When I offered to make some luggage tags for my brother, Scott, he asked that I use his initials rather than his name and address.  I thought that was a very good idea, since the address broadcasts to the world just WHERE a person is not at home.

My brother also requested that the tags be very noticeable from the baggage claim conveyor.  So many bags look just the same, and it is not always easy to read the tags from afar.  At first I was going to use my Pinstripes alphabet to make the initials, but then thought that a bright fabric would be easier to spot than lettering.

I turned again to my favorite contour fill pattern and digitized his initials.  I liked the look of the contour fill in block letters, as did those who saw the tags I made.  I decided to digitize the rest of the alphabet and then created the alphabets in five sizes, 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 60 mm, and 90 mm high.  The capital letters are about 2/3 the height of these sizes (13 mm, 20 mm, 26 mm, 39 mm, and 59 mm, respectively.  The alphabets are available singly and as a complete set. Click here to see the new alphabets.

You can download a guide to using Contour Print alphabets with more information and also a sample letter in each size on the page with my alphabet collections.

I digitized the design for my brother's luggage tags.  He was very pleased with the look and size of his luggage tags.  I have not yet heard whether they have traveled and helped him find his bags.  Here are the tags I made for my brother.

For fun, I stitched a tag with Contour Script 60.  I learned to watch out for prints that include the color of the embroidery thread and am passing on the warning to you.  See the samples in the luggage tag instructions offered below for a print that works a lot better
with this lettering.

My friend Mary chose the colors for the following two tags.  I love bright colors and strong contrast for myself, but like to keep my friends happy.  Now that I see how subtle these tags look, I will definitely consider similar combinations of fabric and thread.

Since some embroidery machines offer only a 100 x 100 mm hoop, I decided to offer another shape of luggage tag for that size of hoop.  Here are two tags I made in my small hoop.  As you see, there is a single 90 mm letter in one square and two 30 mm letters plus one 40 mm letter in another.

For the sake of comparison, I trimmed the fabric before satin stitching on the first square.  Trimming the fabric last, as I did for the second square, is a little quicker, but trimming before satin stitching gives a more finished look.  Instructions for both methods of contruction are available here.  The oblong and square luggage tag designs can be downloaded as well.  Both are stitched entirely in the hoop.

No matter which shape or construction method you choose, you will love how quickly you can embroider these tags.  You can even use them for gift tags that will have a second life after the holidays.  For attaching your tags to belongings, you can include a cable tie (each costing about a penny), a shower curtain ring, or a small leather strap. Here is a picture of a cable tie.

Can you think of other uses for these tags?  Key tags?  Bookmarks?  Please show us how you use these embroidery designs.

In December of 2008 I blogged about Finished Objects.  I shared my idea of keeping track of projects I have completed.  I also talked about my plan of at least visiting my sewing room most days of the week so that I will be motivated to start projects.  Have any of you followed this plan?  Have you seen an increase in your own productivity?

I was away from home for half of July, so really missed my sewing room.  However, I more than made up for my absence in August and September.  My spreadsheet tells me that I finished 13 items during each of those months, and September isn't over yet.  I may be able to sneak in one more project.  The list includes 9 eyeglass cases, 2 purses,  2 wall hangings, 2 pillows, 2 neck roll covers, 1 water bottle caddy, a pincushion and some pouches.

Here are just a few of the I projects I completed in September.  I tried a new thread for the Lisi eyeglass case.  It is a twist of red and black threads, made by Robison-Anton.  The red color is a bit toned down compared to a solid red.  I sized the Contour Script letters bigger than usual, since Lisi is such a short name.

I used my favorite Superior Rainbows #813 for the eyeglass case for cousin Susan. She saw my tote bag with my name in that thread and really liked it.  I was happy to make her an eyeglass case with the design.  When I showed my projects at my sewing guild
meeting last week, a Susan at the meeting asked if this eyeglass case was for her.  I had to disappoint her, but think I will surprise her with a piece of fabric with her name embroidered just like this.  She already knows how to make the eyeglass case since I
taught the project at one of our meetings.

I also offered to make my cousin a fleece neck roll cover.  Her bedroom is decorated in cream (which is the color of the fleece) and green and bronze, so I suggested arranging her initials in Contour Cut-Outs with a bigger initial in the middle and the two smaller initials in a different color.  I did use a water soluble topper this time.  You can see the shine in the picture of the whole neck roll cover.  The closeup photo was taken after a trip through the washing machine.

This water bottle caddy is for a friend of my daughter.  She asked me to make it and I whipped it up the same day.  I used my Fancy Jumbles alphabet in the colors my daughter requested.  The friend thanked me for embroidering on the water bottle caddy.  He didn't even notice it was home made.  That felt very good to me.

I have been playing with a different type of embroidery design lately.  I created an angular V shaped outline and repeated it multiple times using the Encore feature in my embroidery software.  I then reordered the colors to stitch in color wheel order.  A
variegated thread would give much the same look but the six different colors of thread I used this time give a very "orderly" progression of colors.  The purse I made with the design is 7" square by 3" deep, just big enough for a night out!

I hope you will all share your tips for starting and finishing projects.  We are entering the busy season for sewing, and you never know which idea will help another sewing friend zip through her list of gifts to make.

I like quick.

I like quick-to-stitch designs and quick-to-sew projects.  The fleece neck roll cover is quick in both regards.  I used the larger size of Contour Cut-Outs and the design still only took 20 minutes to stitch.  The cover took about the same amount of time to make, once the embroidery was done.  It would have taken even less time, but I stopped to take photographs for the lesson available here.  A fabric that ravels would require a little more time for seam finishing.

Did I surprise you by not using variegated thread?  I instead chose the copper color thread because I thought it would look very nice on the cream colored fleece.  The fleece was not very plush so it needed the high contrast thread for a striking look.



I recently bought some Badgemaster soluble stabilizer and decided to try it for this project.  It worked fine.  I trimmed the stabilizer close to the stitching.  The remainder will wash out in the laundry.

You will need:

1. Contour Cut-Outs Alphabets
2. 60” wide fleece:  1/3 yard.
3. Pattern tracing material:  11” x 25” piece.
4. 14” x 6” diameter neck bolster pillow form.
5. Thread.
6. Embroidery thread.
7. Soluble or Cutaway Stabilizer



Have fun with this project.  It is so quick that you'll want to make neck roll covers for everyone on your gift list.  Stock up on the bolster pillow forms during 50% sales and your gifts will be complete.

     I have lately been hearing a lot about embossed embroidery designs.  In such a design it is the area surrounding a letter or name that is covered with thread rather than the letter or name itself.  When a plush fabric such as terry cloth or fleece is compressed by the stitching, the unstitched area inside pops out in contrast.

     This type of design often has a very high stitch count, as the fill for the background area is fairly dense.  Satin stitches around the perimeter and the edge of the inner design add even more stitches.  I have seen designs for the 100 x 100 mm hoop that have more than 10,000 stitches.  The look is lovely, but I wanted something quicker.

     Once again, I turned to the contour fill pattern my digitizing software offers.  I started with a tall hexagon and added a monospace font. (Monospace means that each letter is the same width.  Since the hexagons are all the same width I thought the letters should be, too.)  I named the alphabet Contour Cut-Outs since the letters appear to be cut out from the contour fill with scissors.

     I just had to play with the variegated threads I love.  The KCS design is stitched with a Robison-Anton thread and the CAB with Superiors Rainbows.  I prefer the all-over color of my initials but many others (including my friend KCS) prefer the look of the bands created by the longer intervals of color.

     I also tried the Superior thread on white terry cloth.  Since I forgot to use a soluble topper for the embroidery, the loops peek through the embroidery, but it still gives a very nice look.  The tone on tone version shown with it isn't quite as bold.

     Here is Lacy enjoying her fleece awning.  I arranged her name and stitched it in the diagonal corner of the fleece.  What better home can a cat want?  To embellish a similar blanket (for pet or human), fold one corner diagonally and lightly mark the fold.  Use a ruler to mark a centering line perpendicular to the first, making sure the space is wide enough for the design you have arranged.  If you prefer, you can print a template and use that for determining the position for your design.  Stitch and enjoy.

     Seeking feedback, I shared my new alphabet with a few friends.  One of them suggeted that a rectangular block would also be nice.  It does give a very different look, doesn't it?  I named this version Contour Cut-Outs Rectangle.

     Both alphabets are available 35 and 45 millimeters wide.  The rectangular blocks are about twice the width in height and the hexagons are slightly taller.  I kept the blocks small so that a reasonable number of letters can fit in a hoop.  Six 35mm or five 45mm letters will fit in a 240mm wide hoop.  (If there is enough interest in larger blocks, I will be happy to create them later on.)

     In addition to upper case and lower case letters, numbers and punctuation, I also include a club, a diamond, a heart, a spade and a flower.  A pound sign (#) will allow fun embellishment for guest towels:  #1, #2, etc. will help your guests identify the towels they used.

     Click here to view the complete collections.  You can also download a sample letter and a guide to using this alphabet.

Happy New Year!

For special savings on my Fancy Jumbles Complete Set click here
and order by Friday, January 9, 2009.

     When I first created my Fancy Jumbles alphabets, I had my
water bottle caddy project in mind.  Read on to learn how I created
the alphabet and to see where to find the instructions for the water
bottle caddy.

     At my college reunion in 2002, I told my former art professor --
let's call him Mr. W. -- about the amazing new embroidery digitizing
software I was learning to use.  He enjoys traveling so I thought a
water bottle caddy would be the perfect setting for a sample of
digitizing.  I have been making water bottle caddies since 1998 and
knew they were well received as gifts.

     This design needed to be special!  I had the idea of overlapping
letters with different fill patterns, and created his name as a single
embroidery design.  Here is a picture of this early effort.  Mr. W.
was very pleased with his gift.



     After digitizing just a few more names in this manner, I realized I
was reinventing the wheel -- and the "a" and the "b" and the "c" and
so forth.  It would be more efficient, in the long run, to create
designs of each letter in a number of fill patterns, and then to
combine the letters via a customizing program.  At first I digitized
just the letters I needed for specific names.  Friends who also
embroider encouraged me to create a complete set of these Fancy
Jumbles for sale.  It took a while to digitize all the characters in all
the fill patterns, but in July 2007 I was ready for my alphabets to
debut at Ann the Gran.

     Here are some water bottle caddies I embroidered with the
"official" Fancy Jumbles alphabets.  The letters are smaller to allow
longer names to fit in common hoop sizes.  You may notice that I
now prefer to arrange the letters in a fairly straight line.  See the
"How to Jumble" guide included in the information download for
more suggestions.

     My instructions for making the water bottle caddy were
published in the July/August 2003 issue of Designs in Machine
Embroidery.  I recently learned that reprints of the article can be
purchased here.  I drafted a new pattern for the quart size
Nalgene(R) bottle, since that size has become very popular.  Both
patterns are available here, but I do recommend following the
instructions for best results.  See pattern for fabric requirements
for the large caddy.  (One note:  the width of the casing for
the drawstring should be 3/4" rather than 3/8".)

     With temperatures near zero degrees in much of the country, it's
hard to think about summer accessories like water bottle caddies. 
Warmer weather will be here before we know it so now is the time
to start our summer sewing projects.  Readers in southern states and
south of the equator may be ready for them now!

     Have you ever wondered just how many beautiful, handcrafted treasures you have made for family, friends and yourself?  I used to wonder that, too, until I started keeping a record of every sewing project I complete.  Let me tell you why I started doing that, and maybe you'll want to do so, as well.
 
     Thirteen years ago, I learned that the fabric store at which I worked would soon be closing.  In the hectic few weeks while we cleared the store out, I had very little time to myself for my hobby.  I thought of things I wanted to sew and told myself I would do them "when I'm not working...." and "once I have time...."  I was worried that I would continue to procrastinate but wanted to believe that I would, in fact, find more time to sew.
 
     I decided to keep a written record of all my finished projects, hoping that this list would help me see how much I was accomplishing.  I started by keeping a handwritten list, noting the description and recipient for each item.  I now use a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet, which lets me add new columns for information and automatically calculates totals for me.  You can view my model spreadsheet here.

     Another thing that motivates me to complete projects is the simple act of starting them.  In recent years I discovered that I DON'T like having un-finished objects (UFOs) in my to-do pile.  Once I start a sewing project I want to finish it within a few days.  My personal preference is to have only a single project started at a time.  Any project I am working on calls me to finish it, if only so I can start another!   

     The best way I have found to get myself started is to spend at least a short period of time in my sewing room most mornings before proceeding to other household tasks.  This is in part due to the way the light hits my cutting table in the morning, and in part because my energy level is at its peak early in the day.  If another time of day fits your routine better, by all means enjoy your sewing then!
 
     A good way for me to start is by clearing my cutting and sewing tables, putting away scraps of fabric, notions, and recently-used embroidery threads.  Sometimes I locate fabric for a new project and just spread it out in preparation for the next day, while at other times I actually start the embroidery or cutting for my project.  Any of these is enough to put me in the mood to create.


 
     This past Tuesday morning I entered my sewing room with every intention of finishing two eyeglass cases for a friend.  I had embroidered on them a few days earlier and was looking forward to completing these projects, but found that I didn't have the zippers that I needed.  I cut out the linings, fusible fleece and embroidered outer fabric, and fused the fleece to the embroidered fabric.  When the zippers I ordered arrive I will be able to get right to work on the eyeglass cases.  (See my Zip-Around Eyeglass Case blog for the instructions for this project.  I embroidered "RBH" with Pinstripes Vertical alphabet and "Jan" with Contour Script 75 alphabet.)
 
     I hope my record-keeping idea will help you to increase your productivity.  The new year offers a fresh start and a good time to start a new plan for a creative 2009.  Happy New Year!

     Let’s face it:  not everyone appreciates handmade gifts.  It is very frustrating to see our
hard work end up in a closet “so it doesn’t get dirty” or because our friend or relative prefers
brand-name gifts.  When the gift took many hours or weeks to finish, we want to see it used and
enjoyed.  Before I share my suggestion for an easy and appreciated gift, I would like to tell you how
it came to be.

     Many years ago I noticed an unusual feature on a friend’s tote bag:  There was a facing
attached to the top edge of the tote, with a zipper that went all the way around its bottom edge.  If
the bag were very full, the facing could be pulled out to extend the height of the bag and then
zipped shut to hold everything inside.

     More interestingly, I realized that the zipper pull was attached to both ends of the same
side of zipper tape.  It was really only one side of a zipper!  This idea intrigued me a great deal, so
when I returned home I just had to experiment.  I removed a few coils from one side of zipper tape
as directed in instructions for zipper-by-the-yard.  I was then able to attach the zipper pull with only
a little effort.  I zipped the zipper all the way to the middle of the tape and saw how neat the zipper
looked.

     I found a way to use the zipper opening for an eyeglass case.  With a slanted top edge,
the zipper ends lie flat at the side seam.  It is easy to reach into the case because fingers can reach
between its layers.  Fusible fleece cushions the eyeglasses inside and the zipper keeps them from
falling out.
   
     I started making eyeglass cases for relatives and friends and was pleased at how well the
cases were received.  They were used not only for eyeglasses, but also for keys, cosmetics, cell
phones, even rotary cutters.  I have one for cough drops and another for business cards, two more
uses.  Now that I have made so many eyeglass cases, I can assemble one in about 30 minutes once
I have stitched the embroidery and cut the pieces.

     The original version of the Zip-Around Eyeglass Case has its zipper across a short end. 
I recently added a second version, with a wider opening and an optional pocket for clip-on
sunglasses.  Except for the fabric dimensions and the optional pocket in the wide version, the
instructions are the same for both.  Click here to download the Zip-Around Eyeglass Case
instructions.  The patterns for both cases are included in the instructions.  You can print everything
or skip the pages with the pattern you do not want.  When you print the file, be sure to deselect the
“Fit to Page” option in your PDF reader.

     The cases are even more appreciated when they are personalized, I have learned.  If you
would like to add machine embroidered names to your eyeglass cases, here are some things to
consider:

1.  What design will fit on the eyeglass case?  I recommend a design be no larger than 145 mm by
70 mm.  For the original version you can arrange letters vertically or horizontally.  For the wide
version, a horizontal arrangement works best.  If a full name is too long to fit the space, you can use
initials.

2.  What kind of lettering will suit the recipient?  Would he or she prefer a formal or fun look? 
Would a subtle tone on tone effect or lots of bright colors be more appealing?

3.  What kind of lettering will work best with the fabric?  Solid fabrics work well with just about
any design, but prints and textures require a design that will show regardless of variations in the
fabric.

     If you haven’t seen it already, please take a look at my post on Piggyback Hooping. 
You will see my technique for hooping more than one design on the same piece of stabilizer.  I
used it to embroider the fabric for the three designs shown here.  For the beige denim case, I used
Contour Script 75 with a thread made from two strands of different colors twisted together.
Next, the navy corduroy case shown here has Pinstripes Vertical lettering, arranged vertically.   
Finally, I stitched my name in Fancy Jumbles on the black doe suede wide case.

You will need these products for your Zip-Around Eyeglass Case:

Fancy Jumbles Alphabets, Contour Script Alphabets or Pinstripes Alphabets.
Embroidery thread for embroidery and top stitching.
Stabilizer for machine embroidery.
Outer fabric (denim, doe suede, sturdy cotton, upholstery fabric):  10” x 10” for the original or  6”
     high x 16” wide for the wide case.
Lining fabric (soft woven or knit cotton):  same amount.
Fusible fleece:  same amount (plus 2 3/8” x 6” for optional inner pocket for wide case).
Nylon or polyester coil zipper, 12” or longer for original shape, 18” or longer for wide opening. 
     (NOTE:  The zipper technique requires coil zippers.  Metal or plastic teeth will not interlock when
     half the zipper is upside down.)
Thread.
Seam sealant such as Fray Check or Fray Block.
OPTIONAL:  6” of narrow ribbon for zipper pull.

                                                                       --Carol

     Machine embroidery is an expensive craft.  We have to buy our embroidery
machines, then designs and/or software for creating and adapting designs, special threads,
and finally stabilizers.  It is difficult to reduce expenses on most of these necessities and still
get good results, but I’ve figured out a way to economize on stabilizer.  I would like to share
this technique with you, and have written a lesson (see below) for this purpose.

     I named my technique Piggyback Hooping because one design rides right behind another. 
The technique—in which multiple designs are stitched in a single hooping—not only uses
the hooped stabilizer more completely, but reduces the number of times we must hoop in
order to stitch the same number of designs.  Moreover, the amount of stabilizer that sits
outside the hoop is not wasted multiple times as it would be if we hooped each design
separately.

     The figure below shows examples of some common hoop sizes.  Note that two or more
designs can fit in the hoop, depending on the size of the hoop and the sizes of the designs. 
For the Piggyback Hooping lesson I used the 150mm x 240mm hoop and the three designs
you see pictured in it.  However, you can easily adapt my instructions to any size of hoop.

     To decide if my technique will help you, here are some things to consider when you set out
to embroider.  First, each design must use only a small portion of the available hoop area. 
This is just a matter of real estate!  If one design nearly fills the hoop, there will be not
enough room for another design.

     Second, the fabric must be open and easy to maneuver in the hoop.  It is easier to sew
designs on two pieces of fabric for tote bags than it is to hoop two tote bags.  I would not
suggest Piggyback Hooping for embroidery on winter coats, quilts, or other bulky items.

     The hoop would not be able to support the weight of all that fabric and it would be very
hard to position the second design.  You will need to move the excess fabric aside after
em-broidering a design, in order to make room for the next piece of fabric.

     Finally, the same type and weight of stabilizer must be appropriate for all the designs and
fabrics.  Tearaway, cutaway and washaway stabilizers work best for different types of
embroideries and fabrics, as we sometimes learn the hard way.  There is no economy if our
designs stitch out poorly.
   
     The embroideries you will see in the lesson are for my Zip-Around Eyeglass Cases.  (I plan
to tell you more about those in a future blog—please stay tuned!)  However, the Piggyback
Hooping technique is just as useful for many other small designs and projects.  For
example, the pillowcases and the double pockets projects I shared in the past are suitable for
small embroidery designs; I’m sure you’ll think of many other projects, too.  In fact, with all
the money you save on stabilizer, you’ll be able to acquire more of my alphabets!

     You will need the following items:

• Embroidery thread.
• Embroidery designs such as my Fancy Jumbles, Pinstripes, and Contour Script alphabets.
• Stabilizer.
• Fade-away or Wash-away marking pen or tailor’s chalk (for marking right side of fabric).
• Fabrics required for projects.
• Flexible plastic ruler with 1/8” grid (available at office supply stores).
• Finally, you can download the complete instructions here.

— Carol

In this blog I will share another way to use my Fancy Jumbles alphabets.  I like embroidering them on bags and caddies, but they also make a very lively addition to a pillow case for a child – or even for an adult.  My friend Pauline Fisher, from Sydney, Australia, made this pillowcase for her grandson Jonah.  She matched the colors for the letters to the colors in the print and then added an adorable trim as an accent.  It is an easy project that will make any child eager for bed time.

 Does your child or grandchild have a passion for dinosaurs?  Or ballerinas?  Or trucks or jungle animals?  Does your teen have a favorite sports team?  Does your husband enjoy fishing or hunting?  Do you love bright geometric or floral prints?  Whatever the interest, you can likely find a print fabric that will be just perfect.  There is also a wide range of trims and rickracks that you can use as accents.  You can make pillowcases for everyone on your gift list and never repeat a combination.

Below, you'll see two more pillowcases that Pauline made.  The pink print with butterflies and dragonflies is just perfect for Alexa.  Pauline used pastel embroidery threads to finish the “girly” look.  Aiden’s bold jungle print pillowcase called for strong colors for the embroidery.

As you see, you can vary the width of the embroidered panel to suit the design or the amount of print fabric you have.  The instructions include two methods for making the pillowcase.  The band on Embroidered Pillowcase 1 goes completely around the opening, as we often see on purchased pillowcases.  In contrast, Embroidered Pillowcase 2 has a band only on the front, and the back has an extra flap that keeps the pillow from falling out. Click on the Embroidered Pillowcase links above to download instructions for both styles of pillowcase.  Either style will take about one hour to complete.

You will need these products for your Embroidered Pillowcase:

Fancy Jumbles Alphabets, available at http://www.annthegran.com/online_store/fancyjumbles.htm

Print fabric:  3/4 yard to 1 1/4 yards of 45 inch wide fabric (depending on construction method).

Trim:  45” or 22” rickrack or trim in contrasting color fabric (depending on construction method).

Outer band fabric:  1/3 yard (or more for wider band) of 45 inch wide cotton fabric, solid or nearly solid color.  NOTE:  Nearly solid fabrics include marble prints, some batiks, tiny polka dots.

Thread

Embroidery thread

Stabilizer

Sweet dreams!

        — Carol

I love bright colors. I especially love them on a black or very dark background, where they can really pop. I also love designing and sewing useful totes, bags and caddies of all sorts. The Caddy for sewing gadgets pictured here is one example of the way I combine my interests. I'll talk about this Caddy later in this post, but first let me introduce myself.

Born and raised in St. Louis, I now live about 40 miles west of Chicago. Like many of you, I started out by sewing doll clothes. I made clothes out of felt for my troll dolls. It was in junior high (too many years ago!) that I learned to sew on a sewing machine, and I kept on with it ever since.

I started designing bags when my children were in school. I discovered that teachers love tote bags, so I made them as gifts. I also learned how useful they are for me. I can always find an excuse to make myself another tote bag.

In 1994 I first became aware of automated machine embroidery. The idea of being able to create my own designs really interested me. I finally bought my first machine, a Husqvarna Viking Designer I, in 1999. I also bought the then-current System 5 Professional embroidery software. Since then, I have upgraded to each new version of the software. I particularly enjoy digitizing alphabets. There are so many ways to play with color and personalize an item at the same time.

The Fancy Jumbles alphabet pictured on the Gadgets Caddy is one example. There are ten alphabets, all with the same shape but each with a different "fill pattern" (stripes, polka dots, etc.). Choosing a different fill and color for each letter and slightly tilting the letters creates a fun and playful look suitable for almost any kind of project.

If you want a more tailored style of lettering, look at the Pinstripes alphabet shown on this water bottle caddy. The caddy was a gift for the husband of a cousin, so I wanted the lettering to look masculine.

Contour Script is my newest alphabet. The latest upgrade to my software includes a new contour fill pattern. The stitching fills an area by following its shape. Tone on tone, this fill can be very subtle. Variegated on a contrasting background? Wow! I have had many complements on this lettering, and also requests for me to offer it for sale.

Now, back to my caddy...

We all have sewing gadgets that go astray on our sewing table. They get knocked to the floor when we move large amounts of fabric and they never come when we call them! This caddy will keep your gadgets and tools handy and out of the way of danger. The instructions include specific measurements for pocket divisions, but you can adapt the divisions to fit your own collection of useful gadgets. You can also add your name to the embroidery to make it more personal.

When some members of my internet sewing group met last month for a party, I decided that this caddy would be fun to make for our gift exchange. I found some multi-colored jumbo rickrack and then matched the letters in the Fancy Jumbles embroidery to the colors in the rickrack. The friend who "won" this gift will certainly think of me whenever she sews. I will soon make one of these caddies for my own sewing room and will remember the fun for years to come.

Would you like to make your own Embroidered Gadgets Caddy? Click here to view a .pdf file with instructions. The sewing is easy (just straight seams), but it does take some time to bind the pocket edges and attach the pockets. I recommend allowing yourself four to five hours for completion, but you probably don't sew as slowly as I do. I enjoy myself too much to rush.

You will need these products for your Embroidered Gadgets Caddy:

Fancy Jumbles Alphabets, available at http://www.annthegran.com/online_store/fancyjumbles.htm

Denim or other sturdy 60" wide fabric.

Embroidery machine. (Mine is a brand-new Husqvarna Viking Designer Diamond.)

150 mm x 240 mm embroidery hoop or bigger, depending on your embroidery design.

Extra-wide double-fold bias binding.

Jumbo rickrack (optional).

3/4" wide sew-in hook and loop fastener.

Tear-away stabilizer.

Embroidery thread.

Thread for sewing.

Plastic or wooden clothes hanger with base at least 15" across and no vertical divisions.

Have fun with your Embroidered Gadgets Caddy!

- Carol