I have used thinner threads for certain types of embroidery.  For instance, some monograms can be more elegant with a lighter thread.

When we buy embroidery thread, we usually get the 40 weight.  Thread is sold by the weight.   Here is a simplified explanation of that criteria:

The size is based on the length of the thread required to have a weight of 1 kilogram.  Therefore, if it takes 40 kilometers to weigh 1 kilogram, a lighter-weight thread will take 50 kilometers to weigh 1 kilo. 

I really find that interesting, because the European numbers are somewhat different from the American numbers.  As I understand it, European numbers take into consideration the ply information.  Just the same, if you keep in mind that you are looking at length, it makes sense. 

For further understanding and some good visual information, you will want to look at my blog from nearly 2 years ago.  See it here.  The blog is about needles, but thread is discussed as well. 

You may recognize that your bobbin thread is normally around 60 weight (light).  And, after doing some research and practical experience, I agree with purchasing prewound bobbins rather than doing them yourself.  There are a few reasons:

1. You are not saving any money doing it yourself.  You still need to buy thread, and use batteries or electricity.  Don't forget how valuable your time is as well!
2. Prewound bobbins are very tightly wound.  You cannot wind them as efficiently and evenly at home.
3. Prewound bobbins are usually a lot longer in length, therefore, you will not have to change the bobbin as often - - a frustration saver there!

The exception is when you are doing free standing lace (fsl).   FSL does usually require creating your own bobbins.  However, just a little tip, if your color is very light or very dark, you may find that using white or black prewound bobbins will be nearly invisible. 

I have several of the bobbin spool holders and you can get them right here at AnnTheGran.  This bobbin system is a welcome, easy and visible method to store your growing stash of bobbins neatly.

Next, I want to discuss ‘fill.'  We use 40 weight thread because it is recognized by digitizers as being the most available to most people worldwide.  If you are having someone digitize a design for you, thread weight should be one of the questions they will ask you.  We use 60 weight in bobbin because we don't want a lot of thread on the backside of our designs.  (Again, check my needle blog for the visual.  At the end of the blog, there is a link to ‘test' your tension - which should be done regularly.)

So, if you really want to have a more 3D effect, find some lower numbered thread.  It will make your embroidery stand out from the fabric more. 

I went in the opposite direction on this project.  I decided to try a design for a dog in which the digitizer uses stitching they call "photo stitch" designs.  It is one method digitizers use to make a design a little more life like. 

It was a Sunday afternoon when I decided to try this test.  I fretted over the fact that I would need to get some lightweight thread and that would happen on Monday.   Well, duh, I can use my bobbin thread!  And, better than that, I had purchased (when I was a Newbie) a spool of bobbin thread.  That bobbin thread was 70 weight.  So, if you decide to try this one, you have everything you need, no shopping needed - - Yea!!  (Well, darn, I love to shop).

The photo does not show the true difference between the completed projects.  The one on the left was a 40 weight, and the right was 70.  I did it on as contrasting a scrap as I could find.  I hope you get the idea.

These photos may be of a little more help.

Think how interesting and delicate using a lighter weight thread would be on white/red/black work!  Dainty would be the word for something to place in a 'Hope Chest' for a sweet little girl.

I am also going to be doing an item from my Bridal site, and it calls for Quilters Cotton and specifically says not to use embroidery thread, for various reasons.  I learned a lot from this project.  I hope you did too.  My ramblings are about what I am doing, only.  I wish I were an expert, but alas, I am always learning from my projects.

Did you learn something on a previous project that you would like to share?  I know you have, let us all learn from you too!  You could create a 'guest blog' where you just write as if we were sitting down over coffee.  Add a couple of photos, and you have something worthy of sharing.  Please consider it!

Pat

One of my favorite authors was Shel Silverstein; he was truly one of a kind.  In addition to many books, poetry and artist, he wrote the music and lyrics for "A Boy Named Sue."  You can read more about him here.

As a teenager, my daughter was really touched when she read The Giving Tree.  It is one of his most famous books, and was a modest success when it first arrived on the scene.  Since that time, it has sold more than 5.5 million copies in 30 languages as a best seller that is likely to be on the shelf in your local book store right now. 

When I saw an embroidery design called "The Tranquility Tree", I felt like it was something I wanted to use in a creative project with The Giving Tree in mind.  This is what I came up with.

I had wanted to use an unusual fabric/material/textile in its design.  I did not have to look any further than my laundry room.  I selected the dryer fabric softener that I use.  There were a couple of things that I did not realize about that cloth.  First was that a ‘used' cloth was not necessarily a ‘completely' used cloth.  There were still chemicals left in that cloth.  The second thing was that when I used water paint on the cloth that I used in several dryer loads, it still would not take the paint evenly.

So, I spattered on some paint because the paint was an afterthought anyway.  The main concept was the tree and the dryer cloth.

The next consideration was a strong color for the background.  I checked out several colors, including brown, red and green.  I selected the green for my background.

I sewed out the design and wanted to use a ‘frame' along with the tree.  With 34 different and unusual designs, those frames supersede those on my machine.  In the end, I used an oval - - so much for innovation.

I wanted to showcase the interesting design so I made the frame a little smaller than the design.  You can just see the sun and two roots peeking out from the embroidered frame.

After trimming to the frame, I was pleased with the outcome.  The only thing I would change is to have used more vibrant colors for the sun, water (horizontal lines) and roots. 

What do you think??

I like the smoky affect the dryer cloth gives.  Using net, organza, voile or other delicate fabric may be even more beautiful.

Maybe it is my age, or maybe it is just because things change, but so often, I think of things I could have added to previous blogs.

As you are aware, my blogs are all my personal experiences that I share with you.  I appreciate it when someone comments and adds their suggestion, knowledge or idea to my blog.  It gives us all an opportunity to try new things and share expertise at all levels.  I recall the story of Edison, the inventor of the electric light bulb who gave the issue his own viewpoint, and what had been an unsolvable issue a product.  I am sure that after that event, others came along with new and innovative changes and enhancements.  Evolution is not limited to humans.

So, let's get started.

• My very last blog was about a way to hoop things that you want to be centered or placed at a certain spot. I noted that I used two sheets of tear away stabilizer. I did not mention that I generally do NOT hoop both of them. I may use a piece of scrap, assuming that it is large enough, and position some glue in corners or edge so that the glue does not interfere with the embroidery. There are two reasons for this: One is the glue gets on the needle making it sticky and two is that saving money is important to me and those scraps of stabilizer are valuable.
  When I float a scrap piece, I usually put it inside the hoop. However, if I start to embroider and find that I need more stabilizer, I can place it under the hoop.

• I have used this "secret" for about 4 years without a single problem. I have read and heard not to do it, but I have had success, so here is a tip you can take or kick to the curb as you please:
  I use canned Silicon spray that you will find in the automotive department, and perhaps in your own garage, to lubricate my thread. Gasp! It works for me but let me give you a few cautions:
  • Spray away from everything including your machine. I spray on a newspaper section and spray very lightly.
  • I spray the entire thread area. I spray the front and back, and you will see that it is slightly ‘wet.' It is not really wet in a water sense, it is silicon. Let it dry completely, it only takes a minute or two.
  • While I spray my thread, I spray my thumb and forefinger and rub the needle.
  • Never spray on a floor, painted area or item that may become too slick to handle, like a glass or the like. You will, in this order, fall, be unable to repaint or hold on to an item. 
  • Make sure you understand that this should not be inhaled or otherwise taken into the body. 
   
• I just read a tip that I want to share with you - the tip said that you could fold up some water soluble stabilizer if you had to embroider over a seam like you would find in a jean pant leg.  You would use it as a 'step down' from the thick seam, down to the folded stabilizer and then down to the fabric.  Well, it did not work for me. . . Perhaps I did not do it exactly right, but it was as difficult to sew as the seam.  Instead, I used a rubber mallet to pound the seam down - gently for sure, but just enough to help the embroidery work in a tough area.

 

• Attention all Newbies!! (We love you!!!!!) If you started embroidering within the last 2 years, please, please check the Tension on your machine. You can do that by using the ‘test' in my Needle Blog. You need to repeat this test a few times per year, or if you are experiencing "nesting" (loops under the fabric) or uneven top stitching. If your adjustments don't help, it is time to get thee to the technician.

 

• Rayon or Polyester? Well, this is a fun question. There was some discussion in my "What I Wish I Knew" blog - near the beginning of my blogs! In that same blog, there was a great discussion about obsolescence in all things, not limited to embroidery! Things are changing all the time and embroidery is having a boon because, for the home user, it is a relatively new craft. I estimate (I have no specific dates) that the home embroidery market came on site coinciding with the Internet. That puts it around 20+ years.
  So, back to the question, what is better Rayon or Polyester? The answer is - - it depends. For instance, Rayon was once the only thread, exception is silk, with sheen. Polyester has caught up, more or less, but you need to inspect the thread itself. Some polyester is dull; however, it has ‘wear ability' that Rayon is a bit short of. Polyester will withstand jeans, sun and bleaching, not so much with Rayon. Rayon has its fine points, for instance, it is wonderful for heirloom/keepsake types of projects. The coloration, IMHO, is more beautiful. Keep both on hand, I have not found a problem with using them in the same project. If anyone has a different experience, I would like to hear from you - please do comment at the end of the blog.

 

• This is something that I have done for a long time, and I find that when I am having difficulty, I simply slow the machine down.
  I know that we all Ooo'd and Aaa'd over the speed of a new machine, but when the chips are down, sometimes a few minutes extra time with stitching is just the ticket. My machine does 800 stitches per minute, but slowing down to 600 or even 350 stitches adds very few minutes and if it prevents a rethreading, the trade off is nonexistent.

 

• I just got my very first (used) Serger, and frankly, you who already have one have been keeping this secret too long! I have had so much fun just learning to use it that I am not sleeping as much as normal - - yawn! I do have a tip for you, when you bring your new baby home, take a lot of photos of where the settings and threads are. If you have one, you know what I mean. If you are considering one, ask for a demonstration and take your digital camera - borrow one if necessary. Make sure its battery is charged and make a video of the demo. Try to be where there is little or no background noise and ask a lot of questions, silly or not.
  Threading is challenging but well worth it.

 

Til next time, thanks for reading, your input is really appreciated!

Over time, I have enjoyed doing my embroidery a great deal.  Even when I was frustrated in the beginning (not necessarily limited to the beginning) when everything looked like a snarled mess, I just never wanted to give up. 

I listened to what the dealer's salespersons had to say. (Frankly, she had little patience with me.) But, I kept trying.  I read whatever I could get my hands on, and asked as many questions as I could.  Some of those questions were probably dumb, but I persisted.

One of the things that I wanted better results on was centering.  At one point, I got to the point that I nearly never inserted fabric into my hoop because it was so time consuming to center it.  The result was that I had created a different issue, attempting to stabilize a floating piece of fabric. 

As anyone who embroiders knows, stabilizing is a challenge in itself.  I have gone on record several times as saying "it is easy to under stabilize, but difficult to over stabilize (my blog on stabilization) a project." 

I don't want anyone to feel like they should use 5 layers of something, but stabilizers are a part of a ‘discovery' sew.  That is where you utilize your planned project materials, and determine if any adjustments are needed. 

Some embroiderers may have experienced "bullet proof" embroidery.  That is the result of stitching being too close, too short, too dense or just poor digitizing, but not normally from stabilizer.  So use enough, but be reasonable.  Use the best quality of stabilizers that you can afford.  You all know that I am a big fan of Ann's Club and the great prices for stabilizers that they offer.  I don't take my recommendations lightly either.

Getting back to the subject of this blog, centering is a challenge for me.  Just like any athlete who is having issues with a certain aspect of play, I did what a coach would have told them to do - "Get back to the basics."  I looked into my machines manual and thought that the method it shows was a little understated.

I have tried their method, and had limited success.  So, I came up with my own method of hooping with the clear and marked template that came with my machine. 

First, I placed my stabilizer in the hoop.  Don't forget that your inner/top hoop has a top and bottom which should be marked in some way.  Mine has an arrow embossed into the frame and I use my black permanent marker so I can see it faster.

I placed the top hoop and tightened the release screw which causes a crease in the stabilizer.  I left them together as I finished working with my material and template.

Next, I determined the center of my project.  I do it by folding, if possible.  I mark the spot with the water erasing pen. 

I carefully placed my template over the mark on my fabric.  Since I was doing a pillowcase, I had the advantage of having the cuff seam to use as my horizontal guide.  If you look closely, you can just see my marking and seam.

I read one of the tips in the Forum that noted that use of ‘painting tape' is very good for positioning a project.  That makes sense to me because there won't be anything left behind on my template or fabric and it is easy to remove as well.  (I had some on my wall for 3 weeks and it still came off easily.)

So, when I was happy with my layout, I used the tape to secure the template to the fabric. 

Between the tape and the crease in the stabilizer, placing my project was really easy.  I removed the top hoop, placed my template/fabric into the bottom hoop and moved it just a little bit to make sure that it was where I wanted it.

I put the top hoop over all the pieces, and as it was where I wanted it, I could tighten the screw.  I can remove the tape if I choose, but frankly, it is not in the way, and it adds a little bit of friction to my fabric for a better hooping.  The pillowcase fabric is very soft and this friction is just a bonus.

Of course, it is time to remove the template and sewing is accurate. 

If you do not have a template, you can use a piece of lightweight cardboard and the top hoop as a guide for cutting.  The machines template is actually a little smaller than the top hoop so that it can be removed before sewing.

Make a center hole about 1 to 1.5" (25 to 37 mm) so that the midpoint will be visible as you work.

I can hoop again.  Keep in mind that hooping the fabric is part of the stabilization process, and is very important for the best results. 

BTW, when was the last time you checked your thread tension?  Check my blog regarding testing your tension.  You should do this every few months. 

It is summertime here in southern California.  That actually means that the days are balmy to hot and the nights are balmy to cold. My friend rents his beach side condo and he laughs about the people from Arizona. They come here to cool off, and then in the evenings, they need a blazing fire in the fireplace!

Actually, anywhere you go in southern California, the sales of sweatshirts are always brisk just about sunset.

With Independence Day just around the corner, I wanted to make a set of coasters. I have some holiday designs, and Annthegran created a frame that is available to my readers! 

I will be using some different fabrics to see how I can make my own coasters. 

I am using some felt, chambray and batting pieces along with clear, light weight vinyl. I also need my applique scissors, my mother and her mother used Gingher, and I do too.

I hooped my medium weight tearaway, a piece of batting and topped it off with a piece of red felt. (If you did not see the calculations on stabilizer pricing, check my other blog "The Computerist" out.)

My sewn design was just delightful; it is a bit of summer in red, white and blue.

Sew the first line in the coaster design.  Do not remove the project from the hoop. Cut the edge with the scissors, as closely as possible.  Don't cut the stitching.

Add the back fabric, I chose more felt for my first coaster, and add the clear vinyl.  That vinyl is available at any fabric store.  I floated a piece of tearaway stabilizer because the vinyl was 'sticking' to the machine.  I did add a small amount of spray adhesive, but just in the corners.  I find that works best for spray adhesives. 

Sew the second line and trim the back of the hoop fabric, again closely without cutting the stitching. 

Use matching top and bobbin thread and sew the final coaster satin stitching.

Tear away the stabilizer, trim if necessary.

I did a second design, this time I used white fabric on top and a chambray fabric on the back. I still used the vinyl on the back.

What do you think of the results? I think I am going to do the white and chambray as a whole set for the holiday.

Here is the back photo.

This would be great with a monogram inside the coaster as well!!!

Thank you for reading my blog.  You all inspire me with your comments!

I suppose we all have had this happen from time to time (or more often!) that we are minding our own business, and out of the blue comes something that inspires you in a manner that you cannot ignore.

Mine started with a button.  I was walking through a local department store and from 30 feet away, a set of buttons, hanging innocently from a rack, caught my eye.  My feet winged me to the button, and I don't exactly know how, the button just talked to me. . .   I knew I had to create a project around that button set (there were 3 and were coordinated, not alike).  Jeez, it is so wonderful when your brain is ticking and tocking away with thoughts of wonderful items that would be the talk of the next picnic, party or any event. 

Well, I had not done anything for my 18 month old granddaughter in about 3 days, so she is going to get my latest and greatest find. 

I decided to put it on a simple summer shirt, I love the adorable Garanimal collection.  Since my daughter lives in Phoenix, something light is needed to work for my granddaughter.  I selected one in Sunshine Yellow!  I really mean SUNSHINE! 

Next, I wanted to have a simple embroidery design to compliment the buttons and be fun at the same time.  Well, since I felt it was a great blog item, I contacted Diane Brown (aka The Keep It Simple Diva) to get a sweet  baby design that I would be able to share with you.  As usual, Diane (the woman of many talents) had something that was perfect!   You get the footie design here courtesy of AnnTheGran!!!

After embroidery and button placement, I got started with DalCrystals.  These crystals are every bit as good as Swarovski Crystals but at a significantly better price.  I enjoy using them on everything that I embroider and other things as well.  Just like embroidery, anything that will stand still is fair game for DalCrystals.  LOL 

I added green painted toe nails and a few on the neckline.  I think it is sometimes difficult for me to decide when to stop, I just could have put crystals all over that shirt. . . .

I really wish my camera would show the great sparkle.  It does not show my embroidery very well either. 

Well, then I thought, I had planned to do an embroidered birth plaque for each of their walls.  So, I started on that too. . . .

After 51 thread colors, with 61 thread changes (total for the two - ), I had two wonderful items for the kids' rooms.

You can see in the designer's photo that there is much detail, therefore 35 color changes.  For any newbie out there who is thinking of adjusting those colors for fewer thread changes, let me say this:  the digitizer is laying stitches precisely where they need to be for this specific placement.  If you "shortcut" and make one color completely run through at a time, you may lose some of the detail. 

Again, my camera needs adjustment because, despite some color changes (hair and dress), my sew out is as lovely as the design photo above.  Here is the collection for Morango, but you can buy them separately as welll.

My project is almost complete, I just need frames for my birth plaques. 

When I go to the store, I hope I don't find another "idea," because I need to dust and vacuum the house. .  And this all started with a button.

Best wishes to you and yours, Pat

It is time for perfect brides to be walking down a perfect isle, in a perfect gown, with a perfect man.  Well, many of us need to come up with a perfect gift in any event.

LaRue, the Quilter Extraordinaire, and I like to exchange ideas of what we will be blogging about here at AnnTheGran.  She had the best idea for me.  I told her I had seen those double cuffed pillowcases and she said she had the easiest pattern available.  Enter the quickest, easiest project I have done in years.

I had some material that was lying around for a long time.  You know that material that we have to find a place to put because we cannot bear to part with it?  Here is the sample set I chose:

The beige fabric is linen look, but a lot softer.  The strip of ribbon was just purchases from Wal-mart - you do know they are liquidating their fabrics permanently, don't you?  And the bottom fabric was a scrap piece of lace that is not very large, so this project is perfect. 

After using lace, I don't recommend using it for the cuff for various reasons, but in this case, it was a little too 'open' in the weave and caused some sewing issues.  But I decided that is what I wanted, so here goes the steps.

1-1/3 Yards 45" pillowcase fabric (cut to two 24" lengths, one for each case)

4" to 6" by width of fabric for accent (ribbon is an easy choice)

10" by width of fabric for cuff

Standard pillowcases are 22" wide, so the 45" fabric makes it very easy to plan your project.

Iron your accent and cuff fabric by folding in half lengthwise.  You will have a long piece of accent (about 3" by about 42") and the cuff is done the same (about 5" by about 42").  You want a sharp edge on these pieces of fabric so that your finished project will be crisp and clean.

Lay down all three materials.  The bottom layer is the cuff, unfolded and wrong side up; the second layer is the accent piece, folded with selvage edge in the pinning area; and the top is the case material, open and wrong side down.  Pin them together making sure that edges are well aligned.

Roll the case material up to that top, pinned area.  You now have pieces that are the length (42") of the fabric, but only about 4" or 5" wide.

Pull the edge of the cuff material up around the rolled case material and pin to the top edge. 

Sew the seam which includes the bottom layer wrong side of cuff, the edge of the accent fabric, the wrong side of the case material, and finally, the other side of the cuff material.  Because my upper and bottom layers were both lace, I used scraps from Badgemaster stabilizer.  It will wash right out, and the lace did not get tangled as it was sewn.  Read more about Badgemaster at my blog specifically for it.  It is one great wss!

Turn open the cuff material, and turn the inside fabrics out.  The end result is an almost finished pillowcase. 

Close the top and side seams and press.  Your pillowcase is a joy and it takes only about an hour to do the whole process.

I am gong to work with Alphabet Xpress to add the names of my bride and groom, nothing is easier to work with for names, phrases, dates and so much more.

The best part of this project (beside the fact that it is quick and easy) is that you can combine lots of fabrics.  Here are a few of my next projects, and I am not sure which will be the case fabric, the accent fabric, or the cuff.  How fun is that?

I have always been a fan of scarves.  They are feminine, fluid and so graceful.  They brighten up a dull outfit, ward off the cold and can signify that you are a member of a group.  What else in the universe is so - - universal?

I personally have a very short neck and a large scarf is an overpowering element for me.  As time marched on, I have some features on my neck that were not there just a short time ago.  I am interested in concealing those lines (OK, I said it - lines, wrinkles, turkey neck).

If you were at the Community Circle in 2009, you met Rita Faro - - Well, you did not exactly meet her, you more got exposed to the whirlwind that is known as Rita Faro!  She does have a blog. Stop by and tell her I sent you! 

She has this scarf in her book "Life is Not A Dress Size." which is only available in the secondary market.

Here is the scarf.  I took it from Rita's book, and we discussed its ‘ownership' and could not determine who it belongs to, so you are getting the instructions free.

The basic measurements are 21" by 13" by 4" by a curve.  This requires a 5/8 of a yard of 45" material, so you may have a scrap piece that is just right for this project.  As noted in the pattern area, that curve can be done as you please.  There is no wrong way to do it.  I was thinking that I could do it as a straight line if I wanted it that way. 

If you are taller, you might want to increase the 21" length.  If you want the shoulders wider, increase the 13" side.

You could use just one piece.  In that case, you would have to use a fabric without a ‘right and wrong' side.  You would finish it with a rolled hem on the edge. 

I have a beautiful pattern on a (too bulky) scarf and I am going to use it to make a converted scarf for myself. 

For this demo, I choose the 2 piece design, and added embroidery near the bottom of the curve on all the tail ends.  The fabric I used is cotton, but I could have used any light weight material.  It would even be interesting for a 'fur' type of material around the holidays.  Hmm. . .

The rose is absolutely fantastic. It has 3 greens and 4 reds making the shading and detail very well presented.  It is being given to all my readership!!!  Rosebud  You can use this design as an accent to so many things!  Thank You Ann!

The rose would be elegant on anyone of the AllAboutBlanks items.  Check that blog for information and ideas: 

The high quality of Susan Mars' products will be a big hit with a graduate, a bride or someone who wants to feel special!   

Mother's Day will be upon us soon.  Since my mother has already completed her earthly journey, I thought it was time to look at the new mothers in my world.  These are going to be great for a new mother to decorate a nursery.

When I went to school, (before computers - but not before paper LOL) we hand-made a lot of crafts for our moms and dads.

One of my favorite methods which I believe is still in use today, is the spatter painting technique.  That is where you put paint on a stiff brush and then drag a dull knife across the bristles to create a light, medium or large dot on your paper.

The tools I am using are still simple.  The only piece that is a little more advanced is my ‘mop' brush.

This brush is a size 0, costs between $20 and $50, some synthetics can be found for even less.  I found it once in a marked down bin and thought it was cool.  When I purchased it I had no idea what it was for. . .

A mop brush is round, made of soft, absorbent natural squirrel hair.  It is used mainly for watercolor or writing/printing.  When used in watercolor, it would be used not only to lay down the paint, but if there were too much water in one spot, it would be dried gently and placed on the liquid to absorb excess paint or water.  It is known for its absorbent character while allowing for a very sharp point.  When you are done using any expensive brush, be sure to clean using the proper solvent.  With a limp brush such as this one, it is advisable to dip in milk and gently reshape its soft hair.

I used it for making swirls and larger dots because it is very limp. 

I began by using my highly technical tools - a tooth brush and a paint scraper.  My paint bucket is a votive candle holder.

I used acrylic paints and watered them down for my purpose.  I just wanted a light spray, and the thicker paint would result in a denser spatter. 

I forgot to cut the lid link on the paint pot and made a mess trying to use the blue, it was all over the place.  Cut the top link with scissors but leave the bottom together for ease of use and storage. Duh!

I was having so much fun.  That is a problem when I ‘paint' (I use the term very loosely) because once I start, I want to keep on going, and going, and going.

But I stopped and I do like the result.  It is like a party without the noise.

I had three designs for a baby and embroidered them in a jiffy.  The ones I used were from the Download Designs section where I Searched on "Baby's Nursery."  These three were by a single designer that I liked.  They have a really great stitch pattern on the large sections. 

Here is the resulting gift.  I can hardly wait to see the look on the new mother's face when she sees a touch of whimsy for her new nursery.

Well, I like my projects anyway.  I will make more of these and sell them. 

Speaking of selling, don't forget that I sell my Spreadsheet, How much to charge for your embroidery projects.  You will really like that helpful, easy method of making that choice.  Don't work for free and don't be overcharging your clients.

Ribbons have been a part of embellishments, decorating and crafting ever since man first figured out how to tie a knot.  That was about 45 minutes after man discovered fire - I think he wanted his amore to be pretty in the glow of the flames.

Ribbons are the easy to use.  Like a paper clip, there are minimal instructions needed to use them after you know how to make that knot. 

There are so many interesting things that you can do with a bow.  I did find a fun site, Gift Basket Business which is hosted by Shirley George Frazier.  If you want to know how to make a great, standard ribbon bow, you can find it at this easy to understand and replicate bow video.

Embroidered ribbons are a little different, but can be adapted to create some great variations.  Here are just a few that I figured out.  I know you will think of many others.  Please feel free to share that information with us!

As you may already know, I only use Badgemaster stabilizer for my Free Standing Lace (FSL).  I also use the brayer after I have rinsed my FSL because it creates a very flat embroidery surface.  If you iron embroidery to get that smooth surface, you will lose some of the three dimensional effect of embroidery.   As you can see, Badgemaster comes in the professional size as well as professional quality.

There are a few times of the year when we have a greater feeling of love, warmth and joy and Easter, for me, is one of those.

I remember Easter in Ohio and think of the many times the weather did not exactly say "Spring Is Here" or even "Winter Is Nearly Over."  But I mostly reminisce about the family gathering and having dinner.  That tradition carried over to my family.  After church, I loved having the kids find those eggs.  We lived in Phoenix and the sunny mornings were wonderful for finding eggs (and if possible, before the dog could get them). 

My son moved to Chicago and married a lovely woman who lived a somewhat different childhood.  When they went to hide eggs for their own children, something interesting happened.  Mike, my son, headed outdoors, but Margaret, his wife, was going to hide them in the house.  You see, she grew up in a high rise in Chicago, so they saw 'hiding' differently.  We all laughed at that one!  BTW, she lived in the same high rise as was shown on the original "Bob Newhart" show.  So, you know exactly where Margaret grew up!

Traditions may vary, but giving a keepsake at this wonderful time of year is a great way to kick off the spring season.

This year, I am using a basket that has been a favorite for several years now.  It is a standard bearer and seen its share of eggs and grass - real and not so real.  I did not change it this year, but I did add a little something that my Mother made, probably in the 1950's. 

While Mom has been gone for over 5 years, I still find items that she created.  She loved to sew, crochet, and especially, tat.  She tried in vain to teach me to tat, but that shuttle was just beyond me.  I remember her slipping the silver tool in and out, up and down and all around creating lovely lace.

I found several of her handkerchiefs and most of them were full of holes.  That was really sad for me because none of these lovely laced items had ever been used.  I don't know what the fabric is, but I suspect that it is some sort of cotton. 

Here is a photo of us in May of 2003.  She just had her hair done, and managed to pinch one of the male hairdressers in the tushy about 3 minutes before this photo.

She was one feisty lady!  Here are some of the items she created.  I did not realize just how breath taking these were until I gently rinsed and pressed these hankies.  Only the bottom one is crocheted. 

And here is the basket, adorned with a gift that took over 50 years to find its way to someone special.

I love the parasol and it sure goes well with a little girl's Easter Outfit.

I know that many of you are working or considering working on a Bible Cover as an Easter gift.  I wanted to show you some wonderful ideas that are ON SALE for 30% off! (My personal favorite word.)  This first one would be excellent for Easter and all year round.

One can nearly see the light shining through the design. 

If you have a Baptismal in either the past or future, I loved this design for its simplicity.  A Bible Cover with this, or as a framed project would be a wonderful heirloom.

And, I have a bride's shower coming up soon.  I am getting her a nice cookbook.  I will be making a cover for it, and I thought this design (and any of it's mates) would make a great design.

 Best wishes to you and yours, Pat

I love a product that shows ingenuity and innovation. 

Consider the humble (grin) computer.  When it was first introduced, it was truly simple and almost childlike.  The same goes for many things, like a car or washing machines or millions of other great ideas that evolve and grow over time. 

One item, intended to make our lives more organized, was the computer database.  Initial database types of information were rudimentary and left much to be desired.  They had a significant learning curve, and required the client to determine what they needed, in advance, and was a guessing game for most users. 

I could go on and on because, for three years, I was the ‘database facilitator' for a major state agency.  I saw the disappointment and frustration of those who needed to input data and get out information that was useful to them. 

Enter CatalogIT.  In order for a database to be successfully used, several things need to be in place.  Here are some of the issues, in no particular order, and is not a complete list by any means:

• It needs to be easy to learn - a complex database may look good on paper, but a good database works with the user, not against them.
• It needs to be flexible - starting out and ongoing, it needs change to be easy to do.
• It needs to intake the appropriate information and a relational manner. This means that some info is entered only once and other is entered multiple times. i.e., Name of item, address, part numbers versus colors under a single item or size under a single item.
• It needs to output information in a simple and recognizable fashion. i.e., Select only red items or Select only items that are in stock.
• It needs to be understandable by others who may need to access the information but are not directly involved with the information.

So, you can see that programming a Catalog such as this is a daunting and complex task.  However, when used by the end user, it looks like a walk in the park.

Enter CatalogIT.  It is all the above and more. 

Let's say that you have not been able to arrange your designs at all and you have 1,000 of them in one file.  Remember that some items, like alphabets, will have multiples up to 55 - 70 within the file, so it does not take a lot of time to assemble a large number of designs.

Do you really have the time to go through all 1,000 designs and determine where you want them to go?  CatalogIT has a ‘preset' series of possible criteria for your designs.

The good news is that they have spent the time and effort to think through what can be of significant to you.  The bad news is they have spent the time and effort to think through what can be of significant to you.  The problem is that they may or may not think the same way you do. 

To understand my statement, you need to have a little information about a computer term "Properties."  If you have ever right clicked an icon on your pc, you have seen this as an option.  In a nut shell, and very condensed, properties mean the underpinnings of an item.

For instance, in this case you might have a design of a little girl with an umbrella playing in flowers with her puppy.  The ‘tags,' which are often part of the properties, might be:

• Girl
• Little
• Umbrella
• Parasol
• Flowers
• Garden
• Play
• Dog
• Puppy
• And a dozen or more adjectives.

CatalogIT might be using this type of tag to determine that this design belongs in one of their categories.  Possibly they would choose the top most item and your design will be placed into that group.  Therefore, it may be placed in "Children," subcategory "Girl."

So, the good news is that your design will be in someplace logical, but again, not necessarily where you might place it.

Enter again, CatalogIT, and their smart programmers.  They allow you to use your own criteria to set the ‘properties.'  This allows you to use your own method of placing designs where you are most likely to want it to be.  You may still use "Girl," or you may choose something else, like "Family." 

The following are the photos of the process.  You can see the exceptionally good Wizard they have created for you.  Wizards, in computer terms, are mini programs that point you in the right direction to your goal.  You don't have to look everywhere and figure things out for yourself.  The work is done for you!

NOTE:  To activate the Auto Catalog Wizard, choose Design Depot and Select your designs.

This flexibility allows you to create your own database with their tools.  This  is only one example of the thinking that CatalogIT is using to help you keep organized and in control of your thousands of designs.

Be sure that you take a look at this software. 

It is my belief that any art form, such as embroidery is difficult to pin down as to who, when and where it was created and the evolution that follows is the same.  Jacobean is associated with King James I and the time is circa the beginning of the 17th century.

Jacobean is generally associated with crewel workings and often characterized by the fauna, floral and the beauty of forests. 

During the same period, not only tapestry and fine linens were adorned with the Jacobean style, but jackets, both men's and women's were often embellished with it as well.

Willow Leaves are shown on this jacket.

The above are examples of the layout and stitch matrix for a design that was from a bed hanging.

Fast forward to 2010 and the following photos demonstrate the beauty that still captures the essence of Jacobean embroidery.   I have selected a Jacobean design from the Morango Collection which can be purchased singly or as a set.  

I want to show you the beautiful details that are digitized by the professionals at Morango.  You can see some of the detail in the sew out of the design that the branch and the flower are particularly intricate and beautiful.  The finished product is in the first photo.  In the 2nd photo, I worked past the underlay and just tried to show the detail of those stitches.

For me, this is the difference between just digitizing and really professional designs.

Last, but certainly not least, here is my display of my project.  As you may already know, I consider my collection of designs to be as enjoyable as someone who might collect art work or stamps.  My embroidery designs, selected for their beauty are my treasures.  I display my work with my important photos of my family. 

You may recognize this tablecloth from my Dotted Swiss Blog.  Displaying my projects is important to me. 

Information for this blog has been researched from Wikipedia and Project Gutenberg, both of which are considered to Public Domain information and photos.  This author and AnnTheGran assume no responsibility for any errors of a copyright nature. 

If you are interested in viewing the entire Project Gutenberg document, along with the lovely photos, you can see it here.

If you open any decorating magazine, regardless of age, you are going to find some awesome ideas for pillows.  They are embroidered, quilted, bedazzled, fringed and all manner of ideas known to woman (or man. . . ). 

One of the issues, at least for me, is that they are pretty much permanent in their design.  They are made to ‘pop' in a certain design scheme as replaceable, inexpensive accents.  They are tossed, punched and baby ‘cookies' have been deposited upon them.

Well, I decided that I wanted ‘dynamic pillows' that could change when I changed my décor.  I wanted the pillows to be alive with ideas and interests that represented me for the current time and place.  Therefore, I elected to use my beautiful embroidery items to lead the way to something that was really mine. 

The first idea I had was with free standing lace (fsl).  If you have been reading the Forum the past few weeks, there has been a lot of discussion on fsl resizing.  You can see the discussion here. 

My project did not need to be resized, so I created five hearts from the collection by Starbird.  This collection has several different designs that would work in a similar project, and each design is available as a single. 

As I have noted before, I am a big fan of Badgemaster Stabilizer.  It is a little pricey, however, there is a significant amount on this bolt AND, it really is professional quality.  I have never had it fail and frankly, once you try it, you won't use anything else for fsl.  I have used it for many projects, some not even fsl, for two years and still have a lot of it left.   Here it is, standing nearly 5" with a standard roll of stabilizer.  Professional size ad professional quality.

I also use the brayer for making my fsl very flat.  I use the brayer on the wet fsl and it presses the embroidery without losing the delicate texture of the design.  If you have ever ironed a design you know that the heat will cause your embroidery to become much less dimensional.  Part of the beauty of embroidery is the stitch variety of heights as well as widths and depths. 

I created my project by sewing the fsl together and then to the pillow.  I only put a few stitches to tack it down.  These pillows, like their decorator cousins will be for looking, not sleeping.  And since I did the embroidery apart from the pillow, I can change it as often as I like.

Here is another of my projects.  I used a ‘discovery sew,' which you may know as a ‘sew out.'  Either way, the test of the design was just fine and I always wanted a use it somewhere.  So, I created an outline (darker blue) with the ‘frame' selection on my BabyLock and trimmed it with a strand of decorative beads. 

Again, I securely tacked it on to my pillow so that I could use that pillow again for a different look.

Last but not least, I have a light blue pillow that has had a life of adventure and has suffered some spots and stains.  Again, back to my ‘discovery sew' items and found one of the designs from Morango Digitizers and available here at AnnTheGran.  This is part of a great collection but available as a single as well. 

I have used this collection so many times!  It is wonderful for linens and I have always imagined doing a lace skirt for a bride or bridesmaid with one of these great designs.

I can see that I will be redoing these pillows for a long time and enjoying every minute of it.

Then, because I get a little carried away, I did work with a denim tote that I own.  The same process could be used on jeans or other items for a little girl.  I use the Butterfly from the same Starbird designs and a small bow that did not get put away with the Christmas decorations.  The bow has its own 'twist tie' so I can remove it before washing, I think it would not survive the wash.

Gee, so many ideas, so little time!!

Thanks for reading about my ideas, you will have many more.  Please Comment below and tell us all what you did.

A biscornu is an elegant, eight sided ‘pincushion' whose origins have been lost over the centuries.  Biscornu is a French adjective, literally meaning "two horned."  It is also thought to be something that is irregular, a little lopsided.  It is pronounced "biss-core-new."  The actual shape does look a little like a biscuit, but there is no known relationship between those two words.  In some of the better photos, I think there was a ‘horned' appearance.

The biscornu is made from two cross stitched or embroidered squares sewn together.  A corner is attached to the midpoint of the second piece of fabric.  The work is accomplished with a whip stitch and the nearly complete ‘sack' is filled with batting or stuffing.  When complete, the finishing touch is a button sewn tightly between the two pieces of fabric. 

If you are confused, the following photos will make it clearer.  Additionally, as you do a little of the hand work you will see where the project is heading.  During my research on this technique, I found that it was considered to be a ‘beginner' variety of project, so I figured even I could do it.  I do want to state that I have never been good at 'sewing' per se.  These are my adventures, and you may find easier ways to do interesting projects.

I started out with some canvas fabric.  Since the original design was created from crewel style needle work, the canvas seemed to be a good idea.  In fact, that proved to be too stiff to work with and did my second attempt with a soft cotton fabric.  Then, I did discover that it is more difficult to work with a dense design.  Light weight is the secret for this project. 

Here is one from the Net.  They really are chic.

I have completed my project, but either of these would have been a much better selection:

You will want to use a symmetric design with a center of the block side well defined.  These two are available in a set or single design format.  Check it out, Blackwork.

I selected a design from my BabyLock that was symmetrical and I added a frame around it.  I made the sides identical. 

The instructions that I found on the Net most all stated that the edges were to be sewn with a whip stitch.  I guess my hands are not as strong as they once were, so I tried to do a straight stitch face to face.  That was also a bit difficult for me.  I finally came up with a solution.

I tacked down each corner to mid point with a strong thread.  Then I did a second tack mid way between corners. Be sure to do the tack down just to the right and left of the corner point rather than directly on the point.  I hope you can see it in this photo.  I also trimmed back the stabilizer.  At that point, I turned the project on its right side and did those whip stitches.  It was a lot easier for me.  Of course, I left an opening for the batting to be inserted.

The instructions called for filling of scoured wool, but I decided to use batting instead.  That way I could make the corners a bit sharper.  On the top side, the batting square was fitted to the fabric square.  On the bottom side, the batting square was turned to match the bottom square.  I actually used 8 layers for this project, but it would depend on your batting.

The end result is my biscornu - pincushion to the rest of us.  The photo does not do it justice.  It is really very nice.

Raw wool is described as "in the grease," since it was contaminated with dirt, vegetable matter, dung, dander, and lanolin (grease). The processing removed these contaminants and clean and sort the fibers. The overall process reduced 100 lbs of raw wool to 30-35 lbs of final wool product.

Best wishes to you and yours,

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer