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The Avid Embroiderer

September 2008 - Posts

  • The Avid Embroiderer Presents: Candlewicking, September 19, 2008

    Embroidery has always been evolving and creating so many beautiful stitches and it is hard to keep up with all the latest techniques.  One of my personal favorites was always the French Knot.  I remember the first time I did that knot, I thought I had reached the highest level in embroidery.  It was as if I had invented it myself and I was putting them everywhere.

    American embroidery was brought from all over the world, but in the 1700's, techniques were generally from England.  Tone on tone was a popular design, so to have embroidery standout, it had to stand out.  That is, the French Knot was a great way to make the project "pop." 

    The colonists had limited resources and the tariffs from the Old World were a real sore spot, vis-à-vis, the Boston Tea Party.  (Isn't history more interesting when the example relates directly to the people?)  The designs were simple, if you have some example from some distant relative, you know I mean.  Please post a photo in "media" if you do happen to have an early design, we are always interested in those.

    If a woman was in a family where seeking new places was a life style, she found herself in a covered wagon and living in harsh, lonely places.  As is still the case today, the woman mostly made the humble structure a home which she did by embroidery, among other things. 

    Perhaps due to the fact that materials were scarce, she may have changed the French Knot into the Colonial knot.  That is my guess, and I am sticking to it.  This is an example of the Colonial Knot, on the left, and the French Knot (I do need some practice if I am going to do these!) is on the right.

      

    Traditional candlewicking is white on white or cream on cream with the fabric being fine muslin.  The thread is usually thicker such as a pearl cotton or Cordonnet.  Cordonnet is usually a multi-cord mercerized 100% cotton thread used for crochet or tatting.

    Machine Embroidery cannot duplicate the twist of the hand style, so it invented a version of candlewicking which gives designs a 3D effect.  The design I am using is a Bird on Holly circled by candlewicking.  The holly berries are also candlewicking. 

    When I chose a design to demonstrate a stitch, the first consideration is to show the topic.  But, I try to go further to show other things about good design.  In this case, the bird design is extremely well digitized.  For just under $6.00, all the stitching is ‘placed,' meaning that the feathers are laid on top of feathers, like shingles on a roof, beginning at the tail feathers.  So, when you complete the design, there is another element of natural lying of the stitches.  On some designs, the digitizer might choose to do a ‘fill' where the stitches will run the length of the bird, but not in the way the feathers actually grow.  The leaves, branches and holly are all done in the same manner.  Another feature of this design is that the branch, bird and feet are all separate colors, but all listed as "dark brown."  The separation of color allows for three separate dark browns, again making it more natural.  Quality digitizing is a joy to stitch out and make a detail oriented gift. 

    Refresher:  Hoopless Embroidery Blog for hoopless work on a small tote.

    The tiny tote I chose is only 5" by 5" and the design is 3.9" x 3.9."  So, I reduced the design area to 3.5" x 3.5."  My original test sew out was in the original size.  When I compared the two, they were identical except for the size.  Since my area was so tight, I did slow down my machine in case I had a problem.   I did need to use ATG Adhesive, Water Soluble Stabilizer to hold this project, it was perfect for the small area I had to work with.

     

    I am really pleased with the results.  The flash from my camera shows off the sheen from my Polyester threads nicely.

    Money Saving Tip:  When buying thread, colors for flowers and various items can be your own choosing.  However, when it comes to doing animals, birds and other fauna, you will want to have certain browns, golds and greens for a more realistic design.  ATG has a 40% off sale on "Fall Thread Collection." 

      

    This is 25, 1000-meter spools of 40-weight polyester embroidery thread collection for less than $2.50 per spool.  Whether you do a puppy or a whale, you will be reaching for these spools over and over again.  I see kitten in a meadow of daisies in this group of colors right now.

  • The Avid Embroiderer Presents: Trapunto, September 5, 2008

    Embroidery has been a time honored craft for many centuries.  When cloth was first available, the first embellishment was probably some sort of thread design.  The first known examples of embroidery were dated 3000 B.C. and done by men.  The first commercial embroidery machines were invented in the mid 1800’s and caused financial devastation for many hand embroiderers.

     

    Trapunto is one of the many methods of embroidery; the word has two meanings.  In Latin, it means to ‘***’ and in Italian, it means to embroider.  During the 1400’s, embroiderers began to do ‘raised’ work which was stuffed with wool, leather and even wood.  Trapunto is the direct result of these early workings. 

     

    Most often done in a ‘tone on tone’ manner, the following designs are in multiple colors making the Trapunto more visible.  The photos and designs below are courtesy of: M. Deans House of Design.  The artistic designs, in 8.75” by 11” size, have a price tag of $75.00 each.  I was so taken by them that I ordered a Queen Size for a mere $2,500.00 (OK, not really. . . .).  While detail is difficult to view in a photo, the backgrounds and larger unstitched areas are all plumped with batting.  The third photo is courtesy of the Smithsonian Museum.  While the Trapunto appears to be a simple linier design, this jacket sells for $148.  

     

       

    Starting with a top fabric, middle ‘batting’ and backing, Trapunto is done by several different methods:

    ·         The first is to utilize extra batting in selected areas for a simple raised effect.  Often the design is a flower, leaves or feathers but anything can be made as Trapunto.

    ·         The second method would be to use a pointed, blunt object such as a toothpick and gently move the fabric threads to the side creating a small opening which can be stuffed and manipulated closed.

    ·         The last method would be accomplished by cutting a small slit in the back of the fabric, stuffing and use of a whipstitch to close the slit.

    In each event, the design can be as simple as a circle or complex as a kaleidoscope style design.  Your imagination is your best guide.  Regardless of method, if a shear fabric is used as the topping, the design may be referred to as “Shadow Trapunto” because the stuffing is more visible.  Shadow style can be filled with color threads for an interesting effect.

    With the invention of water soluble threads, Trapunto gained another method.  Using a standard bobbin thread, the (turtle) design is sewn with the soluble thread.  In the design shown, only the outside details were stitched with standard thread.  After removing the soluble thread with a spray of water, the fabric shrank a small amount creating a softer, fuller design.

     

    Design courtesy of Debora Konchinsky, Critter Pattern Works

    For my project, I decided to work with standard thread and I created a design for my favorite t-shirt.  I chose a medium blue thread so that it would stand out and am using the ATG Trapunto Hearts Design Pack.  I selected my design from that pack.  I made a single adjustment and downsized it to 4.5” from the 5.0” in the pack.

     

    My “test sew out” had been done with a single layer of medium batting.  I felt it was insufficiently padded and for my sew out, I added a second layer of batting. 

    • Since the layers were so thick, I only hooped my Badgemaster stabilizer. 
    • The shirt was attached to ATG’s Water Soluble Adhesive Stabilizer. 
    • I divided my shirt into quarters and tied up the sleeves and back with some left over ribbon, this helps to keep foreign parts away from the needle. 
    • I then assembled my shirt with two layers of batting and placed them together in the machine. 
    • If you read my blogs regularly, you know that I believe there is no way to “over” stabilize a project but certainly an item can be “under” stabilized.  So, I placed a basting stitch around the design.

    The trick of the basting stitch is to remember that it will be last in the order of sewing.  The reason is that you place your design in to your machine first and add the ‘baste’ and adjust it to be a little larger than the design.  So, be sure to remember to baste first, a reverse of the stitch out.

    (Refresher:  Basting is accomplished by using the “frame” feature on your machine and the ‘single’– non decorative – stitching in your frame section.)

      

    As you can see, the basting stitch did go astray on the left side.  The adhesive stabilizer is in place correctly, but the batting caused some movement.  To fix that, I clipped the thread in that area as seen in the 2nd photo.  I did have to keep the area manually adjusted somewhat because of the loft of the batting. 

     

    After the stitching is complete and before removing my project from the hoop, I always view the underside of my design.  I do this for several reasons, one of which is to remove the ‘jump’ stitches.  Removing the bottom jump stitches makes the front jump stitches easier to remove and less likely to cause damaged during removal. 

    I love my new t-shirt and hope you find a project to do that will please you as well.  Your project is not only unusual but also part of a rich and creative history in embroidery

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