September 2008 - Posts

• The Spool Mini-Series

  Hello all of you Happy Stitcher's! Wow, can you believe it? This is the 5th edition of this blog! It is hard for me to imagine that I have written 5 already! It sure doesn't seem like it at all. I guess that must mean I enjoy what I do and sharing this wonderful craft with everyone! This will be part 1 of a series about thread. I say part 1 because when I first started to do research for this post, I thought to myself, "How much can I say about thread"? As I was getting into it, I realized that there is more to thread than meets the "eye"! (yeah, well, we have to get our laughs where we can!) I know it is probably not high on your priority list of things to read, but it should be! With what we do it is one of the most important items of our wonderful craft, whether Sewing, Quilting, or Embroidery. I realize that right now you are thinking what is so exciting about thread, am I correct? Without it, we would not be able to enjoy many of the things that we do today, such as clothing, furniture, bed linens, and so on. The list is huge! I can sometime imagine what the Eskimos must have had to do just to sew one simple garment to wear. They first had to either grind sections of fish bones into a very simple needle, called an "Awl", to use to attach their garments together. It was usually 2 to 6 inches in length. Or sometimes they may use a sharpened splinter of hardwood or a polished piece of ivory. Needles were prized possessions, with a hole chipped into one end and were as fine as the ones we use today.Using the large tendons of a deer, elk, or moose, then drying it. Once dried, they would either chew it or pound it to get it soft enough to use, then shred it. This was called "Sinew". The most common stitch used then was the running stitch. It is hard to imagine that today as now we simply go to the local fabric shop and choose from many varieties of needles. I imagine it was likely about the same for the American Indians also. I have had a lot of people ask me how they can ensure they are getting a good spool of thread. The best way to tell is pull some off the spool, then hold it up to the light. Really look at it, if it appears to be what I call " thick and thin" then it is not a good spool. If it appears to look frayed in any way, I would go to another spool. Just because it is a name brand thread, does not mean that every spool that comes off the assembly line is a good spool. When you get a spool like this chances are it will be constantly breaking or fraying during use. Here are some microscopic photo's of some common embroidery threads.    Isacord              Mettler Metrosene                        Sulky Rayon                                                                                       Photo's courtesy of about.com  Madeira Metallic It is easy once you really look at the different types of thread the differences between them. A good buy on thread sometimes is always not a "good buy". I have a whole box of thread I purchased on the INTERNET very cheap. Needless to say that is exactly what I received, a box of cheap thread! You get what you pay for and in this case I should have run away from the site! If the price is too good to be true, that is likely what it is, not true! This stuff was so bad that I actually pull it off the spools, cut it up and let the neighborhood birds use for nest construction, along with the hair I chop off hubby's head! That is really all it is good for. At least the neighborhood is colorful! So if you go to the fabric store and see some spools of thread with a few inches of thread pulled off, you will know why. As far as how long a spool of thread is good for? Until you use it up! For me that usually isn't long enough to worry about it going bad! I have had some of it for quite a while, maybe 4 or more years (Thread Sale!), they are colors that you wouldn't use that often. However, thread can rot over a long period of time and when exposed to direct sunlight. I like to keep mine covered with some old towels I have for that reason. It also helps in keeping any dust off of it as well. Dust Can build up on it and cause problems for not only your sewing machine but it can cause it to break a lot also, at least until the dusty part is used up. Sometimes if I have left it out in the open for a period of time, I will pull off several inches of the thread and get rid of it. The best I have used is Madeira(of course, I wish I could afford more of it),Sulky,Isafil, Isacord, Robison Anton, and Janome. Sometimes if I am looking for a specific color that I cannot find in the brands I like I will use Mettler, or Gutterman.Of course you all know that thread also comes in many different weights,as does bobbin thread as well.Ranging from 30,40,50,60 and many more different weights. A lot of the weight measurement depends on the manufacturer. They all seem to have their own weight system as well as their own color system. Then of course you have the option of Rayon, Poly, Metallic,Cotton, Monofiliment, Neon, Silk, Solar Active, Glow In The Dark, Shrinking Thread, Variegated, Hologram, and Maxi Lock for sergers. This doesn't include all that is out there. Cotton thread is generally used for quilting. I have used monofiliment, but really don't like it that much. Each has it's own Characteristics for use. We haven't even gotten into the bobbin threads yet, which they also have different weights and grades like sewing threads.I have a certain bobbin thread I like and works very well in my particular machine, as I am sure most of you have found also. The one I use comes in three colors, black, tan, and white. This is another case where I strongly recommend that you go to your manual and see what the manufacturer says to use. Sometimes if I have issues with thread it is usually related to the type of thread being used. Now we get into the Metallic threads, of which there are many different brands. The best way I have used metallic is by placing it in a coffee cup behind my machine, then running it over the top of my Thread Pilot, so it has a chance to relax a bit while using it. I also lower the speed of my machine to the slowest I have. (around 400) It is one of the most difficult to use for many folks. Patience is the key when using metallic thread! This for me has by far been the best method. Everyone generally comes up with a method that works for them and their brand of machine,I say stick with what you know works for you and your equipment! I always prefer to pay the extra money to buy a good Metallic thread as well. It is worth the extra money you pay for it, for ease of use and less breakage. I have used the less expensive brands, without much sauces. I will also pay the extra money for a good poly or rayon either one. It just makes sense to use the ones that give you the best results, with the least amount of breakage. It is also the best way I know of to guarantee success and a professional looking item. I will say though, for you to stop and think about how many different places that the thread passes through before it gets to your needle. Back in the old days, you could actually see these parts and your tension disks. Now they are housed inside a covering to protect them from dust and dirt collecting on them. The down side to this is that you cannot see what is happening either. If you are not buying a good quality thread you may even be causing damage to the tension disks, eventually causing it not to maintain the proper tension. Are you really willing to risk the investment you have involved in your machine to save a few bucks on cheap thread? It can be an extremely costly repair bill, or worse yet, have to buy a new machine. The next issue will go into more detail of the different types of threads and their uses,and there are many! I have just "scratched" the surface of it. At this point I could go on and on, but I see you are starting to doze off on me so, instead I would like to introduce you to another one of our Central Florida ladies. Meet Kathlene Bradford! She has recently had an article published in the SAGA (Smocking Arts Guild Of America) magazine's recent issue. If you click on her name it will take you to the media section where you can see a photo of her and what she does. If you go here, you can read the article about her, and the charity that is near and dear to her heart! It will not only bring a tear to your eyes, but will introduce you to someone who knows the meaning of giving, and how to get it done! Congratulations Kath, I am so proud to call you "Friend".   That's it for me, so until next time>>>>>>>>>>>> Happy Stitchin! Judy      Remember to Kiss someone you love today!   Suzy's Tip Of The Week:   When sewing slippery fabrics, pinning it is still the best method to hold it in place. it does take a lot of time but it is still faster than tearing out the seams and starting over. another method I have used and works quite well, is use a fusible tape along the seam allowance, then basting it. I really prefer the pinning method, i know it is the old fashioned approach, but that is what I have had the best luck with.   Fuse:>>>>> To fuse; means to glue two layers of fabric together, usually with an iron Interfacing:>>> Is a non visible addition to fabric that adds body to an item, that the fabric alone doesn't have. Appliqué':>>>> Is attaching a small piece of fabric to a larger piece of fabric to form a specific design or art.     Posted Sep 26 2008, 10:05 AM by jalcumbrack with 24 comment(s) Filed under: tricks, hints, machine embroidery, Charity, sewing, Stitchin' Shortcuts, tips, shortcuts, Suzy's Tip Of The Week, SAGA, Robison Anton, Thread Pilot, applique', Smocking, interfacing, fuse

• Gizmos, Squissors, And Feed Dogs

  You had all better put on a pot of coffee and grab a couple of danish for this folks!It is going to be a long one this time, I have so much to share with you! First I would like to start with a brief history lesson. Did you know that the first commercially successful sewing machine was built in the 1850's? Before that there were a few others that had patents, some did not on similar types, but it was Issac Singer who really brought it to fruition. He also invented the up and down motion of the needle, while others had it moving side to side. He also copied the idea of Elias Howe by using the lock stitch and the eye pointed needle, and lost a lawsuit against him by Howe and had to pay him royalties for patent infringement. We still use these methods today. In 1863 Ebenezer and Augusta Butterick invented the idea of using tissue paper for patterns, and in 1867 formed a company to get them into every home in America. They changed sewing forever with their first graded pattern. These are just a few fun facts that I thought you would enjoy!     This is a clothing label from one of the first mass produced articles of clothing in the 1860's. Now I can move on to the real reason for the history lesson, and that is I am going to be discussing sewing machines and their parts. Parts is Parts, as they say! Another reason for the lesson is to show how far we have come since the first sewing machines were invented. We went from deciding whether a needle should move side to side or up and down to computerized machines. Back in the early days when I first began sewing, you could actually see the working parts of the machines, which really made them easier to take care of than the ones we have now. However since they still need some care, but for the most part we cannot do much of the repair work ourselves. It has to be done by an experienced technician. We can make sure that the working parts we can see are well cared for, such as the bobbin casing area. I like to take it apart and clean it out once in a while, of course it will depend on how much you use your machine as to how often you should do this. When you do take it apart, Do Not Blow it out with any type of air hose or Duster! All that does is is push it further into the inner workings of your machine and can cause problems. I like to take a 1" paint brush and sweep away as much as I can out of the casing area. Then I take an artists brush( less than1/2"one) and put the tiniest bit of sewing machine oil on it and lightly brush the inner workings of it, and any visible moving parts. I also take my paint brush and clean off around the needle area, then take the needle out and use the other oiled brush to very lightly brush around that area. I also move the hand wheel a little so it moves then I can oil all the moving parts. Keep in mind that the machines of today use far less oil than even a few years ago, so very ,very lightly with it please. Now lets talk about the feed dog! No I don't mean go and feed the dog! The feed dog on your sewing machine, and how important it is to Not force anything through it. By forcing fabric through it you can bend the needle without even realizing it, until it is too late. The operator must let the machine do it's work. That means letting the feed dog pull the fabric through the machine. We are there to serve as the machines guide. A bent needle can cause so may problems with your machines, so if you think you may have bent the needle in any way, Change it! If you hear something like a "hitting" sound when you sew, stop the machine immediately and change the needle, even if your thread keeps breaking for no apparent reason, change it! If you don't it can become a costly repair bill in a hurry!   These are my two machines. (see my sticky notes Ha!)   To learn the parts of your particular machine, look inside your manual and you will see a drawing with numbers on it, each number is representative of a part for your machine. You should always take the time to read through this, so you know where all the parts are. I can show you mine, but it won't do you much good for your brand of machine, even though they are basically the same, they are different. Alright , enough with the history lesson and the machines for a bit! I have had the opportunity the last few weeks to use some new tools. One of them, get this, is called"Squissors" or squeeze snips, and are the ones I have heard some chatter about lately,so I had to try them! Oh My Stitches!! I am here to tell you that even if you have the slightest bit of arthritis or carpel tunnel, you have got to get a pair of these! They are light weight, and extremely easy to use and are very easy on your hands! I got two pair, one with pointed ends and one with rounded ends.     The pointed end ones were Wonderful, and very sharp, ( I know they shouldn't have given me any sharp objects!) They are really wonderful for trimming those pesky jump threads and get really close when you are trimming anything from the embroidery at all. I defiantly give those a thumbs up ! You have to put these on your list of must have gizmo's! They are very nicely priced as well! The rounded ones I thought would be excellent for cut work, and they did exactly what I thought they would do. They are also very sharp and are really designed for appliqué but they are also wonderful for cut work, being rounded you don't have to worry about them catching on any of the threads and accidental pulling them up. You can get really close to the embroidery again, without having to worry too much. I give these a thumbs up as well! These should also go on your list of gizmo must haves as well! They are also very nicely priced! Now, LaRue you are going to love this one!! It is called a "Hera Marker."          Before "Hera Marker"     After "Hera Marker"  As you can see by the photo's that there is a definite crease in the fabric. I tried to use it on one that was a bit darker so it was visible for you. I tried it on several different types of fabric, as well as different colors. While it won't work for fabrics like fleece, it did work on everything else I tried it on. The mark really stays on the fabrics, so I am thinking it would be great to mark out the fabric and use this to get a straight cutting line. You could actually mark all of your fabric then cut it out later. I am also thinking that it would work for tracing around the outline for placement of designs onto items. I tried and it worked pretty good for placement. Rather than pinning paper to the garment you could use this marker and not have to worry about it leaving some sort of residue behind on your garment. I think it would be wonderful for endless hooping projects as well as for Quilting! I found it easy to use and hang onto as well, with the arthritic hands. This product also gets a big thumbs up!! Kudos to the inventor on this one! I highly recommend this product! Very inexpensive item to add to the list of gizmos! So stay tuned folks! I will let you know when I try new products and will also let you know that if they make a claim as to what it will do, I will let you know if it really does! Sort of like the Ralph Nader of sewing!! Now on to the fun stuff, Sewing and ME, my two favorite combinations!! I have had a lot of folks ask me about the Flour Sack Towels, so here they are!! All I do when doing them is first to find the center.  Then I stabilize the hoop with Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer with adhesive.   Then I center it on the hoop,using the marking on my hoop as a guide. Smoothing out with my hands gently to set the adhesive and get out all the wrinkles.   I then set it on my machine and add the top layer of Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer for the topping.  Then I just let it sew out the designs, I used Ann The Gran Floral Butterfly Redwork Design Pack for this one,I love the way it sewed out and I also added lettering( thanks Cathy for this idea) with Alphabet Xpress,then hit the 3D feature on it, it turned out really nice.  I love Ann's Redwork, it sews out beautifully for flour sack towels. For the second set I did I used Ann's Jacobean Style Design Pack, and it turned out fabulous,the colors are spectacular as well and will spice up any kitchen for sure!   I love using Ann's designs, they always sew out well, they work well on any type of fabric and they never have a lot of jump threads. That's a good thing! I also love the bright colors ! That is just how easy the flour sack towels are. With Ann's Water soluble with adhesive it makes fast work of them for sure. The red work one took 18 minutes to sew out, and I found that they are exceptional redwork designs and the Jacobean one took 38 minutes, so not very time consuming for a great gift! When finished, you just cut off the excess stabilizer, wash the rest of it off then launder, press, done! This project is fast and easy! Alright, I told you it was a long one this time, Whew! Did you get to all of your danish?! So that is it for me this time, I hope you all enjoyed your Holiday weekend and I will see you next time ! Judy Suzy's Tip Of The Week>>>>> Keeping your thread organized according to color will make your work faster. By color coding them you need only to glance at them to know which color you will need for your project. It is a lot of work to do this but will save so much time later that it will be well worth it ! Take care everyone...........til next time.........Remember to kiss someone you love today!   Happy Stitchin'! Posted Sep 10 2008, 06:20 AM by jalcumbrack with 19 comment(s) Filed under: tricks, hints, Stitchin' Shortcuts, tips, shortcuts, Ann The Gran Water Soluble Stabilizer, Kiss, Ann the Gran water soluble/adhesive, 3D feature Alphabet Xpress, Squissors, Suzy's Tip Of The Week, Hera Marker, Alphabet Xpress, Ann The Gran Jacobean Design Pack, Ann The Gran Redwork Designs