and will spice up any kitchen for sure!

I love using Ann's designs, they always sew out well, they work well on any type of fabric and they never have a lot of jump threads. That's a good thing! I also love the bright colors ! That is just how easy the flour sack towels are. With Ann's Water soluble with adhesive it makes fast work of them for sure. The red work one took 18 minutes to sew out, and I found that they are exceptional redwork designs and the Jacobean one took 38 minutes, so not very time consuming for a great gift! When finished, you just cut off the excess stabilizer, wash the rest of it off then launder, press, done! This project is fast and easy!

Alright, I told you it was a long one this time, Whew! Did you get to all of your danish?! So that is it for me this time, I hope you all enjoyed your Holiday weekend and I will see you next time !

Judy

Suzy's Tip Of The Week>>>>> Keeping your thread organized according to color will make your work faster. By color coding them you need only to glance at them to know which color you will need for your project. It is a lot of work to do this but will save so much time later that it will be well worth it !

Take care everyone...........til next time.........Remember to kiss someone you love today! 

 Happy Stitchin'!

Hello Everyone!

Now that you have some of the basic things down pat (right?), we can move along to some other things, like the fun stuff with ME and sewing! This selection will include a simple project I think everyone will not only enjoy doing, but giving as a gift as well.

First and foremost we are going to discuss some of the tips, tricks and hints I have been talking about. Let us take for example just getting ready to do this project we are going to do today. What is the first thing you do? Do you first look at the field on which the embroidery will be going? Or do you first find a design to put on "something"? OK! Here's the scoop, we all want to have more time to do our craft, am I right? Yep! I thought so! So here is a list of things to consider when working on any project.

The first thing you should do is look at the item you have chosen to do the embroidery on, while looking at it, just for kicks, let's go ahead and find the exact center. Second, what design(s) have you chosen for it? Again, for the heck of it, let's go ahead and re-size our design(s) and move them to either our card or machine ( whatever you do for your brand of machine). So, now we are ready to begin sewing,right? Not quite yet.

Next let's go ahead and check the needle and if necessary, change it. Now prepare your colors on your Thread Pilot or if you are changing them one at a time, place them all to your right within easy reach. Prepare all of your necessary bobbins (this project will likely take two), place them within easy reach of your machine. Now do your test sew, and because I only had one of these I used a piece of cotton fabric, as I only wanted to make sure the re-sized design sewed out properly. Once this is done to your satisfaction, save the design to the machine for safe keeping. This will hold all the settings you have created with your test sew. Once the test is done and you are satisfied with it, remove it from the hoop, then prepare the hoop for the actual stitch out,and set it up ready to sew.

What the test sew should have told you is (a) what type of stabilizer (b) is the design big enough for your item (c) how long it took to complete (d) what colors to use (e) was the needle type working well with the design (f) Was the proper speed working well with the design. Now I know this doesn't sound like much but when you put it all together, it is more that you think,

By now you have already completed for the project, (1) the item prepared and already centered for your design (2) your thread colors set up on your Thread Pilot (3) your design(s) re-sized and moved to your machine (4) sewn out with your test sew (5) the stabilizers chosen (6) needle type (7) made any necessary changes in the design, needles and stabilizers (8) prepared the hoop for the actual project (9) saved it to the machine (10) wound your bobbins (11) moved everything where you need it to be for the actual project.

Now you are ready to sew the design to the actual project. By doing all of this as you go along, it will save you so much time, instead of going back and doing them later. When you do that, you are actually performing the same tasks twice!

This is called "Time Management". It is very important in everything we do, especially if you are still a working person and have little time to sew as it is. While working in the factory I learned really fast how to make the most of the time available to sew. You see, in doing this type of sewing everything is based on time. How long does it take for each step you are performing, and how many can a person do in an hour. By watching ourselves, and how we do certain things, we can improve on how we do them. The best way to do this, short of videotaping yourself, is to keep a written journal of the steps you take when doing your ME or sewing. Just number the paper from 1 to 25 and jot down each step as you do it, to complete a project. Once you have it in writing, it is easy to see how many steps it takes you to complete this project and what you can do to save yourself some time. There is something about having it in writing that makes you aware of the steps you have made to get the most out of your time. Many of us spend more time getting ready to sew than actually sewing, me included at times! (We won't go there!) 

I stack all items within easy reach, most of the time I don't even get up from my chair, except to do a thread change. I clip the thread as close to the Thread Pilot as I can and still get it into the tension spring, then tie the new color to the previously used one, then pull all of it through to the needle, thread the needle and start again. Rather than having to completely re-thread every time I have to change a color.

I keep all of my stabilizers at the right of the machine and have them low enough that I can cut them from the wall unit. All of my thread is behind the machine, but the frequently used ones are at my right hand side. All of my scissors I keep on the right of my machine, as well as the bobbins I will be needing for the project, and my Sidewinder. Extra needles in the right hand drawer, as well as the screwdriver I use for my hoops and needles. The trash basket is also to the right of me within easy reach to discard anything I need to. If I am sewing multiple items, I keep them to the left of me so I can grab them easily. the main thing to remember is keep everything within easy reach and close proximity of your machine, without getting too cluttered. As you all know , though this is only a small part of the tips and tricks i was referring to, not necessarily a shortcut but more like training yourself to be more aware of what tasks you are performing and how you are completing each one.

Now here is the project I promised you all! I would like to take this opportunity to introduce you to one of our Central Florida Gals, so:

Introducing Norrie and her Laundry Hamper/ Diaper Stacker!                                                                                                         Norrie brought this project to the luncheon we had, and I thought it was really cool and different, not something everyone would think to embroider on for sure! The good news is that it has a dual purpose, it can be a laundry hamper or diaper stacker. It would be really awesome as a personal baby shower gift, or just to give to your kids to entice them to clean up their rooms! ( yeah right) I would also imagine that it could be used to store toys in as well - you could even personalize it for them.

To complete this project you will need:

1 Mesh Type Pop-up Laundry Basket

Ann The Gran's Happy Animals Design Set

1 Piece of Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer/Adhesive Back

1 Piece of Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer for the toping

Catalog Xpress

The first thing to do is to turn the laundry hamper inside out. I made the design larger with Catalog Express, so it would better suit the size of the embroidery field. Now cut a piece of Ann The Gran's Water Soluble/Adhesive Back and put it on your hoop by peeling the backing off part of the way so you can attach it to the bottom of the hoop. Lay it on  your work area and then pull the rest of the backing off so as to attach it the rest of the way on the hoop, making sure it is a snug fit on the hoop, with no wrinkles. Cut off the excess stabilizer, making sure it fits snugly on your hoop and won't slip in any way. Next lay your laundry basket onto the sticky surface and smooth out gently with your hands to attach the two together. Now lay on your piece of Ann The Gran's Water Soluble Stabilizer and fit your hoop together, making sure it is smooth and gently smoothing it with your hands. (I will be honest with you, you may need the help of someone depending on your hoop type to help you tighten the hoop) Snug your hoop together as tightly as you can without stripping the screw; it must be fairly tight or it will pop out of the hoop. You are now ready to position it on the machine and lock it in, being careful not to pop the hoop. I also slowed my machine speed down as I thought it would aide in the stitching out so as not to jar it too much and pop the hoop. I used a "Sharps" needle because of the type of material it was being sewn on.

      This is what it should look like after hooping it. (Photo courtesy of: Norrie)

I then began stitching the design to the basket.

Once it got started good I then was able to take a bit of a break until the color change.   

 (Photos courtesy of T. Alcumbrack)

It was not too bad clipping the threads, and changing colors, at least not as bad as I first thought. Thanks to Norrie for supplying me with the directions and some photos so I knew how to do this project.

All you do when the design is complete is to turn the basket right side out. Here is the finished product, a cute and lovable Kangaroo and Baby! Perfect for a diaper stacker!

 It was an enjoyable project that is easily completed in an hour or less by anyone from beginner to seasoned ME'er! I purposely chose a design with very few color changes, as I think with this project it is much better with having to reach inside the basket to clip threads and do colors changes. I found Ann's Designs a joy to sew as well, they had only one time I actually had to trim a jump thread. Thanks Ann for designing the animals to sew out with few jump threads. Ann always makes it so easy for me to do a project!!

A special Thanks to Norrie for her idea, and the use of her photos and directions. For taking the time to do this so I could feature her in this blog, she is a very busy lady so for her to do this was extra special for me!

Suzy's Tip Of The Week!       By keeping your sewing room clean, it is a huge time saver! I like to clean up after every time in there, that way I know where things are when I return to it. Not having to look for everything when you begin is a big time saver as well. You can actually start your project instead of having to clean up before you begin. I know if you are like me you would rather be sewing than cleaning, but trust me it is worth the effort!

Judy/AKA Suzy!   

                                                                          Remember to kiss someone you love today!

Selvage: The edge of a piece of fabric, to prevent unraveling and is cut off before you start sewing. It also provides information about the fabrics such as design, manufacturer, colors in the fabric and the direction of the design or pattern.

Hem: a finished edge, usually folded under and stitched also referred to as the bottom edge.

Notch: On a concave curve, to make clips to allow for flattening the seam

Til Next Time>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Happy Stitchin!

Now that we are formally introduced, I am going to be talking about some pretty basic things this time. At least for those of you that have been around for a while,with not only ME, but sewing in general. The following is a list of sewing terms that may help clarify more easily for you both in ME and regular sewing, on a regular basis:

Basting Stitch> Is the longest stitch on the machine, and is used to hold the fabric in place, so you can sew out your design without everything shifting.

Bias> The diagonal of the weave or a line across the grain of the fabric, drawn at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge; cloth cut on the bias will stretch, allowing for smoother fit around curves.

Selvage> the edge of a piece of fabric, finished by the manufacturer to prevent unraveling, and provide information as to the manufacturer, colors in the fabric and the direction of the design or pattern.

Tension> the balance between the bobbin and the needle threads on a sewing machine, correct tension ensures a perfect stitch.

Right Side> The patterned, printed, or figured side of a piece of fabric, the side that is intended to show.

The reason for this is to familiarize yourself with some basics of sewing principles. I am a firm believer that before we can apply too many shortcuts, we must first learn some of the basics. Why is this important? It is important to learn some of these techniques so when buying fabric, it gives more of an idea what to look for. When you start a project, you should know what you are going to need to complete the project from start to finish. It is also important to know what and how much/many materials you will need before going to shop for this project. This way you can do the complete project the most efficient and cost effective way for all of our budgets. Last but not least, you know how to cut the fabric to suit your needs for this particular project idea. As with any thing else with ME, or sewing, it does require some planning.

Now come the questions>>>How much am I going to need? 1 yard for a simple framed picture, or 3 yards for a wall hanging. Is this a very stretchy fabric? Like a t-shirt material, so you know what type of stabilizers to use, as well as needle choice. How wide is it? Fabric comes in various widths, so the wider, the more you will get out of it. What is the density (stitch count) of the design, and is it suitable for the chosen fabric? This is important to get the maximum effect, we need a fabric that can withstand the density of the design you have chosen. For instance, on a thin flour sack towel, I would choose a design like either a vintage or redwork, something that is light and airy. If you put something heavier than that on it, you are setting yourself up for disaster. For clothing I would use a design that is a bit light and airy, but that has more substance than a vintage design.

Very important as most of us (me included) want to put some of those high density, beautiful designs on something that just will not withstand it. Remember, you cannot change the makeup of the fabric that you are using, You can only stabilize it to hold the chosen design. In short, the fabric is what it is, you can't change that fact. I once had a very smart lady tell me that you can never over-stabilize a design! You can ,however under stabilize it.

What am I going to do with it? What project do you have in mind for this particular fabric, a wall hanging , or a quilt block? All these things are questions to ask yourself before sitting down at the machine. Most important question a lot of us ME folks who hoard fabric ask is, "when am I going to use this fabric"? The answer is, "Oh sometime in the future", and "Oh I know what the perfect thing is for this". With us that could take a while! These are all things we should ask ourselves when shopping for fabric. I like to get extra, so if I need 1 yard I get 4........See what I mean! Sound familiar?

The next is cutting. Why is that important? A mistake in cutting cannot be taken out like a poorly sewn seam. With an expensive fabric it can become costly in a hurry. a very wise person told me long ago, "Measure twice, Cut once!" Words to live by in my book! I keep a note pinned in my sewing room to remind myself of this every time I go to cut anything. OK, is it obvious that I have a lot of sticky notes everywhere in my sewing room?

A good measuring tool is the lip Edge Ruler. A lot of quilters use them, they are worth whatever you pay for them! I use mine for almost everything! The reason for that is that it will lay flat on your cutting mat and hold the fabric in place so you can take your rotary cutting tool and follow along the edge for a perfect cut every time. Again, planning is the key. There are many types of cutting tools, the most popular is the rotary, the cutting mat and the lip edge ruler. It is also likely the easiest to use.                                                          

Also with ME, I cannot stress enough how important it is to do a "Test Sew"! I have heard many excuses for not doing this. For me, it is a necessity! It tells you so much about not only the design, the weight of the combination of the design and the fabric, how they blend together, your stabilizer,h ow much and what type to use, colors, size of design, and yes even the needle type you should use! There are two mistakes that you can avoid, the first is Not making a sample, with your actual fabric, threads, and stabilizer you plan to use. Remember that everything shrinks at a different rate, and can leave your garment puckered and unwearable. The second is start ME'ing a design, only to realize too late that the design is not placed exactly where you wanted it. One way to predict how the embroidery will look and a way to place it on the garment; First, make your test sample, but don't remove it from the hoop, use chalk or rinseable marker, to draw a line around the inside wall of the hoop directly on the sample. Then remove the hoop, cut out the sample along the chalk line, and position it on the garment. Pin in place, mark along the edge of the sample directly on the garment (use only removable chalk or marker). When you remove the sample the remaining chalk circle is a perfect guide for placing the hoop to begin your embroidery, ensuring the design is exactly where you want it. I would rather lose a $5.00 piece of fabric rather than a $65.00 jacket. All it really costs me is some time and some thread, but I have guaranteed myself a beautiful, completely wearable garment!

Suzy's Tip Of The Week!: Keep an Excel sheet of all of your thread colors and manufacturers, along with all of your sewing and ME needs. When you start running out, you can simply go to your sheet on the computer and put a mark next to the things you need, including, stabilizers (you get from ATG of course!),needles (what type and size), ribbons, elastic and so on. Add anything you may need either from the fabric store or online store. Print it out and take it with you. It is a wonderful time saver. The most effort you will put into it is at the very beginning when first making your list. Any trip to either the fabric store or online store is a breeze as it is all right in front of you including upc codes, manufacturers and where you got it from!

Remember to K.I.S.S  someone you love today!

Judy/AKA Suzy !

Hopefully some of you already know who I am from popping in and out of the forums and blogs. For those of you that don't, this will introduce us to each other. Many of you have asked me how I first got started, not only with ME, but sewing in general. So, here it is! You can blame my Grandmother! Of course you all realize that this will squash all of those cool rumors out there.

I first got started as a very young girl with my Grandmother. My Mom had an old treadle machine, exactly like the one pictured above, that to my knowledge, she never used. I don't think I ever even saw her as much as sew on a button. So I had to depend on Granny to learn from. Every day after school, (yes we did walk to and fro then) I stopped in for cookies (still warm from the oven, no less). Since I was making a nuisance of myself, she decided it was time for me to learn to do something constructive. I finished my first little quilt (with Granny's help) at the ripe old age of 9. She also taught me how to use Mom's sewing machine that had sat idle for so long. That was it, I was hooked! I didn't realize at the time that I would someday make my living from sewing. Since then I have worked on everything from Auto Parts to Zippers.

I went to work in the early 70's for a major auto company sewing parts for car seats, vinyl roofing, and leather interiors. This is where I learned that while they are still sewing machines, they were not only faster but unforgiving. A commercial machine is probably 2 to 3 times faster than your home sewing machine. On the up side, Wow! On the down side, you are expected to sew 2 to 3 times more product to go with it. We will touch more on that in the next few writings, when they apply to subject matter. From there I went to making baby clothing in a local factory - gee I loved that job! I worked 4 days per week, 10 hours per day. When the company left, I went to work for a company that did design and embroidery - it is a real Hoot working on a 15 needle machine! Then when that company moved to another state, I worked for an office furniture company in the veneer room, later moving into the sewing area. They made seat and back covers for office chairs, bulletin boards, and various other components of the industry. I stayed there until 2001, when I retired.(Not!)

What I hope to accomplish is to present to you a few hints, tips, tricks, and lots of shortcuts, to make the most of your time in the sewing room. Hence the name of  the blog, "Stitchin Shortcuts!". When you have upward of 1500 or more items per day to complete, you learn things to make the process go faster, smoother, and more efficiently. The most I have completed in one day is 3000. Without these shortcuts and tricks, it would have been an impossible task.

I like to work with K.I.S.S. (No not the rock band!)  It stands for "Keep It Simple Suzy!" The simpler we keep something, the faster,easier,and more efficient it becomes. I am the person who is always looking for a simpler, faster way to do things, with the least amount of stress to the body. Without compromising quality, of course. It also means I will be including different tools that I use to make my life easier. You will be hearing more about K.I.S.S. in the future, so stay tuned! I would also like to have some fun along the way - those of you that know me know that, for me, life is about having fun!

I would like to include within these postings, some of the things that our Group is working on. As I am sure many of you know, we got together for a lunch/meeting to inaugurate a first on AnnTheGran, the Central Florida Machine Embroiderers Group ! Wow! Is that a mouthful or what?! Now I see why we abbreviate it to CFMEG! This was a very informal, relaxed meeting, plus we helped Ann celebrate her birthday.

Photos courtesy of T.Alcumbrack & E&B Sherrard

Each person was asked to bring something that they had made, either sewing, embroidery, or both. Or something they were just darn proud of! (they should be!). The items I saw from this simple request, I must say brought tears to my eyes. You could just see and feel the love in that room. It was such a wonderful heart-warming experience. This group, made up from a great group of folks from all over  Central Florida, started from somene asking a simple question in a forum and it exploded into what we have today. Now the AnnTheGran site has a new section atop their Home Page called "Groups", thanks to all the great people in this forum! They even have their own logo, digitized by a couple of  the group's members! I hope to, in the coming weeks and months, bring you, as a feature some, if not all of the items that were presented that day. This has got to be one of the most incredible things I have had the pleasure of witnessing in a very long time. I strongly urge everyone to do this in your own areas. Just pop a new post in one of the forums, and ask one question,"how many in my area?" and wait for someone to answer. Have patience, as it may take some time for folks to see it, but it can turn into something wonderful for you, not to mention all the new friends you will end up with, sharing a common interest. If you get the chance, go check out the photos in the Media area.

I want to mention the Charity idea we are working on within the CFMEG. We are in the process of picking one, if not more, charities to make items for, and donate to. I encourage other groups that form to adopt this idea. It not only makes your heart feel good, it does so much and really makes a difference in someone's life. I believe that Charity begins with each of us, one person can do a little, together we can do a lot!

I welcome any questions,comments, or ideas you may have, either that you wish to share or would like me to cover in this blog. I am usually lurking about in many of the forums, and now in the newly formed "Groups" section. Join one of those discussions, or start a new discussion if you would like to. I also hope many others will join in and share with us their experiences, ideas, comments, and questions, as well as their project photos. I will do my best to share with you all, my knowledge (However limited).

Suzy's Tip Of The Week!      It is a good idea to take a tiny bit of either hair clipper oil, or sewing machine oil, and place it on your scissors, trying to get some into the mechanism area. Work the handles of the scissor, so it can work itself into that area really well. Take a soft cloth, being careful not to cut yourself, and wipe away the oil from them, making sure to get most if not all of the oil off them. Using a piece of scrap fabric, cut through it several times to remove any leftover oil. This aids in keeping them well lubricated, as well as keeping anything from building up on them, such as rust or gunk from daily use. Sometimes there are tiny gouges in the blades that cannot be seen, so rust can and will form in these areas even though they are stainless. Once the factory coating is compromised it can happen. Sewing machine and clipper oil is a very light weight oil that can easily be removed, but keeps your scissors working great!

Signing off until next time.............................................."Happy Stitchin'!"        Remember to K.I.S.S. someone close to you every day!

Judy ( Yes I get to be Suzy too!)