June 2008 - Posts

• The Avid Embroiderer Presents: Things I Wish I Knew When I Began Machine Embroiderery, June 20, 2008

  I have been embroidering for just over 7 years.  I was generally self-taught and I started without a clue about machine embroidery (ME) at all.  Over that period of time, I have been learning by trial and error (make that trial and frustration).  During the past year, I have been fortunate to meet a good instructor whose group that meets regularly in my area.  I have been able to learn correct methods of embroidery; and, have had to unlearn some bad habits.   These are my thoughts on things I wish I had known when I started.  I am sure you will recognize some and have a few of your own.  Please share your thoughts too and we will smile at the naiveté we once had.   LEGEND: A)     TOPIC/CATEGORY 1)      My original thinking a)      The reality of beautiful machine embroidery   A)     INVESTMENT: 1)      My machine was the investment a)      Just like any artistic craft, the initial, major investment will be central to the craft.  b)      Multiple appropriate tools will be required for truly professional and artistically beautiful results. c)       A cigar is just a cigar, but the right pair of scissors is worth its weight in gold.  Keep them in the family vault, behind yellow police tape. d)      Some of those tools will be priced higher than I want to pay.  I must consider the specific benefits, my time and frustration into the equation. e)      A ‘deal’ is only a ‘deal’ if the quality remains high. 2)      I am computer savvy (taught software for 5 years) I can make a program to organize my designs a)      After all the hours I put into this, I still don’t have a picture, size and other important information for my designs. b)      Good and simple software for ME was hard for me to find.  Catalog Express is ME specific and insightfully user friendly.  Everything I need to have is at my fingertips.   (I would never recommend any item I deemed to be second class.) B)      MATERIALS: 1)      I have thread, needles and stabilizers already a)      Specialized materials are necessary to achieve desired results.  b)      Not only did those old materials not measure up, they would damage my equipment and cause me frustration. c)       New and more inventive materials are being developed constantly. 2)      Joe’s Thread and Used Tires has a great deal a)      A quality thread in ‘best seller’ colors is a true bargain. b)      Quality thread often comes in exceptional storage containers helping us stay/get organized. [Photo below courtesy of Madeira] (ATG carries the Thread Treasure Chest in White or Teak) c)       I personally purchase here at ATG because quality is of utmost importance to me. C)      Learning Curve: 1)      I can learn from a few lessons and the book provided by the manufacturer a)      The book only shows the technical aspects of the machine. b)      Lessons were actually inadequate from my dealer.  (1)    I would be learning with every project. (2)    I ask questions and answer some others as well. (3)    I discuss and listen to experiences from users worldwide. (4)    There is always some new technique to learn. (5)    I keep notes on my computer (and use “favorites” at ATG-mark by clicking on "Favorites" in upper right corner of post, retrieve through your profile) on forum discussions, sites, lessons learned and possible resources, etc. 2)      I can figure this stuff out, I have been sewing since I was 12, I will just work through any issue. I got "A's" in Home Economics. a)      Computers and their associated items have traditionally become obsolete in a brief period of time, and ME has the very same time frame. b)      Innovations are coming available all the time. c)       Keeping up to date will be an unending journey. d)      Learning keeps us young. D)     Alphabets versus Fonts: 1)      They sounded the same, so I bought Alphabets only a)      Monogramming is only a single facet of ME. b)      Placing words or phrases requires a ‘keyboard’ style of fonts.  Alphabet Xpress is very easy and versatile in this function. c)       Monogram and words need to be in a large variety of styles and sizes. d)      Professionally designed monograms come in so many motifs such as floral, bridal, sports to name just a few.  I don’t need to reinvent the wheel. E)      Machine Embroidery’s Place in my life: 1)      I sure hope I get enough usage of this machine because it was so expensive! a)      ME is an addiction which I am delighted to have. b)      ME has a uplifting and honorable place in my life. c)       ME is a joy.  I cannot draw a straight line, but I can create a lovely keepsake for each of my grandchildren. 2)      This is going to take over my life and I will become a recluse- a)      I am so thrilled to have found so many new friends with which I have so much in common.  b)      There are so many thoughtful and caring people who make my life even more fulfilled.  c)       There are wonderful people in the ME community who make me laugh, cry and make me jump up and down with pure joy.   I suppose that few if any of us researched, prior to purchase, what ME really requires.  In the earlier days, where would we have found information anyway?  I think many of us saw a machine sewing away, got excited and the purchase was a forgone conclusion.  Computers have turned the world of embroidery delightfully upside down.    Excitement is what this craft is all about, catch it!!   Next time, Needles Make Things Happen.   Posted Jun 20 2008, 03:20 PM by pat71896 with 27 comment(s) Filed under: embroidery designs, The Avid Embroiderer, catalog xpress, madeira thread treasure chest, tips for new embroiderers, organizing designs, alphabet xpress, machine embroidery

• The Avid Embroiderer Presents "Hooping and Hoopless Embroidery" June 6, 2008

  Hooping 101   Initially, I thought I might be able to discuss hooping in a single blog.  After discussion with others and considering what hooping entails, hooping will be a series.  I hope to share my experiences and what I have learned from some very accomplished ME people.  Your thoughts and input is also encouraged and welcome for all my blogs.   Let’s start with some specifics about hooping with which we might all agree:   Always use the smallest hoop which will accommodate your project  A flat, sturdy space larger than your hoop is required to complete hooping  Make sure your hoop is free of any glues or other debris  Replace a hoop which is damaged in any way  Check and mark the grain of your fabric before hooping  Utilize hooping aids such as double faced tapes made specifically for sewing   Not all projects can successfully be hooped   Not all projects need to be hooped  Together with stabilizers, the hoop is equally important to prevent poor registration of a design.  I can remember my initial attempts at doing FSL with similar results to my photo.  My disappointment stemmed from the fact that I was 95% done with my project before I could see that it failed.  The reality is that it failed much earlier, but it was not very visible.  Of course it is always possible that the digitizing has some variance, but that was not the case for me. Frequently, there is more than one way to accomplish any goal.  Different methods are neither right nor wrong, just different.  I personally have hand issues and hooping can be difficult for me.  For fabrics which are heavy, slippery or in other multiple ways, difficult to handle, I use a hoopless method. Hoopless sewing is not for all projects.  Once again, a ‘Test Sew Out’ will be your best guide.   This photo is a simple method of hoopless.  I was embroidering on a small tote that was difficult to hoop because of the size and the seams involved.      In this case, I simply hooped some tear away stabilizer and attached it to my machine.  I placed my fabric on top of the stabilizer which had 4 pieces of a product such as “Wonder Tape.”  I then sewed a basting stitch around the area where the design would reside.  You may also notice that I have clamped the sides to keep them from getting into the design.  This simple method would work for stable fabrics such as denim and woven fabrics.  It is a little less expensive because I am not using my adhesive stabilizer.        The next hoopless option is for t-shirts, slippery and/or stretch fabrics.   I won’t discuss the stabilizing because we covered that on my last blog.  I did, however, start with hooping an adhesive stabilizer.  While this stabilizer has grid lines on it, the grid lines                    will be cut away before I place my fabric.  I will be doing my own grid line for placement. The pins are only secured in the top fabric.  My objective is to have a stable fabric where I will accurately place my design.  Next, I will be combining my fabric and stabilizer.  The hoop is also given a grid line.                   After lining up my grid lines, I have finger pressed my fabric to the stabilizer.  I then place a medium weight, water soluble sheet on top.  Basting is not required here.  I might add basting and/or stabilizers if there is an opportunity to make the whole project stronger.  In this case, I feel it has reached its stability.  I also have placed a ‘no-show mesh’ under the hoop, just as I would have done if I had hooped the project.    Once you do a hoopless project, you just may be hooked.  I know that I am.  I only use hooping when necessary and that is not too often.  Fabrics like silk can get a ‘burn’ from the hoop and towels and heavy fabrics can be damaged.   Bonus:  Before you do your next project, I recommend that you take your largest hoop and place it on a flat surface.  Release the tension screw and notice that the gaps are not perfectly even.  Increase the tension a few turns at a time and notice that your hoop is compressing, but not necessarily evenly.  All hoops will have some variance and it will be helpful for you to know where those gaps might occur in a regular project.   If you have a lot of gaps when your screw is reasonably tight, you could utilize a gripper like is used in cupboards to keep dishes from slipping.  It is not expensive and sold in rolls.  If you need something like this, be sure to cut the gripping in strips and use them on opposite sides for balance of tension.     And lastly, by special request, I was asked how often should you change your needle?  There are a dozen answers for this one as well.   Some ME enthusiasts say "when it starts to sound different;" others "at each new design:" another says "after a certain number of stitches:" etc.  I change my needles partly based on my design and partly on number of stitches.  If my design has a lot of details, I definitely change the needle.  I do check the number of stitches I have done since my last change and try not to exceed 150,000 stitches, and less if my needles are cheap.   There are more ways to think of needles, but I buy them by the 100 pack and they are very inexpensive that way, some as little as 15 or 20 cents each.  Not really worth keeping in my mind.  I had a needle break and make a significant gash in my machine plate so I don't hold on to a used one.   Next time I will be discussing things I wish I had known before I began ME.  That is a really long but manageable list.  If you want to put something in that list, please contact me through my profile.  Thanks for stopping by, Pat   Posted Jun 05 2008, 03:18 PM by pat71896 with 52 comment(s) Filed under: embroidery designs, stabilizers, avid embroiderer, hoopless, needles, hooping, The Avid Embroiderer, machine embroidery