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LaRueSews-Quilts

Quilting Hows and How To's

February 2009 - Posts

  • LaRueSews-Quilts-Square it up!

    OK, Everybody, If you have followed this blog from the beginning, and have been making quilt block as we go, you should now have enough block to make into a quilt. “How do I do that?” someone says.  Well, that’s the purpose of this blog.  Let’s put those little buggers all together and make ourselves a quilt.

    SQUARE ‘EM UP - I don’t think we have talked about a “square-up” ruler yet.  This is a ruler that we use to make sure that all of the blocks are as close as possible to the same size.  These rulers come in many sizes, from 2 ½ in. To 18 ½ in.  Good sizes to have in your tool chest are a 6 ½ inch and a 12 ½ in.   The smaller one is good to have just for cutting smaller size block pieces.  The 12 ½ in. square-up is the one you’ll need for squaring up your blocks.  Creative Grids rulers are a good brand to use and are available in many quilt shops.  They have frosted dots on the back of them to keep the rulers from slipping.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and uses. You can see them at this web site.

    After you have made your blocks, and before assembling them into a quilt, it’s a good idea to make them as nearly square as possible.  When your blocks are all of a uniform size, the finished quilt will lay more flat and it will be easier to quilt.  Take each block individually, and lay the square-up ruler on top.  Let’s use a 12 ½ in. block for an example.  Lay the ruler on the block and line up two sides of the block evenly with two square sides of the ruler.  Take a look at the opposite edges of the block. 

    Square the block

    Are they even with the edges of the ruler?  Or are they too large or too small.  If there are diagonal lines in the block, is there a 1/4 inch seam allowance left where the diagonals meet so that a seam can be sewn, leaving the points of the diagonal in tack?  When making block with triangles, or diamonds, or other similar meeting points at the block edge, it is important to have the 1/4 inch allowance so that the point of the seam is not “lost” in the seam.
    When blocks are sewn together, there are several factors to keep in mind as you sew the blocks together.  Be sure that you make accurate 1/4 inch seams so that they will a fit together well.  When sewing blocks have opposing triangle pieces, use pins at each intersecting point to make sure that the points come together well.   Tweezer tip marks where to place the pin. 

    intersecting point
     When the blocks are assembled, you want to have all the points in block pieces to show up as “points”, not blunt end points.  The first photo shows a block that has all the points.  None have been "blunted" by sewing inside the point.  In the second photo I have marked with purple marker where the seams come together on the sewn seams.  The stitching line is slightly above the point, making the point show corectly on the front.

    block with points

    When you sew the blocks together, it’s a good idea to pin the blocks together to prevent shifting, making the end of the seams uneven.  Sew a whole row of blocks together and press all the seams in one direction.  After sewing the second row together, press all the seams in that row in the opposite direction.  Alternate the direction of pressing seams with each row of blocks.  When each rows is sewn together, pin the intersecting seams so that the seam allowances lay opposite each other.  This makes the seams lie flatter.  I have said before that it’s not a good idea to press the seams open because it makes it easy for the batting to migrate through the seam allowance, leaving pilling on the top of the quilt.  Press carefully.  Good pressing contributes to the success of any project.

    There is quite a bit of "wordiness" in this blog.  Some of the things I write about are things that I have learned by word of mouth from quilting teachers in classes.  They are a little difficult to explain without an in-person show-and-tell.  But they are things that contribute to a more beautiful quilt.  I hope I have made them understandable.

    After my last blog, I said that I would research and answer a couple questions:
    In a recent blog comment, Rosie asked about block size.  I’m not really sure what she wanted to know, but I’ll try.  If this doesn’t help, please let me know.  Block size is most often dictated by the pattern you have chosen.  A particular pattern is usually based on a certain size block or combination of blocks to achieve the finished intent.  Sometimes you will find books that allow you to choose the size block, depending on the size quilt, but not often.  I own a small book called “Quick and Easy Block Tool”.  It is in a handy card format, with a corner pin binding it.  It has rotary-cutting measurements for 102 blocks, with cutting directions for each block from 3 inches to 12 or 15 inches.  It is a quick and simple way to have directions for a whole lot of blocks in one place.  It is shown at this web address.

    Jelly Rolls are a collection of fabrics from one designer that are die-cut into 2 ½ inch strips and rolled together to resemble a bakery product and tied with a ribbon, etc.  Layer cakes are a larger version of charm squares, usually 10 ½ inch squares that are also a collection of fabrics from one designer.  They are stacked up to resemble a layer cake.  Charm squares are 5 or 5 ½ inch (not sure which) squares.  They have been around for a long time.  Quilting groups often cut these squares themselves and exchange them between members.  Quilt manufacturers and shops began packaging them for sale as groups.  All of these are a good way to get all the fabrics as a collection for a quilt made of coordinating fabrics.

    Next time, I’ll talk about borders.  Please let me know if you have questions.  I’ll be glad to answer, or find the answer if I don’t know.  Don't forget Florida in March.  Check it out.

    Stitches to you,

    LaRue

    Quilter’s Jargon:
    Jelly Rolls are a collection of fabrics from one designer that are die-cut into 2 ½ inch strips and rolled together to be used together to resemble a bakery product and tied with a ribbon, etc.

    Layer cakes are a larger version of charm squares, usually 10 ½ inch squares that are also a collection of fabrics from one designer.  They are stacked up to resemble a layer cake.

    Charm squares are 5 or 5 ½ inch (not sure which) squares.  They have been around for a long time.  Quilting groups often cut these squares themselves and exchange them between members.

  • LaRueSews-Quilts - Tricky Triangles

    Hi there, all of you Ann the Gran readers.  Welcome back to LaRueSews-quilts.  This is a bright and sunny day in east central, Alabama.  It is, however a bit chilly outside.  But I guess that’s better than cold, cloudy and rainy.

    I have said before, and I’d like to say again that I am not an expert.  I am not a quilting teacher, though I have taught a few classes.  My purpose here is to tell you about the knowledge I have of quilting.  You may take or leave whatever you wish.  There are no quilt police, so do it your way.  But it is good to have some basic knowledge from someone who has learned from years of trial and error.  You will make mistakes, just as in ME.  But you will learn from every mistake you make.  Just a thought here. . .it wouldn’t hurt to keep a notebook of mistakes so you will remember how to fix the disasters, no matter how large or small.

    There is a rather major/minor area that I haven’t talked about yet that some of you would probably like to try. But since I have never been good with triangles, I’ll just tell you what I know.  Triangles, half triangle, and quarter triangles involve math and a good general knowledge of rotary cutting.  It’s a good idea to either take a class, join a guild where basic quilting is taught or buy a really good book.  I have steered clear of triangles, most of the time, unless the cutting instructions leave no question at all about how to do them. Or, if the instructions include templates for cutting the triangles.

    I will see if I can take you through some basic knowledge of triangles.  The most used shape in quilting is the square, with triangles a close second.  Triangles can be cut in two ways.  The most common is cutting half-square triangles.   This triangle is made by cutting a square one time, on the diagonal, from one corner, to the opposing corner.  This triangle has two short sides, or legs, that are cut on the straight grain.

    Square

    Half Square Triangles

    The second triangle method is called the quarter-square triangle.  They are cut quickly, by cutting a square twice, in opposing diagonals, yielding four triangles.  This triangle is used when the straight grain side of the triangle is on the edge of the quilt.  Since the straight grain is on the long side of the triangle, the edge does not stretch as with a triangle that is cut on the bias.

    Cut Quarter Square

    Quarter Square Triangles

    The basic measurement for cutting triangles is as follows.  Cutting a square-the finished measurement, plus ½ inch.  Cutting a half-square triangle-finished size plus 7/8 inch.  Cutting the quarter square triangle- finished measurement plus 1 1/4 inch.

    All -In-One Quilter’s Reference Tool, by C & T Publishing is one of my favorite references for most of the quilting techniques that I use and many others.  A method for sewing and cutting many half square triangles is shown on page 44 of this book.  It can be a quick and handy way to making triangles for block that require half square triangles. Precise marking, sewing and cutting are essential to their success.  If you are a quilter, this book is invaluable.  I probably use this book more than any other book that I own.

    As with any other piecing method, pressing is important.  Press with a dry iron, especially triangles.  Since triangles have bias edges, they are prone to stretching and distortion.  Steam pressing the seams of triangles makes the stretch permanent, and thus may distort the finished seam.  Press the seam toward the darker fabric.  Don’t press the seams open.  When all seams are pressed toward the darker fabric, it is much more likely that the block, when assembled, will have less bulking on seams at the connecting points.

     If the seams are pressed open, it is easier for the seam to pop open at the seam with stress.  Also, if seams are pressed open, it leaves a weaker space that can allow the batting in a finished seam to migrate through the seam line.

    Migration happens when the batting fibers between the layers of a quilt come through the weave of the fabric, or through the seam lines.  On a quilt with dark fabrics, this migration will show as unsightly “pilling” on the surface of the quilt fabric.  This has happened to one of my favorite quilts.  Here, I show the quilt itself and then a close-up of the pilling on this quilt.  This probably happens somewhat on all quilts, but it shows up the most on dark colors.  It can be avoided by using black batting in quilts that are dark all over, but would show us as gray on light or pastel colors.  I have never used black batting, however.

    Pilling on Dark

    grey

    I want you all to know that I have been doing some ME.  I read Pat’s blog about Free Standing Lace.  FSL has always intrigued me and I really enjoyed her giving us lots of ideas about how to do FSL successfully.  I made this angel before Christmas.  I enjoyed her so much that I didn’t pack her away with the other Christmas stuff.

    FSL Angel

    Does anyone have anyone have any particular request for new subjects on quilting?  I’m still going to talk about borders, layering, quilting and finishing before I get into other things related to quilting. I hope this finds you all well and turning an impatient eye toward the end of winter, that is, SPRING.

    Stitches to you,
    LaRue

    Quilter's Jargon

    Shapes in quilting
    squares
    triangles
    half square triangles
    quarter square triangles

    Quilt Police-Someone who tells you that you can't do it that way

    pressing-using an iron to set the seams when making quilt blocks and quilts

    pilling-migration of batting fibers through surface fabric

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