A recent update to my embroidery software added a new open fill pattern called
Multi-wave.  It is made up of parallel lines of running or decorative stitches, but
the parallel lines are wavy rather than straight.  I fell in love with it right away
and had to play with it.  Here is the result, stitched in Superiors Rainbows and
Sulky variegated threads.  Which one do you prefer?

     You can see the overlap of the letters more clearly when I used a solid color
thread than with variegated thread, but both variations look fine to me.  The wavy
pattern reminds me of stripes on our American flag, so the red-white-blue colors
in Superior Rainbows #823 seem particularly suitable.  (See my previous blog for
more about the snap pouches.)

     I arranged names for some friends so they could try the new alphabet and give me
feedback.  Viva placed a sheet of mylar on her fabric and then embroidered her name on
top of it.  She used Madeira Polyneon color 1605.  She told me the mylar tore away
very easily but left a few small pieces in crevices.  She pricked the mylar that was
inside the "a" with a seam ripper, and then was able to pull off the rest with long
tweezers.  The tweezers are also great for getting those tiny bits sometimes left
behind in tight corners.  Doesn't this look beautiful?  Viva also made a sign to
advertise what she calls "eye"Pod cases that she sells at craft fairs.  Thank you for
the ideas, Viva!





     My new Multi-Wave Script alphabet is available in two sizes.  The MWS_60 set has
most capital letters about 34 mm high, and in MWS_75 the capital letters are about 42 mm
high.  See the Guide to Contour Script and Multi-Wave Script Alphabets for more
information.  Click here for sample embroidery designs.

     Many embroidery software programs allow us to change the size of designs.  I was
curious to see how well this would work on this style of lettering so did a little
experimenting.  The following photo shows the word "Mom" stitched 6 times.  For the top
row I stitched the word at the orignal sizes.



     The "Moms" in the second row have been scaled.  Scaling preserves the stitch count of
the original design while changing the size of the design.  I usually recommend to scale
by no more than 20% up or down.  75 mm decreased to 60 mm is a 20% change, but 60 mm
to 75 mm is actually a 25% change.  The gaps between wave lines and the length of stitches
increase or decrease with the design size change.  In my opinion, the letters look okay
at a distance, but close up, I don't like the look of the very tiny stitches from scaling
down.

     Finally, the "Moms" in the third row have been resized.  The original density of the
design is preserved when we make the design bigger or smaller.  The resized designs are
not at all suitable.  The triple stitch outline was replaced by a running stitch line in
some letters and the wave lines are not as crisp.  For some reason, the jump to the center
of the "o" became a line of running stitches.  If you want to use both sizes of Multi-Wave
Script, I suggest you buy the Complete Set, found here.

     Drawstring pouches are very handy.  They can hold shoes, toiletries, art supplies,
sewing notions, and many other things.  They can also replace wrapping paper for gifts.
The pouches are very quick to make and can be used again and again.  The pouch becomes a
gift to go along with its contents.  Click here to download the instructions for the
pouch shown below.  I include the formulas for figuring out dimensions according to the
gift you are giving.  If you prefer, you can make a pouch bigger than you need, if that
is the size that will be useful later.

Also please check out our sale - Save 20% on all Fancy Jumbles Alphabets Here

     A member of my American Sewing Guild Neighborhood Group brought an interesting pouch
for Show and Tell.  (You know how much I like pouches!)  This one had pieces of metal
measuring tape in the opening.  The metal flexes and bends, allowing the pouch to open
and then snap shut.  Hex frames will do the same thing, but cost a lot more than metal
measuring tapes, especially if you buy the tapes at a dollar store.  I found a 16 foot
long tape at a dollar store near me.  This is enough for quite a few pouches.

     I made a pouch with the instructions provided, but didn't like the result:  French
seams hid the raw edges, but added a lot of bulk.  Also, the pouch would not close all
the way.  Here are pictures of that first pouch.





     I went back to the drawing board, and my next effort worked much better.  The pouch
snaps closed now.  I used a double layer of metal tape in each casing to give the
opening a lot more strength.  The pouch doesn't want to "park" in the open position, but
it is easy enough to pull open the pouch with the aid of the triangular tabs.  (If your metal
tape is stronger than the dollar store kind, you may be able to get by with a single
layer.)



     Now that I was satisfied with the construction of the pouch, I wanted to try a new
size.  I made this snap portfolio to hold my notebook for sewing guild meetings. 



I arranged the lettering with Contour Print 20 and then framed it with
paisley_ABu_frame_200x260.  I cut a piece of fabric slightly bigger in both
dimensions than the outer pouch needed to be.  The outer pouch was 13 1/2" x 19", so
I cut my fabric 14" x 20".  I marked a vertical centering line down the middle of the
fabric, 7" from one side edge.  I marked my horizontal centering line 1/4 of the way
down that 20".  That turned out to be 5" down.  When I trimmed the fabric to size,
I allowed 1/4 of the 19" height (4 3/4") above the horizontal centering line.  There
will be a seam allowance at the top, but I find that designs look more balanced when
slightly closer to the top than to the bottom.  Here is a picture of how the
embroidery fits on the fabric.  The inner outline shows where I trimmed the fabric.



     I added a double pocket to the back for pens and other small things I might want
to keep handy.  I didn't embroider on the pocket this time, but the instructions to do
so can be found in my Embroidered Double Pocket blog.  The pocket is double because
the space behind the zipper pocket is also a pocket.  Nice?



     I made one more pouch so that I could try my construction method with a single
layer of metal measuring tape in each casing.  It closes better than the first pouch
but is not quite as tight as with the double layer of tape.  You can decide whether
to use a single or double layer for your own pouch, depending on the width and
weight of the tape and on the use for your pouch.  I used V_18_6-color_96, available
in a set of designs for the 100 x 100 mm hoop and also in the complete set of swirls.



     Click here to download the instructions for my version of a snap closure pouch.
The PDF includes fabric sizes for a 6 1/2" x 6 3/4" pouch.  It also includes guidelines
for planning pouches in other sizes.  The measurements for the portfolio can be
found in that section of the PDF.

     Please do be careful, as the cut ends of the metal measuring tape are VERY sharp.
Be sure you follow the instructions for rounding the ends of the tape, covering them with
duct tape, and discarding the trimmed bits safely.

     I also recommend that you cut the entire length of measuring tape free of the housing.
If you cut off only the pieces you need, there will be no metal lip on the end of the
tape to keep the tape from retracting into the housing.  I cut the tape where it was
attached to the housing.  I rolled it up and tied it with a metal twist tie.  The metal
wants to spring free but the twist tie holds the tape together.  I also keep my tape in
a plastic container.  When I want to cut more tape off, I unroll as much as I need, cut
off the pieces, and retie the remaining tape immediately.

     I bet you thought I was done with Zip-Around Pouch variations.  I thought I was
done, too, until I had one more pouch to make.  My sisters, brother, and I bought
our mother an internet tablet for her birthday.  It has an e-reader application,
computer games, and other fun activities.  Of course her device needed a nice soft
pouch.  Carol to the rescue!

     I gave Mom a choice of a few embroideries.  She hadn't seen jumbled Contour
Print letters and liked the look.  She also asked for a wrist strap for the pouch.
I decided to make the strap removable.  The loop in the side seam of the pouch has
a swivel clip, so that Mom can remove the wrist strap and attach something else in
the future.



     Finally, Mom asked for a pocket for the power cord and usb cable.  I gave the
pocket accordion folded corners so that it will lie flat when empty.



I attached the pocket on sides and bottom only, so that the area behind the pocket
can also be used as a pocket.  The pocket has a flap with Velcro(R).



     The PDF file (available here) includes patterns for three sizes of pouch.  It
shows the sizes of fabric to cut for each, and the finished sizes of the pouches.
Remember that the zipper pull prevents the bag from opening to the full width,
so you need your bag to be wider than your device.  Mom's 4 1/2" x 9" tablet fits in
E-Device 1, an Amazon Kindle(TM) (about 5 1/2" x 8") fits in E-Device 2, and an Apple
iPad(R) (about 7 1/2" x 9 1/2") fits in E-Device 3.  The PDF also includes the pattern
for the accordion pocket.  I suggest you open the document before printing, so that
you can see which pages you want to print.  Also be sure to turn off all sizing options
in your PDF viewer before printing.

     Click here to download the instructions for making and attaching the Accordion
Pocket.  The swivel clip loop and wrist strap are included in the instructions.  The
instructions for the pouch are the same as for the Zip-Around Eyeglass Case, found here.

     By the way, make sure your zipper is at least 4" longer than the top edge of the
pouch.  The Zip-Around Eyeglass Case instructions to not provide for the wider sizes.

When I showed my new Small Zip-Around Pouch to some friends recently, one of them
said she wished she had a pouch like that to wear at her recent sewing expo.  She
thought it would be perfect for holding class tickets.  With the addition of a D-ring on
a loop in back, a ribbon or cord will allow the pouch to be worn as a necklace.   A name
embroidery on front removes the need for a separate name tag.  Here is the pouch I made
to try this idea.  I used my Contour Print 30 alphabet for my name and accented it with
Paisley_A_50, from my Contour Paisley Accents collection, in a Superior variegated thread.



     My next idea was to add two loops with D-rings to the back of a pouch.  I added a
long strap and the pouch is now a purse!  I used the large size of pouch for this purse.
The design is V_12_6-color_142, available here.



Here are the files you will need to complete this project.

• Zip-Around Eyeglass Case Instructions
• Zip-Around Pouch Patterns (Medium and Large sizes)
• Small Zip-Around Pouch Pattern
• Zip-Around Pouches:  Adding D-Rings
• Zip-Around Pouch Loop Templates

     The templates fit the upper left corners of the three pouch sizes.  Each template has
three rectangles, representing locations for D-ring loops.  Use the one in the center for
a necklace pouch OR the two on the sides for a purse.  When you print your templates,
be sure to turn off all sizing options in Adobe Reader.



     Here is another way to adapt the pouch pattern.  The Zip-Around Eyeglass Case
includes instructions for an optional inner pocket for the eyeglass case with the wide
opening on top.  I used the same idea but made a pocket on the outside of a pouch, instead.
The pocket holds my comb and some pens.  I added a swivel hook on a loop in the side seam,
so I can snap my keys to it.  (I don't like hunting for keys in the bottom of my purse,
do you?)  I have so many pouches in my purse that this one stands up, right in the middle.



I used the large pouch and V_18_6-color_142.  I cut the fabric for the pocket 15" wide by
5 1/4" high.  I used 3/8" seam allowances and omitted the fleece.  I didn't think the denim
needed extra heft.  I used interfacing rather than fleece for the pouch, as well.  After
stitching the pocket to the back of the pouch, I drew lines to mark vertical divisions for
my pens and comb.  The pen sections are 1" wide and the comb takes up the rest of the pocket,
about 2 1/4".

     I am quite proud of the messenger bag I designed and made for myself.  I created yet
another Zip-Around variation for the lining.  I cut two Small Zip-Around Pouches and linings
from the fabric I used to line the bag.  I interfaced the pieces I would use for the outsides,
cutting one interfacing with the pattern right side up and one with the pattern right side
down.  The result is that the pouches will be mirror images of each other.

     I attached the zipper tape and linings to the pouches and then pressed them in half, right
sides out.  (For the mirrored pouch, I left more zipper tape at the higher end of the slant
rather than at the lower end.)  I unfolded the pouches and placed them right sides together. 
I stitched the two pouches together along the fold line, beginning at the bottom and ending
just below the zippers.  I refolded the pouches so that each one could close, and then added
the zipper pulls as I normally would.  I then basted the pouch to another piece of lining
fabric.  I stitched in the ditch between the pouches to create two pockets behind the pouches.
Finally, I added side and bottom pieces of lining to complete that half of the lining for the bag.



     I hope you can see how easy it is to make small changes to a project in order to come
up with something new.  We need not reinvent the wheel, as the saying goes.  Instead, we should
just add new hubcaps!

     Here are a few more pictures of my bag, just in case you are curious.  The flap has a
zipper pocket and two parachute clips.  The design is V_18_6-color_116.  The back of the bag
has the same design sized for the 200 x 200 hoop.  I really like how the bigger size pops.

All Fancy Swirls design sets are half price this week only.

     In my previous blog, I introduced my swirl designs and Zip-Around Pouches.  The pouches
are constructed the same as my Zip-Around Eyeglass Cases, but have a wider area for embroidery.
You may wonder why the pouch patterns I offered were labeled Medium and Large.  The Small size
was waiting for its turn and now it is ready.  Here is a picture of all three sizes.  I am sure one of them
will be "just right" for your needs, as Goldilocks would say.



     I made the new pouch using the V_15_5-color_95 design.  The file name indicates that the
design has 15 repeats of the V shape.  There are five colors in the design.  The design's largest
dimension is 95 mm.  Since it fits in the 100 x 100 mm hoop, any embroidery machine can handle it.

     By the way, did you happen to notice the black zipper pull on the pink zipper?  I didn't
have a zipper in a color I wanted but did have lots of half zippers left from previous pouches.
I found a package of black zipper pulls that happened to fit the zipper tape.  I was very happy
to fill the immediate need, and now I can use the many other zipper halves floating around my
sewing table.  Yay!

     Now, back to the pouch:  The next picture shows that there is a loop on the back of the
pouch, with a snap for opening and closing the loop.  I can attach the pouch to a cabinet handle,
a stroller frame, or around the strap of a purse or bag.

     I made another small pouch, this time with a belt loop on the back.  The design is
V_12_3-color_96.  There are 12 repeats of the V shape in 3 colors, and the design fits in
the same hoop as the previous design.



     Click here to download the pattern for the Small Zip-Around Pouch.  It includes the
positioning marks for both kinds of loops.  Instructions for making and attaching the loops
are here.  See my Fancy Swirls blog for information about the other pouch sizes and the
instructions for making the pouches.  Click here to see the Swirls collection. The swirls collections 
include a pdf file with A Guide to Fancy Swirls.

     You may recall the geometric swirl design I embroidered on a
little purse and showed in my Be Productive blog.  You may
also remember my Zip-Around Eyeglass Cases.  Well, I have recently
been playing with geometric swirl designs and also with my Zip-Around
Eyeglass Case pattern.  Here is a picture of the result of my play,
the Zip-Around Pouch.  It has a larger surface for embroidery so is a
good setting for the design.

Can you see the V-like shape in one of the colors?  I digitized
that shape and then repeated it in a circle arrangement.  This
arrangement has 18 repeats alternating in 6 colors, resulting in
a rainbow swirl. 

     You know how much I like rainbow colors, especially on black
fabric!  Compare this second design with the previous one.  You will see
that the new version is rounded rather than angular, and also has
a striped open fill.  There is much more color than before.  I was
thrilled with the difference and wanted to share it with you.

     I couldn't leave well enough alone:  I played with different
numbers of repeats and colors.  Here are two arrangements with 12
repeats.  One uses 2 colors of variegated thread and the other 6 solid
colors.  How do you like the design on polka dots?



     Here is a version with 15 repeats in 3 colors.



I liked the way the ends of the V legs met up to form loops, but became
curious:  how would the design look if each loop had one color instead
of two?  To create that arrangement, I had to change the original V
swirl design.  I digitized one leg of the V, added a color change, and
then flipped a copy of the first leg to make the second.  I was then
able to assign colors to the V's legs in order to make the arrangements I
wanted.  Here are designs with 3 and 5 colors.  For a change, I stitched
the 5 color design on white fabric.  Are you shocked?  The colors
seemed to ask for a white background so I gave it a try.  The colors
were right.



     My new Fancy Swirls design set includes 8 different arrangements
in sizes for 100 x 100, 120 x 120, 150 x 150, and 200 x 200 mm hoops.
The 15-repeat designs are also available for the 350 x 360 mm hoop in
.dst, .hus, .vip, and .vp3 formats.  The designs are provided in left
and right halves.  You can combine them on the machine or stitch one
half and then stitch the other.  If you don't mind re-hooping, you can
also stitch half the design in a 200 x 360 hoop and then rehoop for the
second half.  You can see the entire collection here.

     Click here to download the printable patterns for my two new
sizes of Zip-Around Pouches.  Information about fabric size and where
to position the design on the fabric is included in the document.
(When you print the file, remember to deselect the “Fit to Page” option
in your PDF reader!)

     The instructions for making the pouches are the same as for the
Zip-Around Eyeglass Case.  You can download the instructions from
the blog that introduced that project or by clicking here.

     In my previous blog I promised I would talk about the aprons I embroidered
for my sons.  My husband had the idea of embroidering a clock (and then came up
with the pun that would make it food-related:  "Tine to cook").  Here is a picture
of one of the aprons.

     I had already digitized a wooden spoon, so just needed to make a fork to go
with it.  The fork gives the excuse for the 'tine.'  Arranging the numbers for the
clock took a little more doing.  My embroidery software allows me to arrange
multiple items in a circle, but the bottoms of all the numbers would have faced
the center as in this picture.

     Since I preferred to have all my numbers facing the same way, I arranged only
blank circles.  Separately, I used my Contour Print 20 alphabet to arrange the
numbers for my clock.  I left the boxes in place around the numbers.  I also
positioned one box from a number inside a circle to serve as a guide for position-
ing the numbers.  I call this helper design a circle_guide.

     I arranged 12 of these circles into larger guides.  The following picture
shows circle_guide_200, arranged for adding numbers to a clock that will fit in
a 200 mm wide hoop.  Circle_guide_150 will fit in a 150 mm wide hoop, for those
who don't have the larger hoop.



     For the three 2-digit numbers, 10, 11, and 12, I arranged and combined the
digits first.  I did not yet remove the boxes that surround the digits.  I
positioned each number in its proper place in the circle, centering the number
between the sides of the circle and aligning the bottom of the box with the guide
box in the circle.

     I added my spoon hour hand and fork minute hand, and then a small circle to
serve as the center washer that holds the hands in place.  I combined the design
and then removed the circle_guide color.

     I added the text underneath, using Contour Print 40 alphabet.  I combined
again, saved the design, and transferred it to my embroidery machine for stitching.
    
     This design was easier to center than the on-point paisley design.  I folded
the apron in half vertically and marked on the fold.



     I opened up the apron and used a ruler to mark the line more completely.



     The entire design is 253 mm high by 177 mm wide.  I marked the horizontal
center line about 6 1/2" inches down from the bottom of the trim on the top edge.
253 mm equals about 10 inches, so 1/2 of the design is 5" high.  That leaves about
1 1/2" of fabric above the design.  You can position your design as you please,
but I suggest you do leave a little space above the design.



     Finally, I embroidered the design.  That was the easy part.  My sons were
quite amused by the designs and will enjoy using their aprons.  I hope my daughters-
in-law will use them, too.

     The Contour Clock Designs (circle guides, two sizes of spoons and forks for clock hands, and the center
washer) are available free, with a purchase of any Fancy Jumbles embroidery alphabet,
through the end of December, 2010.  The set also includes clock faces, already arranged
for the 150 x 150 mm and 200 x 200 mm hoops.  Some designs may not be available in all
formats, given size restrictions for designs in some formats.

     I was recently given some beautiful apron blanks to embroider for my family.
I chose my paisley designs for my apron, and decided to arrange my smaller size of
paisleys in my new 200 x 200 millimeter hoop.  It looked very nice, but there
wasn't enough room for my name in the middle.

     The 200 x 200 mm. paisley arrangement is free with the paisley set or any
Jumble alphabet purchase through the end of November.  The design is arranged for
two colors, but you can stitch it in one variegated color as I did, too.  Click here
for more information.

     There was more room on the diagonal, so I rotated my name to fit the space.
I then positioned the design on the fabric so the name would be straight across.
(I didn't want to cause a crick in anyone's neck from viewing the design at an angle.)
In my software I can only rotate clockwise, so I set the rotation to 315 degrees for
45 degrees counter-clockwise.



     I next drew a mock-up of a template on a piece of graph paper.  A template for
this size of design would have required two pieces of paper for printing, so drawing
my own was actually quicker and less expensive.  I marked the diagonals and also the
side of the design that faces up in the hoop.



     The next step was to prepare the apron.  I washed and dried it, then folded it in
half, right sides out, to mark the vertical center of the apron.  I marked on the fold
with a piece of chalk whose marks I knew I could steam out.



     After unfolding the apron, I used a ruler to connect the small lines into a
continuous line.



     I placed the template on the fabric.  I positioned the template's diagonal line
on the apron's vertical line, then slid the template up and down until I was satisfied
with the location.  I marked the vertical and horizontal lines from the template.  Note
that they are diagonal on the apron.  I also marked an arrow showing the top of the
actual design.  The arrow on the template is my guide.

     The next picture shows the fabric positioned on hooped stabilizer.  You can see
that the hoop is diagonal to the apron and that the design will be stitched with the name
positioned correctly.  The arrow that points northeast ensures that I stitch the name right
side up.  I connected the marks so I would have complete centering lines.  (I did this
before pinning the fabric to the stabilizer but don't have a separate picture to show.)



     I centered the design on the new (diagonal) centering lines and then used fix-baste
to hold the fabric in place.  Finally, I embroidered the design.



     Here is the completed embroidery.  I removed the fix basting and the excess stabilizer
from the wrong side, and then washed the apron again.  It is all ready to get dirty now, if
I can bear to take that risk.



     In another blog I will show you the aprons I embroidered for my sons.  They are a little
bit punny, but my sons were very happy to receive them.

     A few months ago I made a diaper bag for my daughter-in-law.  I included a fold-up diaper changing pad.
My DIL likes fabrics that wouldn't normally go together, so that is what I gave her.  I padded the fabric
with fusible fleece and covered it with vinyl.  The shell for the pad is denim.  Here is a picture of my
one-of-a-kind diaper changing pad.



     Turning the bag right side out was not easy.  The vinyl covering the lining fabric stuck to itself so
it was a bit like untangling a roll of tape.  I wasn't going to go through that AGAIN.  Nevertheless, when
I saw coordinating purple fabrics that I knew my other daughter-in-law would love, I couldn't help but
buy the fabric.  Here is the second pad.  I made the flap a little longer so that it wraps around more for
closing the pad.



     This changing pad is used at home as well as for travel.  I decided to make another pad that can remain
at home.  Since I promised more blogs about projects for babies, I added embroidery to this pad.  The fabric
for the inside has stripes in nine colors.  I used the Stripes Vertical set of Fancy Jumbles to arrange "time
for a change" and then matched the threads to the colors in the fabric.  Here are pictures of the pad closed
and partially open.





     I really like the way the pad came out.  (I am thinking of keeping it as a sample, so made another pad
that I can actually give away.  Has that ever happened to you?)  I used a lighter color of denim for this
fourth pad, so that some of the steps would be easier to photograph.  I used a variety of Fancy Jumbles fill
patterns this time.  I also finished the flap a different way.  You can see that the corners of the flap
are tapered rather than mitered.  The partially open pad above shows the mitered corners.



     Both constructions are included in the instructions.  You will also find instructions for adding
embroidery to the flap.  Click here to download the instructions.  If there are no babies in your life
right now, you can make a portable pressing pad instead.  Just substitute silicon fabric and heavy cotton
batting for the fleece, cotton and vinyl.  If you come up with other uses for my instructions please share
them with us.

     On a recent visit to my mother, I bought a very nice but unadorned t-shirt.
I thought embroidering along the front neckline would spice it up a bit. I have
been doing machine embroidery for 11 years now, but very little of that was on
clothing.  It was time to try somthing new.

     After a little brainstorming, I decided that Contour Paisley Alphabet
Accents would look very pretty on my shirt.  I rotated the 50mm paisleys into
an upright position.  I created a template from the shirt itself.  Marks along
the neckline helped me distribute the paisleys evenly, while vertical lines
("arrows") added to the paisleys helped me rotate the paisleys accurately.
Here is a picture of the neckline design I created.



     Before transferring the design to my embroidery machine, I deleted the
portion of the template with the neckline markings.  I also deleted the arrows
from the paisleys.  I stitched the outline of the shoulders and neck directly
on the stabilizer and then hand basted the shirt to that outline.  The template
also includes a fix-baste shaped to the shirt front, so I stitched that.  I am
glad that I thought of angling the bottom corners, because it would have been
difficult to stitch straight down the side and across the bottom.  There was
just too much shirt to keep out of the way.  Finally, I stitched the paisleys. 



     Here is the shirt I stitched.  It is hard to tell from the picture that
the threads are variegated, but you can see in person.  I was quite pleased
with this embroidery experiment.

     I bought two more t-shirts but found they had a different neckline from
the first.  No problem, I just created a new template!  I took photos of each
step for a lesson.  Click here to download the complete lesson.  It includes
the two neckline template designs I digitized, the arrow design for positioning
elements around a neckline, the instructions, and printable templates for all
three embroidery designs.  The designs are available in all the formats that
permit designs in the sizes I needed.  The templates fit in a hoop 200 x 360
millimeters or bigger.

     You are welcome to use my neck templates if they fit the neckline of your
shirt.  To determine this, print the templates.  Fold your shirt front in half
lengthwise and lay it along the shoulder and neckline of the template.  If they
match, you are all set.  If neither template works for you, the instructions
will show you how to create your own.

     You will need digitizing software to do this, of course.  You will need
customizing software to add your paisley or other design elements to your
neckline.  A stitch editor will let you delete the arrows and the part of the
template that guides design placement.  You will also need a scanner for
creating the artwork for your neckline template.

     The shirt I used for the lesson is light blue with purple and dark blue
paisleys.  The black one shown here is my favorite of the three and I bet you
can guess why.  Yes, it's because the paisleys are variegated.  (You know me so
well!)

All Fancy Jumbles alphabets are on special this week only.  The Contour Paisley Accents set
is included with any purchase this week only.  See my collection for more information.

     Last summer I made this hanging zipper caddy.  I had made some similar ones as gifts,
and wanted a sample of the project for myself.  I "jumbled" my name with Pinstripes Vertical
letters, just to see how it would look.  The letters are bigger than Fancy Jumbles so the
result is bigger, too.  I will do this again whenever the name this size will fit on the project.

     The caddy can hang anywhere from a hook.  It will also be handy for travel.  Place your
itinerary and other travel documents in the caddy, and then hang a garment over it.  Only you
will know where to look.

     I made a zipper pouch for DB, framing her Contour Script initials with the Contour Paisley
designs I had digitized recently.  I used upholstery fabric and two colors of thread.  I made
a second pouch using denim and my favorite Superior Rainbow's thread, #813.  I thought the second
pouch looked much better but gave the first one to DB, as well.
 


     I have not yet stitched a design like this for myself, but made a similar one with a smaller
size of paisleys.  I used Superior Rainbows #801 because I had coordinating fabric for the
backing and inside the pockets.  I made this hanging zipper caddy so that I could write up
instructions for the project, available here.  (New and improved instructions posted July 14, 2010.)

     Click here to see the Contour Paisley Accents designs.  The set includes four individual
paisleys, two paisley bands that will fit 100 x 170 and 130 x 180 millimeter hoops, and six frame
arrangements for 150 x 240 and 200 x 260 millimeter hoops.  I used Paisley_AB_big_frame_200x260
for the DB embroideries and Paisley_ABu_frame_200x260 for the hanging zipper caddy.  This set is
available for sale with my alphabets.

All Fancy Jumbles alphabets are on special this week only.  The Contour Paisley Accents set
is included with any purchase this week only.

     I am still waiting to see your own creations using my alphabets and/or project instructions.
The Computerist shared her wonderful lesson on resizing and uploading photos to Ann the Gran
in her blog.  If you haven't seen it, please do take a look.  If you think your projects are
not "good enough" to post, please don't give that another thought.  We won't even see the little
goofs that probably drive you crazy, and we have too many goofs of our own to worry about yours!

     Since I started this blog (almost two and a half years ago), I have
been showing photographs of the various projects I have offered.  Now it's
your turn!  I'd like to see some of the projects you have completed.

     I'm therefore writing to announce the new Fancy Jumbles Gallery for
you to post photographs of projects that use:

• my alphabets on your own creations, or
• my instructions using any embroidery designs you like, or
• both together.

You will need to sign in to your Ann the Gran account before uploading your
photos.  If you don't yet have an account, you can easily create one: click
'Sign in' and then click 'Sign-up now.'

     Click here to see the new Fancy Jumbles Gallery.  Alternatively,
you can also find it by going to Ann the Gran's home page and clicking on
'Galleries,'  then (in the panel on left) click 'Embroidery and Sewing
Project Galleries,' and then click 'Fancy Jumbles.'  Here is a peek:



     Right now you will see photos from my blogs, as reminders of past
projects.  Soon I hope you'll see a lot more photos.  I have a few
reasons to ask for them.

     First, it gives you a chance to show off your work.  We all know how
much fun that can be:  even though we aren't in Kindergarten any more, we
all still enjoy Show and Tell.  Second, seeing the projects of others can
give us new ideas.  A different trim or combination of designs can inspire
us to try something new.  We often favor particular color combinations, so
seeing other combinations that work can get us out of our color boxes.
Finally, seeing your Fancy Jumbles projects will give me an idea of what
kinds of projects to offer in the future.  It will help me to see which
projects are most useful to you.

     Please do add your photographs to our new gallery.  I will check it
regularly and hope you will, too.  I can't wait to see what you have been
making with my alphabets, project instructions, or both.

All Fancy Jumbles alphabets are on special this week only.  See my
collection for details.

     One of my friends searched the internet for an in-the-hoop baby bib
but was unable to find one.  In fun, she challenged me to create one.  As it
happened, I was at the time waiting for my first grandchild to be born while
she was waiting for her second.  Thus, we would both have use for the bib.

     Most of the bibs I see in stores have bias binding around the edges.
I could not see an easy way to handle that in the hoop.  At most we'd be
able to stitch it to one side in the hoop, but we'd have to finish it after
removing the stabilizer.

     My friend clarified that she was thinking of a lined bib.  That's
something I could do!  I drew a bib and digitized the outline.  I also added
marks for placement of velcro pieces on the neck tabs.  My embroidery machine
includes a 200 x 360 hoop, so I created the bib to fit that hoop.

     I arranged "Drool is Cool" with my Contour Print 40 alphabet, then added
the hoop design to the screen.  I combined the designs and moved the Velcro
marks to the top of the stitch list.  That isn't really necessary but saves
jumping back and forth during embroidery.  I stitched the Velcro marks and
lettering with my favorite variegated thread, Superior Rainbows #813.  I added
right side down lining fabric before stitching the outline of the bib.  Here
is the bib I created.

     Not all embroidery machines can take 200 x 360 hoops.  If yours cannot,
you can still make my bib.  The instructions include a printable pattern for
making the bib "the old way."  For this version, you only need a hoop large
enough for the text and or designs you wish to include.  When you print the
instructions, be sure to uncheck all the sizing options (fit or shrink to
printable area, multiple pages per sheet, etc.).  The bib should be 8 1/2"
wide including the seam allowances.  For the in-the-hoop bib, you need only
the first two pages of the instructions.  Click here for instructions and bib designs.

     I made this bib using embroidered fabric and my pattern.  I used
Contour Script 60 for the lettering and stitched it with a pink variegated
Sulky thread, #2102.

     Here is a third bib, with "baby" arranged in Fancy Jumbles.  I just had
to see how that alphabet would look.  I normally stitch jumbles on very dark
fabric but like how it looks on the light blue print.  I stitched this bib in the hoop.
I decided the larger amount of stabilizer was a fair trade-off for faster
construction.  I now see the attraction of in-the-hoop projects.

     For each bib, I used knit fabric for the linings.  I used waffle knit
for the first bib, stretch terry for the second, and sweatshirt fleece for the
third.  I pressed the completed bibs so that a little bit of the lining shows
on front, giving the appearance of piping.  I topstitched near the seam and
added my velcro.

     I recently bought a new type of Velcro.  Instead of separate strips, one
with hooks and the other with loops, the Snag-Free Velcro(R) Brand Fastener
has hooks and loops mixed together on the same strip.  The Velcro still sticks
to itself but does not stick to other fabrics.  Click here for more
information.

     My grandson (I'll call him "Wolf") is now four weeks old, and pure
delight.  We have another grandchild due some time this summer so the fun is
just beginning.  Watch for more baby-related projects in my blog.

I recently made and sent luggage tags for my daughter and some of her friends.  One of the friends then commissioned me to make a tag to attach to a gift she will be giving this Christmas.  She asked me to add a second buttonhole so the tag can be fastened securely to the gift, like a name plate.  (I won't mention the gift, just in case Dustin reads this blog.)  Here is the name plate I stitched for the gift for Dustin:

My friend Pam had an idea for another use for the name plate.  She embroidered a Santa design and then threaded a candy cane through the holes.  She hung her candy cane on her Christmas tree as an ornament but could also use it as a party favor.  She also thought of tying a name plate to a jar of goodies with a ribbon, with the embroidery identifying the contents and/or recipient of the jar.

Last week I found a temporary ID badge at home.  A small clip for fastening the badge to clothing had been snapped onto the badge with a little strip of plastic.  (Such ID Badge Clips are available in office supply stores.)  Seeing the clips gave me the idea of transforming my luggage tags into name tags.



I moved the buttonhole on the oblong luggage tag so that names can be read horizontally as the tag would be worn.  This shape will work well for long names.  I arranged my name with Contour Print 40 for the tag shown below:

Nine or ten Contour Print 20 letters will fit in the same width.  Since the buttonhole is now above, rather than beside, a name, longer names will work for the name tag than for the same shape of luggage tag.  Here is a simulated view of a long name arranged in an oblong name tag.

I also created a tag in a more typical name tag shape.  On the tag shown below, I "jumbled" my name with Contour Print 40 letters.  (See my How to Jumble guide for more information on arranging letters in this fashion.)  The slight overlap allows me to use larger letters in a smaller width than I can fit with normal letter spacing.  I embroidered the outline to match the fabric so that just the name pops out.  I quite like the look.



All three new tags are available here.  Follow the instructions offered in my previous blog for the new tags.  Look in the paragraph following the photo of the square tags. Wouldn't these be fun to make for all your sewing friends?

When I offered to make some luggage tags for my brother, Scott, he asked that I use his initials rather than his name and address.  I thought that was a very good idea, since the address broadcasts to the world just WHERE a person is not at home.

My brother also requested that the tags be very noticeable from the baggage claim conveyor.  So many bags look just the same, and it is not always easy to read the tags from afar.  At first I was going to use my Pinstripes alphabet to make the initials, but then thought that a bright fabric would be easier to spot than lettering.

I turned again to my favorite contour fill pattern and digitized his initials.  I liked the look of the contour fill in block letters, as did those who saw the tags I made.  I decided to digitize the rest of the alphabet and then created the alphabets in five sizes, 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 60 mm, and 90 mm high.  The capital letters are about 2/3 the height of these sizes (13 mm, 20 mm, 26 mm, 39 mm, and 59 mm, respectively.  The alphabets are available singly and as a complete set. Click here to see the new alphabets.

You can download a guide to using Contour Print alphabets with more information and also a sample letter in each size on the page with my alphabet collections.

I digitized the design for my brother's luggage tags.  He was very pleased with the look and size of his luggage tags.  I have not yet heard whether they have traveled and helped him find his bags.  Here are the tags I made for my brother.

For fun, I stitched a tag with Contour Script 60.  I learned to watch out for prints that include the color of the embroidery thread and am passing on the warning to you.  See the samples in the luggage tag instructions offered below for a print that works a lot better
with this lettering.

My friend Mary chose the colors for the following two tags.  I love bright colors and strong contrast for myself, but like to keep my friends happy.  Now that I see how subtle these tags look, I will definitely consider similar combinations of fabric and thread.

Since some embroidery machines offer only a 100 x 100 mm hoop, I decided to offer another shape of luggage tag for that size of hoop.  Here are two tags I made in my small hoop.  As you see, there is a single 90 mm letter in one square and two 30 mm letters plus one 40 mm letter in another.

For the sake of comparison, I trimmed the fabric before satin stitching on the first square.  Trimming the fabric last, as I did for the second square, is a little quicker, but trimming before satin stitching gives a more finished look.  Instructions for both methods of contruction are available here.  The oblong and square luggage tag designs can be downloaded as well.  Both are stitched entirely in the hoop.

No matter which shape or construction method you choose, you will love how quickly you can embroider these tags.  You can even use them for gift tags that will have a second life after the holidays.  For attaching your tags to belongings, you can include a cable tie (each costing about a penny), a shower curtain ring, or a small leather strap. Here is a picture of a cable tie.

Can you think of other uses for these tags?  Key tags?  Bookmarks?  Please show us how you use these embroidery designs.